Clone clutch

I call it "stall", when you hold the brakes and floor it, whatever the engine is turning is the stall RPM. I hope you have a tachometer! You want that RPM number to be right at peak torque. The best way to find that "stall RPM" is on a dyno, otherwise just ask around.

Many times I've told people, people without a dyno, or access to one, use the old bathroom scale trick. Put the scale between a strong wall and the front of your kart. Getting the kart start delete that. Get in the kart, warm it up, floor it! Note the RPM and the scale reading. It only takes a second or two. Make an adjustment on your clutch, try it again. Keep doing that until you get the highest reading on the scale.
 
ChuckZZ,

My recommendation would be to get feedback from the people running the same setup you are. Slipping a clutch at "peak torque" or highest bathroom scale reading may very well provide information on what gives the most "force" at a standstill, but a stopwatch at the track will give a truer picture. in my experience, the fastest way around the track is a combination of an almost unlimited number of items, and doing some track testing on your own after you get a starting point from other racers will be a better approach, IMO.

PM
 
we run a tight non momentum track so I always tend to go on the lighter side for a quicker engagement... I usually run mine 3,400-3,500 now.
 
we run a tight non momentum track so I always tend to go on the lighter side for a quicker engagement... I usually run mine 3,400-3,500 now.
I'm a little curious, momentum, can you give me your definition of what that means? I'm beginning to think that my interpretation of the word is little different from yours.
 
Let me ask you a question, have you ever tested, on the stand, trying to determine where the clutch is stalling? Can anybody explain to me why that is different from putting a scale in front of your kart and doing the same thing?

Apparently, everybody seems to be afraid that they're going to burn up the clutch if they use the scale against a strong wall method of testing the clutch. I don't see where the difference is! We used the "on the stand" method all the time. There were times when we had to go from a 3 hole can to a pipe. We had to change the engagement RPM of the clutch. Never had any trouble whatsoever. I see no difference between doing it on the stand and doing it with a scale in front of the kart. What's that, you fear burning your fingers on the hot clutch? Then you're not doing it right!!
 
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Another thing; I don't see the connection between finding the right stall RPM and what you do the rest of the time you're on the track. Where's the connection? Finding the right stall speed for your clutch isn't going to help you get through the turns any faster.
 
Let me ask you a question, have you ever tested, on the stand, trying to determine where the clutch is stalling? Can anybody explain to me why that is different from putting a scale in front of your kart and doing the same thing?

Apparently, everybody seems to be afraid that they're going to burn up the clutch if they use the scale against a strong wall method of testing the clutch. I don't see where the difference is! We used the "on the stand" method all the time. There were times when we had to go from a 3 hole can to a pipe. We had to change the engagement RPM of the clutch. Never had any trouble whatsoever. I see no difference between doing it on the stand and doing it with a scale in front of the kart. What's that, you fear burning your fingers on the hot clutch? Then you're not doing it right!!

Al, maybe your not aware... these clutches don't slip like the junk you had when you raced many years ago. Stall checking them is a real good way to spit the flywheel off a clone if your not careful.
 
Small track. maybe 1/8 mile, adult big pipe, Bully
There are so many variables that go into your optimum setting . Things such as if your on and off the gas alot , total kart weight , track condition , is there alot of cautions at this track , and the list goes on and on . Adjusting it to where you like it , and it works best for you is the way to go . I like 3500 to 3650 , but thats not saying thats best for you .
 
Al, maybe your not aware... these clutches don't slip like the junk you had when you raced many years ago. Stall checking them is a real good way to spit the flywheel off a clone if your not careful.
I suppose you could use the word "junk" to describe that old stuff. Most everything, karting related, from that age, could be called junk when/if compared to todays stuff.

What time are you speaking of? I raced for about 20 years, followed by 20 years of active participation and then some. How long have you been in karting? I'm getting close to 55 years.
 
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