Ec carburetor dual slotted caster plate questions

R

racerdad

Member
What purpose does the aluminum plate serve? Add strength or something else?

Also can anyone give me an idea of what caster and camber angle to weld them on at?

Here's a pic if it helps
 

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The steel plate welds to the frame. The aluminum plate bolts to the steel plate with a centering stud and 2 heims. This is how you adjust castor...notice the steel plate is slotted and the aluminum plate has 1/2" holes for the heims. The aluminum plate rotates front or back on the centering stud.

If it was me, I would weld the LF at 8* back, and the RF at 8* back. This way, when the aluminum plate is centered on the steel plate, you are at 8/8 castor, and can adjust up or down a good bit.
 
Is the plan to weld the plate vertical?
Keeping the plate would be my choice .
All you need is a range of 2* ..
If hiems are top and bottom you should have more then enough .
Typical left is +. 5 - 1* slim outside chance it would ever hit 1.5
Right - 1.5 too -3.5
 
So with the plate, your saying I'd have enough adjustment? I seen another design I almost went with that didn't use a plate. It had 1 hole at bottom and top was slotted farther than to make up for everything. I haven't messed a lot with my camber to see how much it would have
 
racerdad said:
Could run this without the aluminum plate, and have more camber adjustment, or is the plate that important
Click to expand...

You cant run it without the plate. The plate rotating on the center stud is what allows you to adjust the castor. If you didnt run the plate, you would have no way of accurately moving the heims forward (top slot) or back (bottom slot) evenly.
 
racerdad said:
So with the plate, your saying I'd have enough adjustment? I seen another design I almost went with that didn't use a plate. It had 1 hole at bottom and top was slotted farther than to make up for everything. I haven't messed a lot with my camber to see how much it would have
Click to expand...
Provided the plates welded on correctly. Yes .
 
Karts from the early to mid 2000's used this very setup. It was changed in favor of the L Block due to rigidity from the L Block being higher. But, this setup is still a leaps and bounds better than the system it replaced. Everyone has given great information, considering this was used prior means it's well within the capabilities of working to do everything you'd need it to do.
 
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