clutches

JRW31526

Member
after the new year i planned to completely re build my gx200 and was wondering, which clutch would be better for the money?

their are two clutches i am looking at, a max torque bsp clutch the 54$ one you can get from arc, or a hillard fury, is the clutch from hillard noticeably different performance wise? is it worth paying the extra 30$ for,

extra info,
genuine gx200
weisco piston std boar
arc rod
genuine honda crank
360 cam
billet fw 32* timing
tilly 304 alky
28.5/25mm valves
dual springs
head shaved .040
fire ring head gasket
raceseng cylinder head stud kit
champion rockers
 

W5R

New member
Definately go with the hilliard clutch, you can get the fury or the flame for close to the same price from Holeshot Clutches on here, Ryan Thompson. The hilliard also has a Bully conversion drum available for it that will allow you to use bully drivers with it if you already have some of those. I started out with a max torque like your talking about, and after switching to the fury, i would never even think about going back to max torque. The fury has more adjustability to it and is easier to maintain and rebuild than the max torque also. When it wears out, which would be a year or 2 at least, you could just order new shoes and springs for it and have a brand new clutch for around $25-35, but most just buy a new complete clutch rather than rebuild them. They are hard to beat for the money you spend.

I believe Ryan sells the fury for $50 and the flame for $60, blueprinted and set up for the class and rpm you want it to engage at. But to be honest with you, with the mods you have done to your engine, you would get alot more performance out of it if you went with a disc clutch instead of a shoe clutch. I have never seen anyone use a shoe clutch on modified engines like yours, only on stock class engines. Some even run disc clutches on stock class engines.
 

alvin l nunley

Site Supporter
Number one is reliability!!! I haven't heard anything mentioned about any of the clutches on your list being unreliable. Ease of adjustment would be high on my list. You want that clutch to hold the engine at peak torque on the starts! Ideally, it would do that for a whole day of racing. Maybe for the whole month, maybe for the whole year. Hoping that your clutch will perform ideally for two years is really unrealistic. Even one year seems a bit unrealistic.
For me, if the clutch works right when I first hit the track, and stays that way till the end of the day, I'm gonna be happy. But if it doesn't, that's where ease of adjustment comes in handy.
Comments compliments criticisms and question always welcome.
 

sCREamnClones

New member
after the new year i planned to completely re build my gx200 and was wondering, which clutch would be better for the money?

their are two clutches i am looking at, a max torque bsp clutch the 54$ one you can get from arc, or a hillard fury, is the clutch from hillard noticeably different performance wise? is it worth paying the extra 30$ for,

extra info,
genuine gx200
weisco piston std boar
arc rod
genuine honda crank
360 cam
billet fw 32* timing
tilly 304 alky
28.5/25mm valves
dual springs
head shaved .040
fire ring head gasket
raceseng cylinder head stud kit
champion rockers
It doesn't look like you've skimped on the motor, so why sud you skimp on the clutch? One is ONLY as good as the other! The Hilliard 'Flame' is the way too go and the Best-bang-4the-buck!! We have transmission customers that spend 40-50K on race engines and then p****** & moaned about 5-6K tranny's.....until they 'wised-up'! (ie: 15% on a $1000 motor gives you abt $150 allowance for a clutch) Disc clutches are a whole different world and most are over-priced. JMO
 

alvin l nunley

Site Supporter
Disc clutches are a whole different world and most are over-priced. JMO
Good post, good information!
I would only disagree with this last part.
I have this idea that the profit margins in disk clutches are pretty slim. If I were making clutches and I could make a disk clutch as good as anybody, and price it lower, with a decent profit margin, I would rule the disc clutch market.
I’m pretty sure everybody would agree with the idea that competition brings down the price of things. The fact that prices on disc clutch have remained pretty competitive tends to support my theory.
“Build a better mouse trap and the world will beat a path to your door”, is an old American saying, but sell it cheaper, and you’ll find that path getting a lot wider.

