coyote Bullet Questions

[Bobby Shine]

I'm returning to kart racing after 47 years. I purchased a Coyote Bullet kart with a Briggs Animal engine on it. I'm racing this older kart (road course, class: Sr. Animal Master) against newer karts. I know I'm up against it already but I feel that I should be somewhat competitive. My question is, I can't find any stock setting for this kart. The spindles don't have thick spacers but have a bunch of thin washers ( 8 top / 5 bottom, both sides same) and I'm being told to take 2 - 3 washers from the bottom (left) and put them on top. How do i know that some from the top don't have to go on the bottom right? I don't have hub measurements from the frame out, and the front there's three wide spacers putting the front hubs all the way out. Long story short, does any one have the stock specifications on this older kart. Thanks for your time, Bobby

 

[sundog]

Leave the front wheels all the way out and set your spindle height in the middle. Also you want your rear wheels as wide as they will go and use 12psi all tires and a very slight toe in. Bleed your brakes with DOT5 for an MCP system and check the cotter keys on your clevis pins. Those front tires look hell'a wide for asphalt, what size are they?

 

[Bobby Shine]

those were the tires that came with the kart, since then i've changed to bridgestone ylc front's are 4.5/ 10.0-5 rear 6.0 /11.0-5. after i put the new tires on it was just dead loose. I found the rear hubs weren't evenly spaced out and who I pit with said to square up the kart and from the frame bearing flange to the hub face make it 5 1/2 inches. i also dropped from 12 psi to 10 psi and that seemed to help a lot. But with 8 washers on top and 5 on the bottom, how do you get "the middle" out of 13 washers? this is why i'm searching for the stock spec's. the brakes are done, some things i still have to drill & pin, and i have to change the rear bumper for track rules. I'm just trying to get a handle on the kart before i tare it down and go thru everything over winter, besides giving me some seat time. it's been awhile since 71' in a kart. and a kart is different then a midget. Thanks for your time.

 

[flattop1]

6 top 7 bottom or vice versa.

 

[sundog]

What's your height and weight, makes a difference in set up. YLC is a good tire. If you can run 10 psi that's good if they don't feel mushy in the turns. 6" rears are rather small for an unrestricted Animal, you will overload/overheat them depending on track configurations. 7.10 rears on 8" wide wheels are almost always better.

The spindle height setting does almost nothing so put 6 on the bottom and 7 on top and forget about it. Your main adjustments are track width and front to back weight balance. Your axle should be evenly spaced side to side so you can get the max track width in the back.

Almost all drivers new to karting think the rear is loose but it's actually tight then breaks loose from excessive steering input. Put your front track width all the way wide and this will loosen the rear going in and tighten it coming out of the turn.

If you can scale it go for 50/50 side to side with rear 55% and front 45%
Set front and rear track width to max
spindle height close to the middle
Toe set straight ahead or a little toe in
concentric castor pills (neutral = 12 degrees)
Bottom of seat 1" off the ground

That's your stock specs. Tune from there.

Sundog

 

[Bobby Shine]

thanks for the reply Sundog and Flattop. the tires are what the club allows for my class. so i can't do much there.Toe is at zero. just so you know the front end outside to outside of the rim is 38 3/4. with the spacers this leaves me just enough thread for the castle nut and get a carter pin in it. I haven't scaled the kart yet, as i'm under weight for the class. the class wt is 375lbs. i come across the scales at 341lbs. I'm just trying to get a handle on the kart and the club is letting do this. now for the rest of the story. originally it had a 15 tooth clutch with stock clutch springs. it was killing me out of the hair pin turn. (I've upgraded to the green springs in the clutch.) now rear gear, it came with 59 tooth. then i changed to a 14 tooth clutch, for the track, from the hair pin thru the front short chute, down the long straight it was pulling the whole way and was still pullin by the end of it. (both 14 & 15 tooth) so i've changed the rear gear to a 64, in hopes between the clutch springs and the gear it's a better balance on the track. The animal engine, that lacks the updated flywheel and PVL mag. now for the seat, in my search, i found a seat setup guide for coyote, it says that the seat needs to be layed back as far as it can be, for low center of gravity. i'm not really comfortable layed back, but if it effects kart balance. Then I'm told the early bullets the seats were more upright. (so here we go again.) and i'm going to have to check seat ground height. my main concern was the stock settings of the kart. Now I have some info i can work with. I'm sure as I go I'll have some questions along the way. Thanks for adding me to the group, Thank You for the information and Thank you for your time. Bobby.
**update** 10-29-18 My last time out i did set the stance as wide as it would go. after 3 laps and not being able to hang on to it even at half throttle i brought in the pits. this kart doesn't like "wide". I took the rear wheel width back where it was and went in another inch. This was the best it's ever been. also note, this was with the green clutch springs, 14 t-clutch and changed from a 59 t main sprocket to a 64 t. AND had put the new PVL and flywheel in it. Cant wait for next season.