Cutting Burris Tires

Mcgraw5

New member
Looking for info on cutting tires. I just picked up a Jones and know nothing about using it.
Need info on how to set it up.
How much air to have in tire.
And how to set the depth of the cutter.
Thanks in advance for any help
 
Looking for info on cutting tires. I just picked up a Jones and know nothing about using it.
Need info on how to set it up.
How much air to have in tire.
And how to set the depth of the cutter.
Thanks in advance for any help

I usually size my right sides to 34 1/8 - 34 1/4...thats around 9-10 PSI

The template has a center line engraved in it, use that center to center the mold line on the tire (this is a good starting point, you can adjust the template left to right to cut evenly on the tire)

I usually run the bit into just barely touching the center of the tire, then I feed it full left and full right to keep an eye on the profile/depth of the bit as it moves along the template, without spinning the tire.

Cutting tires is alot of trial and error....you will mess up a few before you get it right. Its not as simple as just setting it up and hitting a button.
 
Make sure to keep a good sharp edge up when you start. Pay attention and familiarize yourself with the sound it makes when cutting, if the pitch increases chances are the cutter is sucking into the tire and about to junk it so be prepared to back it off. This is also a good indication your tire has gotten hot or your tool is dull. If you back your cutter off understand the backlash that is in your screw, you won't be able to back it off a minimal amount and turn it back into the cut without experiencing play. Typically I do not feed more than a quarter turn at a time or per cut. One other tip depending on what template you use don't run the cutter all the way to the end of the template or your template could move. You may not notice it at first but when you change the direction of your cut and its now taking a heavy cut on the opposite end because your template moved you could junk a tire.
People use many types of lubricants when cutting ranging from plain water, water and methanol mix, non ammonia window cleaner, windshield washer fluid just to name a few. Don't attempt it dry.
Bryan Carlson is a goto guy for cutting inserts. I resharpen mine but have resources available to do that.
 
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I’m new at this to. So the point of cutting tires is to get them flat across or do you put a angle on tire for handling
There are many different reasons to cut a tire.
Typically on a thick rubber tire like a Burris, you can "shape" the tire's contact patch to better suit your needs.
Round cuts, flat cuts, and a whole myriad in between.
Then there's rubber thickness and how it affects the tire, heating, cooling, prep absorption, and more.
Spring rates are also affected by cutting the shoulders of the tire: thinner = lower spring rate, thicker = higher spring rate.
Cutting tires affects the handling of the kart, especially as the track surface changes. Higher bite tracks need flatter cuts, lower bite tracks need rounder cuts. Some chassis also like particular profiles when it comes to tires. Flatter cuts can free a car up.
You can camber cut tires to better match the stagger in the rear axle, but it is seldom done except for specific applications like syrup racing.
Concentricity is really the least of our concerns when cutting a tire.
There's even more to it, but that's the basics of it.


-----
🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
Sticker1.jpg

Sticker Burris SS33A
Inter.jpg

Vector Cutz Intermediate Burris SS33A (mostly flat, some roundness between then dots, shoulders untouched)
High Crown2.jpg

Vector Cutz Full Crown Burris SS33A (round cut)


We are currently up to 7 right side templates alone for the Burris 33s. We have flatter and rounder than either of these shown, but these two are our two most popular profiles currently.
 
A better comparison picture of our Inters & Full Crowns side by side:
Inter & High Crown2.jpg


Notice the shoulder area difference specifically.
The Inter (top) leaves both mold ribs on the shoulder of the tire, while the Full Crown cuts out to the second mold line and rounds the shoulders considerably.
 
So how do you make a decision to run a certain profike?
Flat and thin for fast and hard tracks (the southeast tracks for example which is why maxxis are the fastest rolling tire despite being a junk compound and quality) and more rounded and thick for soft and low bite tracks.
 
Make sure to keep a good sharp edge up when you start. Pay attention and familiarize yourself with the sound it makes when cutting, if the pitch increases chances are the cutter is sucking into the tire and about to junk it so be prepared to back it off. This is also a good indication your tire has gotten hot or your tool is dull. If you back your cutter off understand the backlash that is in your screw, you won't be able to back it off a minimal amount and turn it back into the cut without experiencing play. Typically I do not feed more than a quarter turn at a time or per cut. One other tip depending on what template you use don't run the cutter all the way to the end of the template or your template could move. You may not notice it at first but when you change the direction of your cut and its now taking a heavy cut on the opposite end because your template moved you could junk a tire.
People use many types of lubricants when cutting ranging from plain water, water and methanol mix, non ammonia window cleaner, windshield washer fluid just to name a few. Don't attempt it dry.
Bryan Carlson is a goto guy for cutting inserts. I resharpen mine but have resources available to do that.
If you are using the window cleaner and washer fluid do you guys bother rinsing them off after or just let it soak in?
 
If you are using the window cleaner and washer fluid do you guys bother rinsing them off after or just let it soak in?

There won't be any left if you are careful in your sanding. A belt sander will pull the coolant solution off the tire as it refinishes. I've got a car wash scrub brush with a handle on it that I brush any loose rubber off of the tire with, then blow clean with compressed air while the tire is still on the lathe.
 
My son races jr1 in Canada on a sticky clay track. Sounds like you guys are saying to cut tires flat. Rules say ss11’s only
any help on prep would be appreciated
Thanks
 
My son races jr1 in Canada on a sticky clay track. Sounds like you guys are saying to cut tires flat. Rules say ss11’s only
any help on prep would be appreciated
Thanks
Generally, we cut 11s minimally, and if you're on that soft of a track, you are probably wanting a rounder cut.
11's already have a very floppy sidewall.
If 11s are faster than treated down 33s, then you def. want a rounder cut.

Now, with 11s as your spec tire, it may be a case where you can use a flatter cut tire with all the shoulder remaining to give the tire some more spring rate. Knowing the size of the track and the air pressure the fast guys are running would help determine if you need a higher spring rate or a lower one. Also, knowing what your kart wants/needs is important to factor in. Are you needing to free the car up in the corners, or are you needing more side bite?

It's not as simple as soft track = round tires and hard track = flat tires.
Much is determined by the amount of bite you've got in the tires and the available grip in the track.
 
Thanks for your info
We have just been out having fun for a couple years but now we want to get a little more competitive and still have fun. Newer kart this year” 2019 slack “ and motor getting tuned. Getting a lot of help from other racers as well. Everyone seems to be saying tires are really important so I’m just trying to see what is needed to get max speed and handling
 
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