Depending on what you're looking to do, just gear it "too tall".....take a few teeth off the rear so the motor is working a little harder and you'll get less wheelspin (if that's the issue). I'm curious why you'd want to detune a 116, though? There never too much power until you spin the tires all the way down the straights -- the best regulator is a well-tuned right foot. IMO.
Some times a samller carb will actually make it run better. Might not make as much overall power but may make more in the midrange because of the faster intake velocity. I'd be careful if you change gearing to make it work harder. When it works harder it makes more heat and that can lead to a stick. Adding a thicker head gasket will take some power away. I also like your idea of maybe taking some timing out of it. That will soften it up a bit when it hits the pipe I would think.
Im spinning alot.i had a 100 reed that was faster.i say that and people think im crazy.i guess they havent seen the garden dirt racetracks around here in ky.i weigh 360 in kart and itsgot lead on it.i m looking or ideas to do some tuning to adjust for track conditions.too much power is just a waste if its not hooked up.
Yall have some ideas i didnt think of thats what i was looking for.i ll get it.on a track with bite it will fly.but when its slick just cant hook it up without making a dump truck out of it.i made flex longer,more gear and less stall.im going to play with it some and get some ideas and make em happen.thanks yall always come up with a plan.i have a vevey pipe for a 125 and my bro has one for a 100.might try it on the slick bullring it spins all way down straight
Just remember........ A direct drive pipe is designed to pull down low. If you set your stall of the clutch too low you may just be giving that pipe exactly what it wants to produce power you're trying to avoid. Makes me wonder what a Yamaha Sportsman pipe would do (can on a stick).