Clutches

496 BB

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Well since old Bobs is gone I dont have a reference now to my old thread on what clutches suited my needs. So here we go again.

I have (will have) an open clone meaning no rules for our backyard track. Will have big bore, aftermarket head with big valves and nice cam blah blah blah. Have a Stinger now and hate it. Too much up keep during a race and every weekend. Im a bigger fella and want something that is easier to maintain and something that performs ALL thru a long race (50+ laps). Track is super small (bullring style) with off and on gas and brake thruout. Wanting a disc setup this go around unless you can convince me otherwise. Just dont know if 2 or 3 disc is what I need. If you have one for sale PM me.

Thoughts? I want to be able to dial in rpm range easily.
 
Bully clutches are and will always be my favorite and can take plenty of abbuse. Two disc six spring will get the job done but I'd go on and get the three disc for your build just my opinion.
 
Well since old Bobs is gone I dont have a reference now to my old thread on what clutches suited my needs. So here we go again.

I have (will have) an open clone meaning no rules for our backyard track. Will have big bore, aftermarket head with big valves and nice cam blah blah blah. Have a Stinger now and hate it. Too much up keep during a race and every weekend. Im a bigger fella and want something that is easier to maintain and something that performs ALL thru a long race (50+ laps). Track is super small (bullring style) with off and on gas and brake thruout. Wanting a disc setup this go around unless you can convince me otherwise. Just dont know if 2 or 3 disc is what I need. If you have one for sale PM me.

Thoughts? I want to be able to dial in rpm range easily.

you have pm
 
if you need 11 or smaller you need to go with a jackshaft. I have not seen any 11 tooth with roller bearing.
when we ran 11 tooth we typically had an 80 on for the bull ring. it did hit the dirt some.
a custom set up with the sprocket out side the chassis next to the tire could work.
also have seen 2-1 reducer that mounts to engine keeping everything on left side.
 
looks pretty good . parts avalibility at track will be slim . if you need 9-10 probably the way to go.
sure wish they had a pic of the 9 tooth thats gotta be a small bearing.
 
Well just seen that SMC has new drivers out. Looks pretty cool and can get all way down to a 9 with SEALED roller bearings.

http://www.kartclutches.com/Products/smc-sprockets-about.html

This may be a deciding factor cause I HATE those bushing types like Ive had on the Stinger.
Keep in mind that the 9 and 10 use a right hand thread basket since they mount outboard like other 'arena' clutches. Inboard mounting uses lefthand thread baskets and drivers.
 
Keep in mind that the 9 and 10 use a right hand thread basket since they mount outboard like other 'arena' clutches. Inboard mounting uses lefthand thread baskets and drivers.
Explain this more. Im a noob on clutches. Do you loose power running outboard? Can I use a 219 driver?
 
no you don't loose power it simply moves the chain to outside of the crank, which puts more strain on it. also means you have to have a basket for the other gear sizes. maybe even an adapter piece better talk to smc or one of there dealers. I have seen flathead cranks broke off running outboard. clone may be better still a concern.
 
Whats your thoughts about setup with bully clutches on clones vs. flatheads? Same engagement?

Flathead usually requires about 500-600 more rpm higher engagement because they make their power at a higher rpm, and turn more rpms as well. Depends on the class you are talking about using the flathead in, stock, limited or is it an open?
 
I would not change anything for a big pipe clone to a flathead. Engagement should be around 3900 on both. Maybe 100 earlier on clone but that's it
 
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