Does stagger depend on driving style

XXX#40 said:
There is, but you and race promoter want to argue your fact.
Fact, your seat is too high, and caster too high for your situation, remember at entry weight goes forward....and thats all I say
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Jamie no one is arguing any point, and if we have in your eyes debate point out where were wrong, we've been there done that with all the normal stuff, it doesn't work for his situation, and in some cases makes no sense thus the reason for his post in the first place, now you say caster to high please clarify meaning still the split only as before ? or now your saying to high on both sides ? and if to high on both sides close the split as well ?
Also I assume your suggestions are to be applied to the more normal triton set up with higher nose, and normal stagger, as we've solved the loose in with the low nose and less stagger.
 
XXX#40 said:
There is, but you and race promoter want to argue your fact.
Fact, your seat is too high, and caster too high for your situation, remember at entry weight goes forward....and that's all I say
Click to expand...

I went back through all of this 3 or 4 times to find another reference to seat height.

I did not find any mention of seat height. First i'll ask what is your seat height.

Jamie are you thinking for what there doing to work they must also have the seat higher?

Trying to blend both posters info and your info Jamie and if both your though's and their's are both fast the difference I see which is just now showing itself to me thinking about seat height is timing and how the two setups would actually end up applying weight.

Jamie, would what there doing quicken when things get done and ending up with weight/grip which is more abruptly put to the track then is generally needed? Even if it's indicated not much at all in the way of turning is done, might the setup being described make the chassis work quicker? I guess a difference in how quickly a chassis responds even with minimal driver input would need driven differently. Might we be getting down to a driver preference thing and how an increase in stagger along with what ever else is necessary to make it work moves the operation of the chassis away from what the driver likes?

I think maybe because of how I see everything overall being shifted to accommodate the increased stagger, we might be getting into the realm of a gear ratio is a gear ratio? Dang this is hard work.
 
paulkish said:
I went back through all of this 3 or 4 times to find another reference to seat height.

I did not find any mention of seat height. First i'll ask what is your seat height.

Jamie are you thinking for what there doing to work they must also have the seat higher?

Trying to blend both posters info and your info Jamie and if both your though's and their's are both fast the difference I see which is just now showing itself to me thinking about seat height is timing and how the two setups would actually end up applying weight.

Jamie, would what there doing quicken when things get done and ending up with weight/grip which is more abruptly put to the track then is generally needed? Even if it's indicated not much at all in the way of turning is done, might the setup being described make the chassis work quicker? I guess a difference in how quickly a chassis responds even with minimal driver input would need driven differently. Might we be getting down to a driver preference thing and how an increase in stagger along with what ever else is necessary to make it work moves the operation of the chassis away from what the driver likes?

I think maybe because of how I see everything overall being shifted to accommodate the increased stagger, we might be getting into the realm of a gear ratio is a gear ratio? Dang this is hard work.
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Paul post #10 shows his seat height is 9 "
 
Thanks I couldn't find it.

Isn't 9"s what most would consider normal?
I think it is but not sure.

Then Jamie's saying either 9"s is too much or it's too much for the other info or part of the other info you all presented.
I'm not the one qualified to offer an opinion on 9"s being too much or too little.

My opinions are about if you shift this that way what would you expect to happen.
I'm willing to bet Jamie's saying you got this and that and that's going to happen and I know it because this that and thus being like it is guarantees it will.

I trust he's generally correct. But is this the exception to prove the rule? don't know....
 
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Seeing as RP has experience with the op .
My question is how loose dirt track dirt slinging loose or spins out loose maybe just a quick turn of the wheel loose ?
Set up and tires are seemingly pretty close .
Any odd ackerman or steering arm lengths ?
Pills correct?
 
flattop1 said:
Seeing as RP has experience with the op .
My question is how loose dirt track dirt slinging loose or spins out loose maybe just a quick turn of the wheel loose ?
Set up and tires are seemingly pretty close .
Any odd ackerman or steering arm lengths ?
Pills correct?
Click to expand...
If we would increase stagger 1/4 " to where most are, and increase nose closer to 47 % where most are it would spin out on a dime.
The ackerman steering arm length Paul the OP will have to answer 100% I didn't notice anything odd.
 
flattop1 said:
Seeing as RP has experience with the op .
My question is how loose dirt track dirt slinging loose or spins out loose maybe just a quick turn of the wheel loose ?
Set up and tires are seemingly pretty close .
Any odd ackerman or steering arm lengths ?
Pills correct?
Click to expand...
Yes pills are correct.
 
flattop1 said:
Seeing as RP has experience with the op .
My question is how loose dirt track dirt slinging loose or spins out loose maybe just a quick turn of the wheel loose ?
Set up and tires are seemingly pretty close .
Any odd ackerman or steering arm lengths ?
Pills correct?
Click to expand...
Nothing strange on Ackerman...both tie rods in center hole
 
The only thing we can pin point that makes some sense to us is the fact that with the normal set up the LR is not pinned to the axle, any thought's ?
should of we tried that first and would it end up faster, if that would fix the loose in ?
 
The bumper is loose and left bearing floats on axle ken is pointing out maybe we are not transferring enough weight to rr...any thoughts on what putting set screws in left bearing will do ?
 
Real quick I always ran the axle free on the LR bearing too.

Which one you might run loose for what reason has been discussed many times on here but not recently.
A search may help.

I remember the end result of the discussions were based on input from "fast guys' that you pin the axle on both sides the same as it came from the factory, put your factory baseline to it and the rest is tires.

Let's hurt your heads and others instead of mine.

Why do you do it?
What problem did it solve?
Did you just do it and got faster so you kept doing it?

How does it go along with running less stagger?
 
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