drum clutch help

M

Mb248

New member
we are running a noram ge drum clutch on an unrestriced flathead/sportsman class. weight is 350. we had two different clutches start to lock up on us with two different drums. both were heavy shoes. we still have one left and it is a light shoe. my question is, what color springs do i need for it? i know engangement should be around 4k. the last one that burnt up had dark green springs. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
 
Anyone? We made another clutch change this last weekend and it did the same thing! Light shoes, purple springs, 13tooth drum.
 
well after we come off the track and get it on the stand, you can grab the axle and try to spin it but it will try to turn the motor over at the same time. i lube the needle bearing before every race event and this drum is only about five nights old. we have had three different noram clutches do this now and im starting to wonder if there another issue. the chain doesnt seem to be binding. definitely not too tight.
 
do you have any end play on the clutch?
The bolt and washer sometimes presses against the hub and you have to add a small dia. washer to alleviate that.
the drum needs some endplay on the hub also.
small dab of petroleum jelly for lubricant.
 
The only other thing I can think of is tightening the clutch down against the radius on the crankshaft and swelling the sleeve that is the inner race of the needle bearing. If this was happening tho, you would notice that the drum is hard to get off. IDK?
 
i will have to check on the endplay issue but what gets me is the clutch that locked up with the flathead saturday has been on my sons redplate clone since lid last year without any issues whatsoever.
 
as for the small washer you are talking about, can you explain that a little more? i run a couple different washers but mainly to keep the bolt from pulling through. like for example, 5/16" bolt with 5/16 flat washer and a 3/8 flat washer
 
i would say that is the cause of our issue! i know what i will be ordering this week!!! thank you for the help.
 
Mb248 said:
i would say that is the cause of our issue! i know what i will be ordering this week!!! thank you for the help.
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You can make a washer by beveling and radiusing a washer with a dremel.
If it has swelled your clutch, you may have to file/sand where the drum and needle bearing rides. Work slowly checking with a mic or good calipers. It probably won't extend very far in from the snap ring groove. Good Luck and Take Care...
 
i also have a new clutch coming too. better to be safe than sorry. went to a hilliard flame with bully conversion.
 
Mb248 said:
as for the small washer you are talking about, can you explain that a little more? i run a couple different washers but mainly to keep the bolt from pulling through. like for example, 5/16" bolt with 5/16 flat washer and a 3/8 flat washer
Click to expand...
in order to get end play you need a washer/shim with 5/16 id and 3/4 od (or a little less) under the other 2 .
As M. D. stated you may be pushing it up on the radius.
Running it inboard
hillard is much better anyway, although you have to watch for same issue.
 
Make sure that the bearing is not coming out of the drum. Happens frequently. Loc tite and press back in. I prefer the heavy shoes and purple springs in the smoothest shoe setting.
 
Mb248 said:
i also have a new clutch coming too. better to be safe than sorry. went to a hilliard flame with bully conversion.
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Whatever you do when you get the Flame before you do anything at all with it read all of the instructions and do exactly as they say!!!!! Make sure you clean the whole clutch before you use it! IT is in the instructions and needs to be done! 4 black springs will be good for you!
 
I fun a hillard Fury in a 425 weight class, and no problems. Two things 1 follow the instructions, and 2 don't over tighten the clutch bolt, and you'll be fine.
 
Well, it's a new clutch to us but we bought it used so there were no instructions with it. What should I be watching for?
 
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