Cutting piston top on GX200 t3 piston ???

stoney

Member

Anyone have any experience with cutting the top of a Honda GX200 T3 piston ... how much can be safely removed without compromising the strength of the piston ?? Building a mild modified and want to cut the top of a T3 piston to minimize piston weight .... deck height is not an issue. ... any help would be greatly appreciated !


 
why do don´t get flat top top instead? = lower compression =thumbs down from me
l
if it´s for weight reduce you should modify/shorten your skirts instead
 
While I am sure that the thickness of the top of the piston is of issue(and I don't really know how thin too thin is), I would also be concerned about how close the top ring gets to the top of the piston. Ive heard of .060 being a minimum on this but that sounds thin to me. I would think fuel (heat on top ring) and static CR would be a factor too. Ive seen some drastic lightening in and around the skirt area. let us know what you decide your minimum piston thickness turns out to be. LOL Ive never lightened a tier 3 200 piston. Only the 390. Usually is about .085 off the top. No idea how this equates to a 200 piston. Good luck.
 
It would be better to just get the drop in set up from Arc.parts numbers 6234 rod and the 11132p or p2 wiseco piston and then the wrist pin .0590
 

Guys, thanks for the replies .... yes, I realize there are alternative, flat top piston/pin/rods/ available, but that doesn't address my original question .......

"Anyone have any experience with cutting the top of aHonda GX200 T3 piston ... how much can be safely removed without compromising the strength of the piston ??"

For my application, and paramaters, the T3 piston is the "better" alternative.



 
I don't know for sure how much it can be cut but if your just wanting to save weight and I
have done it many times is drill holes into the piston skirts like swiss cheese 1/4 holes
 
I don't know for sure how much it can be cut but if your just wanting to save weight and I
have done it many times is drill holes into the piston skirts like swiss cheese 1/4 holes

Thanks John, but that's not an option ... again, application and parameters don't allow that ... only modification allowed is cutting top of piston.


 

If that is a "rule" weird specs considering you must be using a long rod or stroker crank if you need to cut it

Nothing "weird" ... As I stated, cutting the dome of piston is the only modification allowed, by rule.

I want to reduce the weight of the piston by removing as much material as possible (practical) from the top without comprising the structural integrity or reliability of the piston.

No long rod ... no stroker crank ... just standard rod +.020".

Once I establish my compression height on the piston, I can cut the block to whatever deck height I want/need.



 
Milling down pistion

Those of us running the long rod Animal must cut down the JE or Wiseco piston. I've always been told to make sure there is at least .060 thickness on the dome of the piston. I usually have a little more of that, and commonly run a peak RPM of 9,000 - 9,300 RPM on a sprint course with an open animal. I've never had any kind of piston failure of any kind using the .060 rule of thumb.
Best wishes,
K~
 

Those of us running the long rod Animal must cut down the JE or Wiseco piston. I've always been told to make sure there is at least .060 thickness on the dome of the piston. I usually have a little more of that, and commonly run a peak RPM of 9,000 - 9,300 RPM on a sprint course with an open animal. I've never had any kind of piston failure of any kind using the .060 rule of thumb.
Best wishes,
K~

Now that's the kind of response I was hoping for .. Animal vs clone and Wiseco vs Honda, but at least it gives me some baseline info ... informative and helpful .... thanks !!

... and thanks jsstump for your earlier post !


 
Back
Top