Copper wheel Nuts

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like this?
 
Those nuts are for electrical connections. If you can't find a steel nyloc flange nut get a regular steel nyloc with a flat washer.
 
https://www.amazon.com/M8-1-25-Flange-Insert-Stainless-Quantity/dp/B08J9S56VW?th=1
NOTE: These have SMOOTH flanges that don't chew up your wheels, unlike most from Grainger, etc. I still prefer the barrel style because of the distributed load on the threads over the whole stud, but these work where you don't want ANY extra weight, and they're admittedly less "real estate" in a tight area. I may get some as backups.
 
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that is a copper 8mm lug nut, standard for some metric karts. if you have 8mm studs, fastech sells a titainum 8mm lug nut. been using them for years, last along time, never stripped one.
Thanks. I checked them out and noticed they are non-locking, do you thread lock the studs first or use a lock washer? I’m running magnesium wheels too so not sure if that soft metal requires a locking nut.
 
Throw those copper nuts in the trash for sure. They eat studs.

Use the barrel nuts mentioned above.

You don't need any locking of the wheel nuts. Tighten them properly and you'll never have an issue. Those are what we use on shifters, KAs, and 206s.
 
Throw those copper nuts in the trash for sure. They eat studs.

Use the barrel nuts mentioned above.

You don't need any locking of the wheel nuts. Tighten them properly and you'll never have an issue. Those are what we use on shifters, KAs, and 206s.
Thanks for the tip!
 
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You don't need any locking of the wheel nuts. Tighten them properly and you'll never have an issue. Those are what we use on shifters, KAs, and 206s.
WHEN TIGHTENED... The nylock adds just a little factor of safety for when you've snugged them but forgot to go back and tighten them completely. I normally run my barrels which have no such insert, but some may prefer the extra margin.
 
You can use a tiny bit of blue loctite on the barrel nuts but they stay on ok without it. They do have a small foot print and, if you have room for a flat washer, it will help keep your mag wheel from deteriorating. Mag alloy is better but true mag wheels can chip out around the bolt hole.
 
I know this is an old thread but copper nuts are used on the higher power classes in Europe with no issues at all. I have been testing them all summer on my KZ Chassis with a Modena engine that puts around 50 hp and even on these asphalt tracks with continuous abuse due to the aggressive driving a shifter kart requires on small tracks I have had no issue at all. They even offer advantages on the nylon ones, they are easier to install, faster to removed, they are flanged so don't come off and don't require the use of any kind of washer, they are also lighter and won't damage the bolt threads, and their walls are narrower which means with some wheels are actually the only type you can fit because of the space around the nuts. No corrosion either. The hole is oval which causes them to lock and not getting loose. Read this quote below:

"CIK copper wheel nut, these are the wheel nuts we choose to use. The hole is an oval so that's how it becomes a locking nut. The softer copper will not strip out the wheel studs, the only downside to copper nuts is they will loose their locking ability sooner because they are a softer alloy."
 
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Total rubbish, use alloy steel nuts.
Not on my shifter. Last weekend I have hit my best lap time at the track I have run for 30 years in Spain using this copper nuts on a new set of wheels/tires, and I have been using these copper nuts the last 2 years with no issues at all. I am talking about an Intrepid Sprint asphalt chassis powered by a KZ Modena shifter producing about 50 HP and with all the abuse of going on curbs and sideways under power, and they are using them at World Championships on KZ and KZ2 classes with no issues either. Never tried on enduros or oval tracks, but I doubt even my UAS ride would cause the abuse of my asphalt KZ. Only thing is these are 8mm metric thread, not American size. I have also heard some are not real copper, are low quality knockoffs with copper color on them. Easy to check with a magnet.
 
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