driver gear on clutch selection

[Damien_tiffany]

I have a little guy running a plate motor on a 1/10 mile track with slight banking. I have heard diff opinions on gear selection. We are currently running a 13 driver on his bully. We can easily go to a 12 or 14 and run the same overall gearing. Will one of these help us and how will it effect him? And I forgot to say but he flat foots it almost the whole time, slighty lets off entering the tighter corner. Thanks

 

[droid333]

Do a thread search on this subject. It has already been much debated on here with many different opinion's. My advice is try it and see what works for you. Experimenting is half the fun!

 

[alvin l nunley]

I have a little guy running a plate motor on a 1/10 mile track with slight banking. I have heard diff opinions on gear selection. We are currently running a 13 driver on his bully. We can easily go to a 12 or 14 and run the same overall gearing. Will one of these help us and how will it effect him? And I forgot to say but he flat foots it almost the whole time, slighty lets off entering the tighter corner. Thanks

there are some people out there, who are so experienced, who can read a track so good, thay can choose a driver/gear set that will give them an advantage. If they have, say, a 15/60 gear, and they see that the track has changed somehow, they can make the decision to change to a 16/64 and gain lap time. This ability, apparently, is a closely guarded secret. Or it may just be an intuitive thing that they just can't explain. At least I can't remember having ever heard anybody explain it. And here's a strange thing; I don't remember anybody ever saying that they went from a 16/64 to a 15/60, they always seem to go the other way. Maybe it's easier to see the changes in a track that favor the larger gear set? If you ever see a track improve to the point that you think a bigger gear set might possibly help, give it a try, see what happens.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
(Al Nunley)

 

[racing promotor]

I have a little guy running a plate motor on a 1/10 mile track with slight banking. I have heard diff opinions on gear selection. We are currently running a 13 driver on his bully. We can easily go to a 12 or 14 and run the same overall gearing. Will one of these help us and how will it effect him? And I forgot to say but he flat foots it almost the whole time, slighty lets off entering the tighter corner. Thanks

What plate motor exactly, and what rear gear are you running with the 13 driver.

 

[racing promotor]

there are some people out there, who are so experienced, who can read a track so good, thay can choose a driver/gear set that will give them an advantage. If they have, say, a 15/60 gear, and they see that the track has changed somehow, they can make the decision to change to a 16/64 and gain lap time. This ability, apparently, is a closely guarded secret. Or it may just be an intuitive thing that they just can't explain. At least I can't remember having ever heard anybody explain it. And here's a strange thing; I don't remember anybody ever saying that they went from a 16/64 to a 15/60, they always seem to go the other way. Maybe it's easier to see the changes in a track that favor the larger gear set? If you ever see a track improve to the point that you think a bigger gear set might possibly help, give it a try, see what happens.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
(Al Nunley)

Here we go again, It's been explained to you NUMEROUS times by NUMEROUS guy's, you keep saying NO one explains anything to you that's HOG WASH, Reading the Track and Lap times and choosing gearing is actually pretty simple.

 

[alvin l nunley]

Here we go again, It's been explained to you NUMEROUS times by NUMEROUS guy's, you keep saying NO one explains anything to you that's HOG WASH, Reading the Track and Lap times and choosing gearing is actually pretty simple.

I would ask you for a link to that explanation but I know how hard that would be. But rather than hollering at me, (caps) wouldn't it be nicer to just explain it to me again. I'm sure there are lots of people out there that would like to know.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
(Al Nunley)

 

[Damien_tiffany]

Hey guys, I didn't mean to get something started. But to answer the question it is a green plate motor on a big pipe and bully clutch running a 13/66 generally. Thanks for everyone's input!

 

[alvin l nunley]

Here we go again, It's been explained to you NUMEROUS times by NUMEROUS guy's,

I just want to point out that racing promotor is the one hijacking this thread, not me.

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory.
(Al Nunley)

 

[racing promotor]

Hey guys, I didn't mean to get something started. But to answer the question it is a green plate motor on a big pipe and bully clutch running a 13/66 generally. Thanks for everyone's input!

Well if your hitting your target RPM on a 13-66 you definitely don't want to try the 14 driver, most clones seem to like smaller rear gear like 58 to 62 or so, I would try a 12-62 and see if it helps, it might help pull it through the tight turn better and might recover little quicker when he get's back in it.

Good Luck !!

 

[3kartracer]

My general experience has been use a smaller clutch driver on tracks that are rough and/or are stop and go (heavy braking corners). The smaller clutch driver seems to make a difference in speed up and off the corner even if the ratio is the same with a larger clutch driver. If the track is smooth and a momentum track, I will use a larger clutch driver. The difference is only 1 tooth (12-13, or 13-14) at a given track. I can't really explain why it matters, and some will say it doesn't and I'm crazy, so take it for what its worth (free advice).

 

[bh1974]

Damien....13/66, 12/61, 14/71 are all very close ratios. I personally wouldn't do the 14 driver....axle sprocket is too big and may dig into track causing DNF. I would at least try the 12/61 combo, smaller driver should pick up alittle more rpm before the little one lifts. You using a stopwatch can compare on track positive and negatives between driver/driven combos.

 

[bh1974]

I myself prefer as big as a driver as possible AS LONG AS I'm hitting my target rpm. The bigger driver NORMALLY brings to the table higher turn entry speed.

 

[alvin l nunley]

Damien....13/66, 12/61, 14/71 are all very close ratios. I personally wouldn't do the 14 driver....axle sprocket is too big and may dig into track causing DNF. I would at least try the 12/61 combo, smaller driver should pick up alittle more rpm before the little one lifts. You using a stopwatch can compare on track positive and negatives between driver/driven combos.

this sounds like advice coming from a person who actually reads a gear ratio chart!

 

[kmoody6]

this sounds like advice coming from a person who actually reads a gear ratio chart!

Al,

Good to see your back.

I'll agree that most dirt oval racers gear according to tach data and only use a gear chart to reassure that the math they do in their head is right when changing clutch drivers. The ones that struggle the most only use max rpm for gear selection while the more successful guys look at rpm drop, min rpm, and max mph. The clutch driver has more affect on the rpm drop. Less rpm drop on the same ratio will yield faster lap times with no change in max rpm. But track conditions are the biggest influence as to being able to turn the bigger clutches.