Coke syrup setup help


New member
I'm running an older straight rail coyote bullit. I have a great dirt setup for it. But I'm going to run an indoor series this winter and I'm looking for some input on how to get it to handle on coke syrup. If anyone has any info I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Well, its gonna be tough but lets see if we can get you in the right direction. You are going to need as much left side weight as humanly possible. 60%+ is what you are going to need to shoot for. Even with my offset coyote assassin I was at 57-61% on the syrup. The other thing you can do is try to run as much cross as possible until it starts to push. Start off with what you have been running and keep throwing more at it. If you havent already, have you tried moving the left wheels way in and the right side way out, offsetting the track front and back? Lots of stagger too. if you can get 1.5 to 2in in the back I don't think that will be way out of line. If you can find them, Coyote might have made lower degree spindles. I think the old bullets had 15 or 12 degree spindles. If you can make a 10 or an 8 degree spindle fit on the LF it wont transfer as hard and it wont two wheel as quickly. Hopefully this will help keep you from two wheeling as the grip picks up. I am sure smarter people than me can give you better help. Go get em!
I appreciate the response. I'm going to throw it on the scales Friday morning. Just trying to get a staring point for my percentages. Left wheels are as tight to the frame as I can get them. Right side is out 2" from where I had them. Seat as far forward as it'll go and of course right on the edge of the left frame rail. Currently running 2 1/8 front stagger and 3" in the rear, Prepped with fts black bite. They are letting us run hot laps all day Friday and Saturday is race day, so I should be able to figure out something. It seems like I ready somewhere that I should be shooting for a low cross % like 35? Or maybe I'm mistaken.
I guess there are 2 schools of thought. With our Coyote XP's, we keep going up in cross to free the kart up in left handers. We push up between 50.5 and 51% on a road course. Some people will say that having really low cross puts a lot of weight on the LF which you can jack to unload the kart when you turn. From my experience, with the coyote sprint karts, you don't have to make the kart jack anymore than it already does. Running higher cross will keep that LR under control and help to insure the weight jacking isnt too aggressive. My biggest concern would be to try to keep the inside wheels on the track.

Usually with the Coke syrup, you take all the transfer out the kart because there is so much grip the kart will transfer anyways. You don't need much mechanical jacking. Even with LTO chassis, we roll all of the castor out and dump a ton of LS weight in to keep the RS from working too hard and getting tight. Once we get a balance we can fine tune with cross.

Keep in mind I am no genius, I have only run on the syrup once and did half decent for a nobody and a rookie. Been running the Coyote Sprint karts for my entire life. Let us know what your percentages are when you get a chance to scale. That will probably help us get you better info.
What your saying does make sense, and considering I've only ever ran on dirt, you have more knowledge than me on syrup. racing. I do appreciate the input, an if I can finish decent with an almost vintage straight rail I'd be happy. Haha
Running a bullet with tires that have black bite on them indoors on syrup is a recipe for disaster. Indoor karting is very tough and very easy to get hurt if you are not prepared for it. The speeds relative to track size, the differential in speed between a well set up kart and one that is not, and the ridiculous amount of bite in the track has really caught a number of people over the years. My advice is to get yourself an older offset chassis and some used ss33 tires and start there. You can do that cheaply which will probably be more than your health insurance deductible when the kart two wheels into the fence or you get run over.

There will be those that jump on me for being this honest but I hate seeing people show up at these shows and get hurt. There are a lot of outdoor racers who don't race indoors even though they have the equipment for a reason.

Indoor racing is awesome, it just really deserves a lot of respect. We did it for a long time - best advice if you do go is to remember if the kart isn't working, pull off. You can not carry a bad handling kart indoors!
I should have specified, inside tires are maxxis pinks prepped with black bite, outsides are in fact old used burris 33's soaked in wd 40. I have a new offset chassis that I don't really wanna chance getting wrecked. So I'm using my girlfriends chassis, also a recipe for disaster lol. My work does offer a great insurance plan with minimal co pay so I figured I'd give this a shot. If it doesn't work I won't push it, just something to keep me entertained in the off season.
Keep in mind, you are not the only competitor on the track, coke syrup racing is NOT a joke.. Karts are turning 6 second laps with cement jersey barriers that do not give. Please respect other racers well being as the set up you are going to run is not safe for this type of racing. Maxxis pinks on the inside will not work!!!
Whoa, sorry for upsetting you. I'm not saying I'm gonna jump in field of 30 and try it out. I have the whole day Friday to run hot laps. If it doesn't work on the syrup. I'm obviously not going to race Saturday. I simply was looking for input from someone who has possible tried a similar setup,
I guess what I'm not understanding is, if I can get in the area of 60% Ls weight, and the right cross, why won't it work? The kart weighs 170, I weigh 162. There's a 360 minimum that leaves me with 30 lbs to stick on the ls
Ok, I am dating myself but ran straight karts for years indoor before going to the offsets when they came out. The corner speed of the offset is ridiculously faster than the straight rail because of the way the kart works. The early offsets were a huge step up from the straight rail and those are now obsolete when compared to the latest chassis.

60 left is what is common on the newer karts which are much more free to begin with and can allow you to drop the seat to a super low height. Trust me, you won't get your seat low enough in that design.

I don't like discouraging people from showing up and therefore reducing kart counts but I don't think people realize how fast things can go wrong indoors. I'd rather see people enjoy the sport and keep doing it rather than get hurt and quit.
I understand how fast things can go wrong indoors, that's why I came here to ask a few questions. Slack I can see our point and appreciate your replies.
We ran straight rail chassis on the syrup in the early to mid 90's. The only way for them to be fast on the syrup is left rear off the floor. I can't believe we lived through it because it only took a light shot to the left rear to be on your head. With that being said, even with a straight rail on the money set up wise, you will not keep up with an offset. I would say lap times are at least a full second faster then we ran on our straight rails then.
Depends on ho much kart you want, I have a wedge body and Yamaha 175 engine on it now.
If you want just non rolling frame (no wheels/tires/engine) W/Body $600.00