Moving the LF down wont add more front weight, it will just shift weight from side to side. The only way to get more nose weight is to move the seat and/or engine forward or to move existing ballast forward or add more ballast.
Eclipse Galaxy set up
- Thread starter Skidude
- Start date
Petty Race Engines
Member
I’m thinking that the kart won’t have rotation with 56 left, think you need to get the left up 58-58 1/2 %
Skidude
Member
Yes, you are correct. It’s pushing pretty bad. I don’t know what else to do to get the left side up other than add weight. He’s in a 290 class and crosses the scale at 296 with no weight added. I guess giving up whatever weight we need to get it right is better than a kart that won’t handle. It enters the turn well and pushes bad coming out.
I did move the seat forward at the track.
racing promotor
Moderator
You need to increase nose to 46 % min, increase left to 57 % to 57.5 %, I'd lower the cross to 64 % don't worry about giving up a few more lbs of total weight.
What size track ? how much rear stagger ?
racing promotor
Moderator
Why the added gear ? just to hit your target RPM because of it not handling building any momentum ?
we never hit max rpm's at Dannys, when we run Jr2 or Jr3, we always went by drop rpms and run less gearing there. most of the time a 63/64 for jr2 and a 62/63 for jr3. good track figure one more drop in gear. we won a lot of races there not worrying about gear or rpms, i would say most of the time we run there between 6100 and 6200 rpm was our average rpm range and up to 6400 and 6500 at other tracks. 57 to 57.5 left, 47 to 47.5 nose and 61.5 to 62.5 cross
Skidude
Member
Added gear because he’s just not carrying enough speed to warrant a taller ratio. Best lap so far only hit 5900 RPM. Once he’s consistently at 6100 or more I’ll start dropping teeth.
racing promotor
Moderator
No sense chasing gearing on a kart that's not handling, your just chasing your tail gotta get the kart stable.
Skidude
Member
That’s why he’s still running an 18/68.
racing promotor
Moderator
But your already chasing it at that your 4 teeth more on the rear than most everyone else, your not going to make any more power there so why do it.
alvin l nunley
Site Supporter
Maybe so, but you may be able to pull Everyone else off the corner Enough that they can't catch you on the top. Might help you through the corner too. Hard to tell either way.
racing promotor
Moderator
You'll NEVER make up with gearing what your lacking in handling, to pull through and off the corner you need rotation a push is far from that, actually the xtra teeth is hurting pull off the turn because he's gear bound not making any power anyway.
alvin l nunley
Site Supporter
Hard for me to understand how you could be gear bound out of the corner! Of course, stupid me, still has trouble understanding what gear bound is!
racing promotor
Moderator
The only things hard for you to understand is what you choose not to !!
Petty Race Engines
Member
Al, he’s on a 18 driver so this tells me it a larger dirt oval... trying to beat someone off the corner is just plain ridiculous... oval racing you have to be the fastest at the end of the straight and carry that speed through the corners.. otherwise you’re sitting duck !!
Petty Race Engines
Member
Have you moved the seat left and forward any at all, also make sure that the engine is as far left and forward.. if those changes have been made your only other option is adding the weight, I would worry so much with adding in the nose to get the nose % up to 46%, once you’ve done this the push most likely will go away.. XXX40 can sometimes be a smarty but he knows these eclipse and the infinity’s very well
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alvin l nunley
Site Supporter
If we can get the actual total kart and driver weight straight (I've seen 3) it might help. . Track size, across the infield, also track width, we can get closer to establishing a correct stagger.
Push is caused by; too little front bite or too much rear bite.
Loose is caused by; too much front bite or too little rear bite.
Of course this is just a general rule of thumb.
Gear ratio; add a tooth to the rear, pick up 100 RPM, same top speed. Not exactly, but close. Depends on the gear ratio. Take a tooth off, lose 100 RPM, same speed on the top.
Compression is the Holy Grail, have you checked yours lately? Few things (stock class) will get you more HP than more compression.
Notwithstanding what some people say about it, air density makes a difference, do you have a gauge? You need proof; have you ever seen a dyno that didn't say "corrected horsepower"? They're talking about corrected to the ambient barometric pressure and temperature, "air density". A simple conclusion, more HP, more speed.
If we can get the actual total kart and driver weight straight (I've seen 3) it might help. . Track size, across the infield, also track width, we can get closer to establishing a correct stagger.
Push is caused by; too little front bite or too much rear bite.
Loose is caused by; too much front bite or too little rear bite.
Of course this is just a general rule of thumb.
Gear ratio; add a tooth to the rear, pick up 100 RPM, same top speed. Not exactly, but close. Depends on the gear ratio. Take a tooth off, lose 100 RPM, same speed on the top.
Compression is the Holy Grail, have you checked yours lately? Few things (stock class) will get you more HP than more compression.
Notwithstanding what some people say about it, air density makes a difference, do you have a gauge? You need proof; have you ever seen a dyno that didn't say "corrected horsepower"? They're talking about corrected to the ambient barometric pressure and temperature, "air density". A simple conclusion, more HP, more speed.
If we can get the actual total kart and driver weight straight (I've seen 3) it might help. . Track size, across the infield, also track width, we can get closer to establishing a correct stagger.
Last edited by a moderator: