egt on kt100

Sounds like you are on the right track. Your correct about the wet line. You can see it. Don't be afraid to push the rpm past 13k. On dirt oval we often were at the 14k area. Direct drive sprint twist them way up the scale.

The late great George Clausen an expert KT builder from Iowa taught me how to tune the WB3a. The sweet spot on the high speed was about an eighth to a quarter. Start with the low speed at 3/4, hit the track at 1&1/4 for pace laps, open to 1&1/2 for the start, open 1/4 after two laps, another after two more, fine tune + or - an eighth and back to 1&1/4 for yellows. Start over at 1&1/2 for the restart and go from there. Takes a little getting used too but comes after some time. On the yellows don't be afraid to quickly turn the low speed donw to the stop and back open to get your bearings if you get lost. At our track all the Junior 2 kids had this down pat.

Always knew the carb was right when egt was 1.1k, head temp was about 390 (old style head) and the plug after the race was clean white with a nice yellow ring about half way down the insulator. Never seized a KT with any of the kids after hundreds and hundreds of races.

DK
 
Sounds like you are on the right track. Your correct about the wet line. You can see it. Don't be afraid to push the rpm past 13k. On dirt oval we often were at the 14k area. Direct drive sprint twist them way up the scale.

The late great George Clausen an expert KT builder from Iowa taught me how to tune the WB3a. The sweet spot on the high speed was about an eighth to a quarter. Start with the low speed at 3/4, hit the track at 1&1/4 for pace laps, open to 1&1/2 for the start, open 1/4 after two laps, another after two more, fine tune + or - an eighth and back to 1&1/4 for yellows. Start over at 1&1/2 for the restart and go from there. Takes a little getting used too but comes after some time. On the yellows don't be afraid to quickly turn the low speed donw to the stop and back open to get your bearings if you get lost. At our track all the Junior 2 kids had this down pat.

Always knew the carb was right when egt was 1.1k, head temp was about 390 (old style head) and the plug after the race was clean white with a nice yellow ring about half way down the insulator. Never seized a KT with any of the kids after hundreds and hundreds of races.

DK
Great info thanks for sharing....now, to start working on that hand/needle coordination....:)
 
raced the other night, finally have time to look at this closer on my own kart today, would you define "wet line" as the point inside the flex where there is an obvious difference in color from end to the other from where there is dark to light, or should there maybe be some unburned excess fuel sitting in there? BTW, ran it on a mixture of 8oz burris hi-rev to1 gallon of VP C12, max rpm was right at 13,000 and EGT max temp was 1120...Thx!

Is there a particular reason why you choose C12? IMHO that is probably one of the worst fuels for a KT motor.
 
wondering what temp range is desired on a mychron egt lead on a superstock kt100 with RLV L4 pipe, walbro wb3a carb on gas and on alcohol...Thx!
This is kind of a long explanation, sorry about that. The EGT reading is not a "one temp fits all"! At peak torque, where the engine and pipe are doing their best job, the EGT might read lower versus on the top-end. On a high air density day, it might read higher versus a low air density day. Wherever you see it going lower, on the low-end or the high-end, (with a pipe, there could be a big difference) the 1st thing you do is richin it up. If the EGT goes up, that means it was lean. If the EGT goes down, that means you were rich and you're getting richer. Go the other way. Always try to maintain the highest (maybe just a little below) reading on the EGT as you can. Both on the low end and top end. You might see 1100+ at the end of the straight and only 800+ coming off a turn. Somewhere in that area. With a Can exhaust, those numbers might be closer together. Just be aware of the EGT numbers on the 1st lap, or 2nd lap, if, after the engine starts to get up to operating temperature, if those numbers go down, you must richen the carb. If they go down farther, lean the carb. You'll get the hang of it. Don't be fooled if you see different numbers during the day. The Air Density changes, and that has a big affect on EGT temps.
 
With gasoline, there is no set temperature, you run it as hot as you can, maybe just a little less. If you get too lean, the gasoline will start to detonate, and the EGT will read less. If you see the EGT going down, it's best to richen the carb up 1st. If it was lean, the temperature will come back up, otherwise it will go down further. I'm pretty sure alcohol will react in the same way. EGT is going to change with the ambient temperature. Hot days it will be lower, cool days it will be higher.
It's called tuning, and tuning is tough. (Al Nunley) Be aware, the EGT reacts very quickly, sometimes, coming off a corner, because you're right at peak torque, and because the pipe is creating a high pressure in the cylinder, the EGT will read lower. Detonation can because by excessive heat and/or pressure. On the 2nd or 3rd lap, if you see the EGT reading lower on the low-end, richen up the low-speed.
 
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