Coleman starter stripping the threads on starter bolt

S

Spriterep

New member
Can someone please shed some light on what I’m doing wrong here, this has happened twice now. On my son’s comer sw80, there is a counter clockwise bolt (that is hollow and has threads) that tightens the drum to the clutch. Then there is a bolt (starter bolt) that screws in normally (clockwise) into this hollow bolt until the end of the starter bolt reaches the crank shaft (which means it looks like it’s screwed only 3/4 of the way in - which is how it’s intended to look).

My issue is that when I put my Coleman external starter on this starter bolt and crank the engine over, the starter is further spinning this bolt right to the point it over tightens and strips the threads of both the hollow bolt and the starter bolt, and they’re now both a throw out job.

This has happened twice now. It doesn’t matter how lightly I tighten the outside starter bolt, cos as soon as the Coleman starter cranks over it immediately locks it tighter and tighter until it strips the threads. Does anyone have any experience with this?
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flattop1 said:
Possibly the outer bolt is the lock and your supposed to be starting off the bigger hex with a deep socket.
 Or i would shim it .
So that its tight .
Click to expand...
The only thing is that bigger hex one is tightened counter clockwise, so as soon as the external starter cranks it’s going to losen it. That outer bolt won’t prevent the inner bolt from loosing because the outer bolt isn’t screwed into the crank, so it’ll just spin with the inner bolt
 
You could try red loctite on both, if it can't spin it can't clean the threads off that bolt. You'll have to put some heat on it to get it back apart though.
 
Jon Brogden said:
You could try red loctite on both, if it can't spin it can't clean the threads off that bolt. You'll have to put some heat on it to get it back apart though.
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That looks like the way to go. Only thing is that as it’ll be used on dirt, so I’ll need to be taking it apart frequently to clean and regrease the bearing the clutch drum sits on
 
Try a drill or cordless impact to start instead of your starter. Sounds like your starter has too much torque.
 
Colt sr said:
Try a drill or cordless impact to start instead of your starter. Sounds like your starter has too much torque.
Click to expand...
impact is a bad idea it will just continue to tighten that nut until it fails. many 4 stroke flywheels were broken by using an impact for a starter .
get a socket to fit the nut next to the sprocket and don't fool with that little nut it obviously cant take it. hard to believe the two stroke has the compression to let that happen i think there may be something else
 
From what I have found, it shows the turned shoulder goes inside the clutch, it says to add grease to that part, then the inside nut goes in to lock against the crank. Also, this engine has a pull crank normally?

But, also this is all inside, toward the seat. Yours seems to be facing out toward the nerf bar. What's the difference between the way yours is setup and the way the rest are setup? Cause, it seems CCW, which is the way the big nut tightens from the inside toward the seat is the proper rotation of the engine. Am I missing something? Seems everything is backwards compared to all the other SW80's I'm finding online.

Is yours a K80, or SW80? The K80 from what I see sits like yours. The SW is all inboard? I'm not completely familiar with these engines.
 
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J'-remy said:
impact is a bad idea it will just continue to tighten that nut until it fails. many 4 stroke flywheels were broken by using an impact for a starter .
get a socket to fit the nut next to the sprocket and don't fool with that little nut it obviously cant take it. hard to believe the two stroke has the compression to let that happen i think there may be something else
Click to expand...
I just have a feeling that the bolts are not that high quality. The bigger nut next to the sprocket is tightened counter clockwise, so as soon as the starter turns it, it will loosen up. If the outside bolt was attached to the crank (rather than the end just touching it), then I could turn the inner bolt without worrying about it coming loose, but that’s not the case unfortunately.
 
ABR #69 said:
From what I have found, it shows the turned shoulder goes inside the clutch, it says to add grease to that part, then the inside nut goes in to lock against the crank. Also, this engine has a pull crank normally?

But, also this is all inside, toward the seat. Yours seems to be facing out toward the nerf bar. What's the difference between the way yours is setup and the way the rest are setup? Cause, it seems CCW, which is the way the big nut tightens from the inside toward the seat is the proper rotation of the engine. Am I missing something? Seems everything is backwards compared to all the other SW80's I'm finding online.

Is yours a K80, or SW80? The K80 from what I see sits like yours. The SW is all inboard? I'm not completely familiar with these engines.
Click to expand...
Yeah you’re right, if it was inbound then it would be spinning the right way for the bigger bolt. I have no idea why here in Australia the comer sw80 (the one I’ve got) are all run with the sprocket out bound. I’ve never seen one locally run inbound (which would make more sense with that larger bolt).
 
Yeah, looking around apparently the SW80 comes both ways, I've never dealt with either engine. It doesn't seem like a good setup either way.
 
The only thing I have noticed is the racers using the Comer's always lift the back wheels of the ground when they start their karts, I truly don't know if this is relevant or not just an observation.
 
R Bahnsen said:
The only thing I have noticed is the racers using the Comer's always lift the back wheels of the ground when they start their karts, I truly don't know if this is relevant or not just an observation.
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The reason they lift them is to build heat in the engine without heating the clutch, get your self some tri flow with teflon and squirt it at the face of the gear on the drum while spinning the tire, not a lot but let that penetrate into the bearing. These engines have a lot of compression and if you have a hi torque starter this may be a problem. The oil is so you don't have to take the clutch and keeps the bearing from drying out.
 
J'-remy said:
impact is a bad idea it will just continue to tighten that nut until it fails. many 4 stroke flywheels were broken by using an impact for a starter .
get a socket to fit the nut next to the sprocket and don't fool with that little nut it obviously cant take it. hard to believe the two stroke has the compression to let that happen i think there may be something else
Click to expand...
I was about to say valves are out of adjustment , but electric drills and impacts are not the way to go as for starting built high compression engines . Impacts will do grace unseen damage as stated to the flywheel . I don't even use an impact to put the flywheel back on my mowers and when using a electric drill if the engine fires and is in choke mode or has excessive fuel in the carb , intake , or combustion chamber and it goes into a high rpm choke state the engine can easily over speed the drill and lead to catastrophic and painful carnage such as the drill not disengaging and possibly coming apart it's self if not spinning and wrapping ur wrist in the cord , breaking wrist , etc . It's better if a drill is the only option use a cordless drill and not a cordless impact as the cordless drills have a very high maximum rpm range . I have a 20v kobalt ......well I had a 20v kobalt that worked fine until I decided to use it as a drill the day after using it for a starter so if a cordless is all u have in the drill starting area , I'd make sure it's a top shelf drill like a Makita or Milwaukee at least 20v with a max rpm of 4 to 6000 RPM and be sure my drive engagement was a loose fitting one . As for the threads stripping out , I believe ur using the outter most nut as an engagement point . That bolt is only for locking the larger inner nut in place and this is why one turns counter clockwise then the outter
 
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