Box Stock

Clone temperature

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bullerman

Member
Going to run unrestricted Clone this year. Haven't seen much about cylinder head temperature. What should I look for. Didn't know if running on gas what to look for. Any suggestions.
 
Our findings is that like the old days of Briggs Flatheads we wanted to generate heat to properly burn the Methanol.. Todays gas does not require the heat.. If I am running 325 F temp and running good,, trying to reach 400 F in most every case will not get you more speed... And if you are trying to tune your clone using a good set up carb theres no help there,, its very normal the plug will be smutty black,, if I find the plug has that tan color then my carb is partially stopped up and not up to power..

I am with the others that said 450 MAX
 
bullerman said:
Going to run unrestricted Clone this year. Haven't seen much about cylinder head temperature. What should I look for. Didn't know if running on gas what to look for. Any suggestions.
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's been my experience, racing 2 cycles, that the cylinder head temperature gauge (CHT) tells you very little. My preference is the exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT). The EGT tells you what's going on in the cylinder, not in the plug. That EGT is also much quicker, there's very little delay in its readings, unlike the CHT.
In my opinion, heat is power and the more you get the faster you go. There is a limit. If the mixture gets too lean, and the temperature gets too high, you get detonation. When you get detonation, the EGT temperature will go down, your first clue that you're too lean. It takes a little getting used to, but it is well worth the effort.
 
Dover Power said:
Our findings is that like the old days of Briggs Flatheads we wanted to generate heat to properly burn the Methanol.. Todays gas does not require the heat.. If I am running 325 F temp and running good,, trying to reach 400 F in most every case will not get you more speed... And if you are trying to tune your clone using a good set up carb theres no help there,, its very normal the plug will be smutty black,, if I find the plug has that tan color then my carb is partially stopped up and not up to power..

I am with the others that said 450 MAX
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Plate motors same temp range?
 
Plate engines:
You should see head temps between 350° to 425°F. This depends on several things and obviously ambient temp is one of them. A properly setup kart geared tall on a big momentum track with a driver that can flat-foot it will create higher head temps. This is the ideal we all try to chase. If you cant achieve this for any reason, then IMO head temp doesn't tell you much.

A tight kart will create higher head temps. Lots of on/off throttle will create lower temps. Tracks with big drops (over 1000rpm) usually create lower head temps. Dragging brakes, a rubbing tire or a binding axle will create higher head temps.
 
I bolted on a freshly rebuilt clone for a fall race. The motor was fully taped up. My tech died about 3/4 of the way through the race but at times I saw it reading 448 degrees head temp. Should I be pulling the piston to check for scoring??
 
There was one builder that I was told , that wanted his motors in the 450 to 500 range . I saw a couple in that range , and they were up front runners , but I have only gotten 1 up to 460 ever , and that was on a a kart that I let my 300# brother race , that had out of whack setup issues .
 
I had a fresh one get near 460 once... we pulled it off the track I pulled the plug and wd40’d it and ran the rip cord a few times and everything felt ok. Drained the oil while it was warm and refilled it. Went up 2 jet sizes and it was ok after that. Still winning features to this day so I wouldn’t get to worried.
 
I was considering buying a clone from a guy that I know and he was telling me about the motor, and he said they run straight 87 gas from a gas station and that the motor likes that fuel better. He said the motor doesnt get as hot and it runs better than if they have premium in them. And they even messed with jetting to see if they would run better but they claimed it just likes the cheap gas better. Is that true for anyone on this forum?
 
The oil companies would like you to think that more octane means more power, but it doesn't, trust me.

More compression produces more power. Downside is; more compression requires higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. Detonation kills horsepower, big time. In an engine that doesn't require high-octane, increasing the octane decreases the power. Octane is only a measure of the fuel's ability to resist detonation, it doesn't, by itself, make more horsepower.
 
MO Predator Racer said:
I was considering buying a clone from a guy that I know and he was telling me about the motor, and he said they run straight 87 gas from a gas station and that the motor likes that fuel better. He said the motor doesnt get as hot and it runs better than if they have premium in them. And they even messed with jetting to see if they would run better but they claimed it just likes the cheap gas better. Is that true for anyone on this forum?
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87 octane with ethanol is the only legal fuel for AKRA & NKA
 
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