Drum clutch settings

Collin

Member
I have a 15 tooth inferno blaze clutch with a predator motor. What color springs and what weights to use.
1/8 mile dirt track , box stock predator motor.
 
I run 4 orange in mine I like the low engagement on a box stock. You could run one weight per if you want but it works fine with just the spring swap.
 
I have a 15 tooth inferno blaze clutch with a predator motor. What color springs and what weights to use.
1/8 mile dirt track , box stock predator motor.
I know nothing about your clutch or engine , but that makes no difference, all clutches should hold any engine at peak torque coming off the line. Peak torque "to" the axle means peak HP "at" the axle
 
I know nothing about your clutch or engine , but that makes no difference, all clutches should hold any engine at peak torque coming off the line. Peak torque "to" the axle means peak HP "at" the axle
Al, with all respect I do agree for most cases especially on ovals or long road cases, but not for sprint tracks, where low stall clutches that engage at low rpms and act similar to a direct drive are more effective IMO. For example my P51 Comer with the original JICA low stall clutch is really fast and effective at the track I have been racing/testing for over 25 years in Spain. I could even be faster with that PP engine than with most reeds, It took me many years and a KZ top of the line shifter to beat those times last summer.
 
Yeah blaze and fury clutches in drum class. I also prefer to run them leading shoe. The engagement is smoother with less chatter
 
Al, with all respect I do agree for most cases especially on ovals or long road cases, but not for sprint tracks, where low stall clutches that engage at low rpms and act similar to a direct drive are more effective IMO. For example my P51 Comer with the original JICA low stall clutch is really fast and effective at the track I have been racing/testing for over 25 years in Spain. I could even be faster with that PP engine than with most reeds, It took me many years and a KZ top of the line shifter to beat those times last summer.
I appreciate your response, it's always enjoyable to read your posts. On this subject, I'm afraid our experiences are quite different. I braced McCullough's, Yamaha's and direct drive rotary valve. I've been in karting since 1966, I raced at 20 of those years. 10 years helping of the race, then about 15 years here on Bob's. I find it strange that we disagree on some things, especially the workings of the clutch, but that's what makes racing so much fun.
 
I appreciate your response, it's always enjoyable to read your posts. On this subject, I'm afraid our experiences are quite different. I braced McCullough's, Yamaha's and direct drive rotary valve. I've been in karting since 1966, I raced at 20 of those years. 10 years helping of the race, then about 15 years here on Bob's. I find it strange that we disagree on some things, especially the workings of the clutch, but that's what makes racing so much fun.
I do have much respect for you, and I haven't been so long in karting as you have, though I have raced for over 25 years around the world. One thing I have learned is that there is nothing that works for everyone, driving style makes a huge difference on how a clutch might work for each driver. Never raced McCullough's, Al, but anything else from Yamahas, reeds, rotaries, KZ shifters, 4 strokes and even a Wankel XR50 I own that for me is the perfect engine.
 
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W5R

New member​

I changed the shoes at the end of each season. 4 black springs will get you closer to the engagement you need, or you can stack springs, 4 black springs on bottom and 4 white springs on top may get you close to 4000, can't remember for sure with the Fury since we always used 4 black springs mostly. I switched to the flame and it was the best shoe clutch I had seen, uses weights along with springs which allows you to fine tune the engagement even more than the fury. You can update your fury with flame shoes and weight kit easily
 
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