Comments, compliments, criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
 

Dover Power

Member
I say NEITHER.. The 2 clutches you mentioned is for basically stock class engines..
The Inferno is a great clutch but you can not make it slip enough for such a engine.
Now the Max Torque,, same as above BUT it can be fixed to make it slip enough.. If you don't mine destroying it for fuer stock class use.. >> on the back of clutch weld evey other shoe to the black carrier... You mentioned ARC,, I think you make be looking at heir Mongul.. Never seen one and what I just wrote may not apply..

Best thing to do is buy a Premire NorAm clutch,, get lite shoes and green springs.. Thats approx 4200 slip
 

JRW31526

Member
yeah and it sucks cause im straped for cash, all my funds went into the motor, well i guess ill see how the fury holds up
 

W5R

New member
I would spend the few extra bucks and get the flame, you can get them to slip at a little higher RPM than a fury. Pm me if you would be interested in a disc clutch, i have one that is basically a spare that i can sell you, it is basically new with only 5 races on it. Its a Horstman X5, they are $150 to 200 new depending where you look. Ill give you a good deal on it to help you out since it is basically exactly what you need, rather than a shoe clutch. Your engine is overkill for a shoe clutch, like Dover Power said above.
 

JRW31526

Member
i would have the budget for a disc clutch if i trusted the stock honda piston, jared from kart blog had almost the same set up as me and rad a honda piston but i dont trust it, i only have 1200 to spend on this motor, already have the block and crank, but it comes out to be too much if i buy a disc clutch, i have to buy methanol oil, ect... it seems like a powerful set up, and i want to build it my self for the experience
 

Dover Power

Member
You should be able to buy the Noram I spec'ed out as cheap as the Inferno clutch and it will hold up.
The Inferno isn't mafe fo what you plan on running..
 

Hawkeye79

Member
You should be able to buy the Noram I spec'ed out as cheap as the Inferno clutch and it will hold up.
The Inferno isn't mafe fo what you plan on running..

Advice from a very well known engine builder that has been doing this for a long time. I know what I'd buy! :)

PS. Not implying anybody else's advice is wrong.
 
I say NEITHER.. The 2 clutches you mentioned is for basically stock class engines..
The Inferno is a great clutch but you can not make it slip enough for such a engine.
Now the Max Torque,, same as above BUT it can be fixed to make it slip enough.. If you don't mine destroying it for fuer stock class use.. >> on the back of clutch weld evey other shoe to the black carrier... You mentioned ARC,, I think you make be looking at heir Mongul.. Never seen one and what I just wrote may not apply..

Best thing to do is buy a Premire NorAm clutch,, get lite shoes and green springs.. Thats approx 4200 slip
I agree Jerry, that what I use on my SA and modified clones. I run with and out run guys with dis clutches that cost twice as much as my premier magnum clutch. I clean and lube after each race day.
 
I run Norams as well, with great results. I have ran Hillards, max torques too though. I will be trying a Noram on my RWYB this year (or S/A if they have the class).
 

W5R

New member
He cannot afford a disc clutch right now. JRW, i would take Jerry Dovers advice if i were you, the man knows what he is talking about
 

JRW31526

Member
okay thanks for the help, looks like noarm is a durable clutch and the magnum is reasonable price, and sounds like it will hold up better than the max torque/ hillard, i was also looking at the mongrel from arc, i have not seen one of these on youtube or anything, they look and sound like good clutches, but the slip is set to low, out of these three clutches which would be best for my set up,

the mongrel by arc
the "magnum" by premier
or hillards fury,

running around 1/2 mile square ish track, long straights, asphalt running a 53t rear gear, hoping to run a 18t front gear, i can get a 18t sprocket for hillard and arcs clutches but i cant seem to find the 18t sprocket for the magnum
 

W5R

New member
You would be best off as jerry said, with the noram/magnum. They are basically the same exact clutch just made by different companys. Noram makes the GE clutch which is basically same as Premier's Magnum, with slight differences. Both have springs you can change out to adjust them, sort of like the fury and flame from hilliard but there is alot more adjustability with the Noram/Premier clutch since there are more variety of springs available from those. You can also set how you want it to engage, either smooth/gradual or quick/hard. Either one will work for what your wanting to do. I originally said go with a flame or fury, but what jerry said made alot more sense for your application. Hilliards are more for stock class racing than modified engines.
 
Top