Does tuning clutch engagement really matter for slower corners?

Digitalfiend

New member
I have a question that has been bugging me all weekend with regards to tuning engagement for peak torque coming out of corners.

Every forum post on the subject of clutch engagement tuning seems to recommend tuning for just before peak torque. In theory, this makes sense: transfer peak torque to the sprocket/driver to accelerate the kart. But why does tuning for peak torque really matter coming out of a corner if the higher rpm engagement is going to result in slippage between the clutch and drum? Slippage is loss of torque: the clutch drum is connected to the axle via the chain/driver, so the engine can’t possibly instantly accelerate the mass of the kart; i.e. the clutch drum and clutch shoes will turn at different rates (until they sync up), resulting in slippage.

Since slippage means loss of transferred torque, then couldn’t it be possible that the actual torque transferred, after accounting for the temporary slippage, is similar to the torque the engine puts out at a lower rpm without slippage? I guess it depends on how much torque is lost through slippage and just how low-speed the corner is. If the corner would result in the engine running below 2500rpm, then setting the engagement to 3400rpm is probably beneficial. But if the corner is above 2500rpm, where the engine makes reasonable torque (8.5 lb-ft), then the actual torque applied at 3400rpm, after factoring in slippage, might not be any greater than if you just locked up at 2500rpm.

My question really only applies to whether tuning matters for corners. With regards to starting from a stand-still, I get why tuning would probably be important: the engine can likely accelerate the kart from a stand-still faster, even with the slippage, starting at peak torque (e.g. 3400rpm) vs idle (e.g. 1600rpm).

I've come to the conclusion that the only time I can see clutch engagement tuning being important is on a track with a really long straight and some really tight corners. You'd have to gear for the straight and that tall gear would likely drop the engine below 2500rpm in the corners, so tuning the clutch engagement for peak torque might result in better acceleration, even after factoring in the torque lost due to slippage (edit: this is likely incorrect thinking on my part and the clutch can probably still transfer the peak torque of the engine even when slipping. See my response below here). Otherwise, for tracks that don't have long straights and tight corners, clutch tuning probably doesn't matter that much.

Am I thinking about this the wrong way or missing something?
 
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You're thinking makes enough sense that it would need to be tested. However, it is so rare for a corner to pull the engine down below 3500 rpm that you're probably just going down a rabbit hole.
 
With a low HP engine like a clone or Animal, I'd want the chassis "free" (loose) and the clutch engagement low no matter the HP. I've not seen clutch theory for slippage put forward, though Al Nunley (RIP) had an experimental method that derived the best engagement RPM. it involved raising the engagement RPM incrementally and recording the force that resulted with a vertically placed scale between the nose and a wall. With a higher hp engine, I prefer a low engagement so I have full lockup in the best RPM band. I want to pull THROUGH peak torque, not all AFTER.
 
Probably the best way to look at the OP problem would be to look at a graph of the torque curve.

At peak torque rpm, or below, any loss of rpm means also a loss in torque.
Above peak torque rpm, a loss of rpm comes with a rise in torque.

Therefore any loss from slippage would drop back towards peak torque.(torque number rising)
 
Since slippage means loss of transferred torque, then couldn’t it be possible that the actual torque transferred, after accounting for the temporary slippage, is similar to the torque the engine puts out at a lower rpm without slippage? I guess it depends on how much torque is lost through slippage and just how low-speed the corner is.
If this statement is true, and I'm not saying it is. But, this is just putting excessive wear on components when you could tune it correctly and potentially get slightly better performance longer. If the clutch fades due to long runs with excess slip it will fade more and more resulting more and more slippage.

As far as pure theory, you could potentially be correct, but in practice I tend to side with 95 shaw above and avoid clutch fade.
 
I have a question that has been bugging me all weekend with regards to tuning engagement for peak torque coming out of corners.

Every forum post on the subject of clutch engagement tuning seems to recommend tuning for just before peak torque. In theory, this makes sense: transfer peak torque to the sprocket/driver to accelerate the kart. But why does tuning for peak torque really matter coming out of a corner if the higher rpm engagement is going to result in slippage between the clutch and drum? Slippage is loss of torque: the clutch drum is connected to the axle via the chain/driver, so the engine can’t possibly instantly accelerate the mass of the kart; i.e. the clutch drum and clutch shoes will turn at different rates (until they sync up), resulting in slippage.

Since slippage means loss of transferred torque, then couldn’t it be possible that the actual torque transferred, after accounting for the temporary slippage, is similar to the torque the engine puts out at a lower rpm without slippage? I guess it depends on how much torque is lost through slippage and just how low-speed the corner is. If the corner would result in the engine running below 2500rpm, then setting the engagement to 3400rpm is probably beneficial. But if the corner is above 2500rpm, where the engine makes reasonable torque (8.5 lb-ft), then the actual torque applied at 3400rpm, after factoring in slippage, might not be any greater than if you just locked up at 2500rpm.

My question really only applies to whether tuning matters for corners. With regards to starting from a stand-still, I get why tuning would probably be important: the engine can likely accelerate the kart from a stand-still faster, even with the slippage, starting at peak torque (e.g. 3400rpm) vs idle (e.g. 1600rpm).

I've come to the conclusion that the only time I can see clutch engagement tuning being important is on a track with a really long straight and some really tight corners. You'd have to gear for the straight and that tall gear would likely drop the engine below 2500rpm in the corners, so tuning the clutch engagement for peak torque might result in better acceleration, even after factoring in the torque lost due to slippage. Otherwise, for tracks that don't have long straights and tight corners, clutch tuning probably doesn't matter that much.

Am I thinking about this the wrong way or missing something?
I think you will see less benefit from this on a lo206, than an open or 2 stroke with a narrow power band.
The torque curve is pretty flat on the 206.
The real answer will come from the stopwatch.
Will you be faster trying to gain that last 1-2 mph at the end of the straight, or gearing to get off the corner better with clutch locked and let it bounce off the limiter the last 25-50 yards to the next corner?

Drag racers get beat by cars with slower trap speeds because they get to the top speed quicker, and just maintain it to the end.
 
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All great points, thanks! I did a bit more digging through some physics forums and came across posts regarding clutch slippage and transfer of torque. What I didn't realise is that a slipping clutch can continue to transfer additional torque (up to a point). The error in my thinking is that I assumed a slipping clutch would lead to a significant loss of ability to transfer the engine torque to the output side (sprocket/drum), therefore somewhat defeating the point of having it engage at peak torque. Apparently, this is not the case. Therefore, it sounds like you can still benefit from tuning the clutch to engage at peak torque. But as you all said, with the relatively flat torque curve of the lo206 animal, does 0.5-1.0 lb-ft really make that much of a difference if it only comes into play in one or two corners?

I've always had my kid's clutch set to engage at 2800rpm when she was in Cadet on the red slide. Now she's going to Junior and a yellow slide, so I thought I should revisit the clutch tuning topic. But I also have a lot of mechanical empathy so don't want to needlessly wear the clutch.

Now I just need to decide if I should stay with the Fire clutch (fibre shoes) or go to the Flame (going from 235lb to 300lb minimum weight).

Thanks again!
 
I've come to the conclusion that on engines with a very flat torque curve (like the 206) that you can safely adjust your clutch engagement below peak torque and create better lap times on very technical courses with tight hairpin corners by keeping the clutch engaged 1:1 (or nearly.) Disengaging the clutch on tight corners rarely produces better lap times.

Someone else already beat me to it though -- "your stop watch never lies -- if it's faster on the watch, it's faster on the track."

Blessings,
Brian Carlson
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
 
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