Box Stock

Clone piston rings low tension

N

New Racer

Member
Ok so i rebuilt a honda clone been honed. standard rod, piston and rings low tension with .005 top ring. Im gettin some oil at top of cylinder i used my amsoil 5w20 dominator oil for break in instead of a thicker oil. I hear diesel oil is good for breaking in motors. I did put it under a load and gettin blue smoke now .im pretty sure cylinder isnt out of round. Any suggestions or tips i could possibly fix or check? Should i drain the amsoil out and put the thicker oil in to get the rings to seat? Because im sure thats the problem is they arent seating thanks.
 
The first clone I ever built I put a 600 grit finish on it. .005 top .010 2nd and oils low tension and ran amsoil 4T in it. It took street laps and a full race day to get it to quit killing skeeters. Sometimes those rings take a bit to scuff in. Are you using synthetic oil? Are you sure the ring was put on so it scrapes.... it’s not a flat face ring?
 
OVALTECH1 said:
The first clone I ever built I put a 600 grit finish on it. .005 top .010 2nd and oils low tension and ran amsoil 4T in it. It took street laps and a full race day to get it to quit killing skeeters. Sometimes those rings take a bit to scuff in. Are you using synthetic oil? Are you sure the ring was put on so it scrapes.... it’s not a flat face ring?
Click to expand...
its a set of dynocams low tension rings and the letters are up I filed fit the top to .004 if this helps and yea I used the dominator5w20 amsoil for the break in same as I use to race with. Also I used a flex hone 320 grit. Yea its synthetic oil.
 
Last edited:
With a 320 grit finish if it’s nice and round you certainly shouldn’t have any problem getting that to fuzz material off the rings. May just be a combination of low tension rings and the synthetic oil. Tape it up get some heat in it and go kick it’s a$$. It will seal up.
 
OVALTECH1 said:
With a 320 grit finish if it’s nice and round you certainly shouldn’t have any problem getting that to fuzz material off the rings. May just be a combination of low tension rings and the synthetic oil. Tape it up get some heat in it and go kick it’s a$$. It will seal up.
Click to expand...
Will do thanks my friend.
 
Renegade said:
Run into this a few times, Re-hone the cylinder and put in a new ring set. Some times the oil rings will slip past the expander and stick. Nothing but a new oil ring set will fix it.
Click to expand...
thanks I will keep this in mind I got another thing im gonna try if it don't work then sounds like a plan. Thanks for the feed back.
 
DynoDon said:
I thought i was the only guy with problems with the dyno loose fit rings. To the point where i quit trying. To much time and money lost on a customers engine. Engine lasts longer with tighter rings. JMO
Click to expand...
Exactly, I've yet to see the benefits of poor seal, loss of compression and oil burning for that .0002% more HP. No thanks, I'll continue to use regular rings and keep that cylinder sealed up also!
 
I only use the low tension in the top ring and the standard rings for the rest , all file fitted . Never had a problem yet . I break the engine in with the oil I use all the time . IMO , if you want to wipe out a crank real fast , the thicker oil will do it . I break them in on the track .
 
Last edited:
1fasttiller said:
Exactly, I've yet to see the benefits of poor seal, loss of compression and oil burning for that .0002% more HP. No thanks, I'll continue to use regular rings and keep that cylinder sealed up also!
Click to expand...
Im far from a motor builder this has been my corona virus project and thanks to all thats responded but yea i agree with you on the rings id rather use regular rings and have to fight with rings not seating up but today i worked on the motor some more and seems like they are seating up i will find out more tomorrow when i go practice with it.
 
*Update on the motor ran it this past Saturday got the rings seated only down fall was my intake valve side rocker came loose because I didn't have lash set right. gonna work on it this week sometime. Saw how ARC does in his videos makes it look easy hopefully I get mine right this time.
 
sundog said:
I would think to use a regular ring in the top and low tension for the rest. Why do you do the opposite?
Click to expand...
i used .005 over top ring and rest of the rings low tension. but part of my problem was takes little bit longer to seat rings with regular racing oil then break in oil. i maybe wrong but most builders now use low tension to get that tad bit more power is it worth sometimes not but the most will tell you probably yeah JMO.
 
They say that synthetic oil myth isn't true anymore but I still break all my engines in on Straight HD30 weight conventional oil. I believe syn oils protect better and provide better friction reduction, so it would have to impact the ring seating and the wear when breaking in.
 
I used to break in with non detergent oil, then flush engine. Now, I break in with the same synthetic oil we race with. Using hydraulic dyno for load, haven’t had any issues with them sealing up. I always use the dynocams low tension rings in clones
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top