Eclipse Galaxy set up

Skidude

Member
We’ve been working at getting this JR2 kart dialed in. Here are the numbers I got from Eddie, 59% left, 46% nose, 68% cross, -2.5 RF camber, .5 LF camber, caster centered on the blocks. Stagger 1.5” front, 1” rear. We have the front end geometry right. Here is where we are at 300 lbs. The driver is 115lbs and I’ve added 4lbs on the LF bumper and 7lbs on the left seat toward the rear.

52.8 LF. 81.6 RF

119.7 LR. 45.9 RR

57.5% left
44.8% nose
67.1% cross

The LF spindle has about 6 washer on top and we will have to move the left side panel up to keep the fairing off the tire. Tire in very close.
The RF spindle is one washer from being on the bottom. Tire can move in 1/8” if needed.
The LR is about 1/4” off the frame.
The RR is about 1.5” off the frame, hub against the snap ring.

I’m trying to figure out what to move to get it right. I don’t want to keep adding lead as he is already giving up 10 lbs with what I’ve added so far. How can I get that last 4 lbs off the RR and get it where it belongs? If I move the seat any further left he won’t be able to get his leg between the seat and the steering wheel to get in the kart. It’s offset a good bit right now, not inline with the steering shaft. The engine mount is using the center holes on an International PMI mount and slid all the way left.

My goal is:
55.5 LF. 82.5 RF

121.5 LR. 40.5RR

Maybe I’m close enough. We won’t be able to try it on the track until Dec. 4th and 5th.
 
rear tires are not correct, rr should only be 3/16 off the frame, lr will be about an inch off frame.
move the seat forward till its almost touching the steering upright this should bring the nose % up some
The seat center-line should run from the brake rotor through the steering upright.
for a 115 lb person bottom of seat even with the top of the frame rail , seat back about 8.75 off the axle.
RR seat strut should be as near as 4 inches as you can get off the inside motor rail
 
rear tires are not correct, rr should only be 3/16 off the frame, lr will be about an inch off frame.
move the seat forward till its almost touching the steering upright this should bring the nose % up some
I’ll study that option in the morning. I had to move it back so he could get in the seat. I’ll see if I can ease it forward a bit and see if he can still get in it.
 
I’ll study that option in the morning. I had to move it back so he could get in the seat. I’ll see if I can ease it forward a bit and see if he can still get in it.
I help build those karts, Eddie didnt build them, they were built by Ward karting where I worked/sponsored by for 9 years.
The seat has to be mounted this way, when the seat is mounted correctly he should have to shoe horn down in it.
Your rear tire spacing is all kinds of screwed up as well, correcting it will bring up your LS%
 
I help build those karts, Eddie didnt build them, they were built by Ward karting where I worked/sponsored by for 9 years.
The seat has to be mounted this way, when the seat is mounted correctly he should have to shoe horn down in it.
Your rear tire spacing is all kinds of screwed up as well, correcting it will bring up your LS%
Thanks for the info. I talked to Mike about a month ago but didn’t write down what he told me, 😕. I’m trying to get some spare spindles from him also; 7* on the left and a 15* right. However, right now there is a 7.5 Triton spindle on the left. The difference, other than .5*, is the wheel place. It is 3/8” further from the frame to keep the wheel from rubbing the arm. The correct spindle should add a bit to the LF.
 
if its a galaxy it should have a 10/10 spindle setup, not 7.5/15
It’s definitely a 7/15 set up. When I talked to Mike he said somebody probably changed it. There are no markings on the caster blocks but the left spindle is stamped 7 and the right, no stamp, but has substantial angle downward.

I did question Eddie about it being a Galaxy. I sent him pics and he said it was a Galaxy. Here is what I sent.
 

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It’s definitely a 7/15 set up. When I talked to Mike he said somebody probably changed it. There are no markings on the caster blocks but the left spindle is stamped 7 and the right, no stamp, but has substantial angle downward.

I did question Eddie about it being a Galaxy. I sent him pics and he said it was a Galaxy. Here is what I sent.
Thats a galaxy somewhere between 08-09.
Yeah someone changed the Spindles/L blocks, id switch back to the 10/10, you can keep the 7/15 but the chassis was built around a 10/10 setup
 
Thats a galaxy somewhere between 08-09.
Yeah someone changed the Spindles/L blocks, id switch back to the 10/10, you can keep the 7/15 but the chassis was built around a 10/10 setup
I may just do that if I can get them from Mike. Do you know what effect the 7/15 will have compared to the 10/10?
 
When I built my first kart, 1973, it had no kingpin inclination. I'll tell you how I came to the conclusion to do that.

Hold the rear end up until the kingpin is straightup and down. Turn the wheel back and forth. As you turn the wheel to the left, the tire goes down, as you turn the wheel to the right, the tire goes down. On a car, with very little caster, that kingpin inclination helps to make the car go straight without the tires wobbling. With a kart, with increased caster, there's no need for kingpin inclination, especially with the spindles as long as we make them. Besides that, if the spindle yoke is at 10°, then you camber the spindle 2 1/2°, it's even less beneficial. I built my first kart with 0° kingpin inclination. It was a superior handling kart. There were other features that I'm sure contributed to that handling, but zero kingpin inclination was not a detriment. Be sure kingpin inclination subtracts from the handling on a kart. I believe in your case, with 15° kingpin inclination, it's even worse. Hard to prove that I know, but it's worth some consideration.

My philosophy; unless it sounds totally ridiculous, try, or at least consider, everything you hear.

Just yesterday I saw a video, either here or on kartPlus where a guy was explaining all the setup features on his kart. His set of showed little resemblance to anything I've seen here on Bob's. This guy wins races, so it makes me wonder. His ideas were radical departures from what I've seen. Corner weights, camber caster inclination weight, all different.??? Just makes me wonder.
LOL the dude won a race against two other clueless souls, on an ill prepared back yard track.
He was offered to come to a local sanctioned track and he declined.
good grief youre clueless to dirt oval, and this post just proves it yet again
 
rear tires are not correct, rr should only be 3/16 off the frame, lr will be about an inch off frame.
move the seat forward till its almost touching the steering upright this should bring the nose % up some
The seat center-line should run from the brake rotor through the steering upright.
for a 115 lb person bottom of seat even with the top of the frame rail , seat back about 8.75 off the axle.
RR seat strut should be as near as 4 inches as you can get off the inside motor rail

I made the adjustments to the wheels and the RR seat strut is 5” off the inside motor rail. I’m now at
45.5 LF. 83 RF
119.5 LF. 46 RR
56% L, 44%N, 68.9%X, versus a goal of 59%L, 46%N, 68%X.
It got to cold out, my grandson was freezing. I think I’ll move a washer or two on the LF to take some cross out and shift the seat forward just a bit. We’ll see what happens Thursday evening.

Thanks for everyone’s help.
 
All you did was move wheels ?
Not much really changed you lost left and gained cross .
Something doesn't seem right .
 
All you did was move wheels ?
Not much really changed you lost left and gained cross .
Something doesn't seem right .

Yes, it did what I expected, moved weight right. I moved the RR toward the frame 7/16 and the LR away from the frame 7/16. That was all I could move, RR 3/16 from frame and LR on the snap ring. The increase in cross allows me to move the LF down a bit, adding weight to the front. We’ll play with it at the track then re-scale it and see where we are.
 
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