I know nothing about your clutch or engine , but that makes no difference, all clutches should hold any engine at peak torque coming off the line. Peak torque "to" the axle means peak HP "at" the axleI have a 15 tooth inferno blaze clutch with a predator motor. What color springs and what weights to use.
1/8 mile dirt track , box stock predator motor.
Will that give it more out of the cornerI believe they are 8 lb/ft at 2500 or 2600 that 4 orange setup gets it locked up by 2600
You run the blaze with no weights?yeah that will help get ya rolling off corner and off starts a bit better
Al, with all respect I do agree for most cases especially on ovals or long road cases, but not for sprint tracks, where low stall clutches that engage at low rpms and act similar to a direct drive are more effective IMO. For example my P51 Comer with the original JICA low stall clutch is really fast and effective at the track I have been racing/testing for over 25 years in Spain. I could even be faster with that PP engine than with most reeds, It took me many years and a KZ top of the line shifter to beat those times last summer.I know nothing about your clutch or engine , but that makes no difference, all clutches should hold any engine at peak torque coming off the line. Peak torque "to" the axle means peak HP "at" the axle
I appreciate your response, it's always enjoyable to read your posts. On this subject, I'm afraid our experiences are quite different. I braced McCullough's, Yamaha's and direct drive rotary valve. I've been in karting since 1966, I raced at 20 of those years. 10 years helping of the race, then about 15 years here on Bob's. I find it strange that we disagree on some things, especially the workings of the clutch, but that's what makes racing so much fun.Al, with all respect I do agree for most cases especially on ovals or long road cases, but not for sprint tracks, where low stall clutches that engage at low rpms and act similar to a direct drive are more effective IMO. For example my P51 Comer with the original JICA low stall clutch is really fast and effective at the track I have been racing/testing for over 25 years in Spain. I could even be faster with that PP engine than with most reeds, It took me many years and a KZ top of the line shifter to beat those times last summer.
Yeah blaze and fury clutches in drum class. I also prefer to run them leading shoe. The engagement is smoother with less chatter
I have a blaze, want to switch to flame shoes.I believe there the sameThe Fire clutch has a larger drum to accommodate the friction material on the shoes.
I do have much respect for you, and I haven't been so long in karting as you have, though I have raced for over 25 years around the world. One thing I have learned is that there is nothing that works for everyone, driving style makes a huge difference on how a clutch might work for each driver. Never raced McCullough's, Al, but anything else from Yamahas, reeds, rotaries, KZ shifters, 4 strokes and even a Wankel XR50 I own that for me is the perfect engine.I appreciate your response, it's always enjoyable to read your posts. On this subject, I'm afraid our experiences are quite different. I braced McCullough's, Yamaha's and direct drive rotary valve. I've been in karting since 1966, I raced at 20 of those years. 10 years helping of the race, then about 15 years here on Bob's. I find it strange that we disagree on some things, especially the workings of the clutch, but that's what makes racing so much fun.
I heard the flame shoe is better, its got a wider contact path. Any ideasCan i replace the blaze shoes with the flame shoes? There all interchangeable correct?