Yeti Racing
New member
Based on all the post I've read, you're the man to ask JICA questions. I'm 230 lbs. and wanna start with a durable, reliable engine without breaking the bank. I'm considering a Parilla PV92 for purchase. Can you offer any feeback on the Parilla PV92 or your suggestions/opinions on other engines? - gmancamp73
I'm embarrassingly & humbly flattered Thank you . You omitted whether it was UAS, enduro, or sprint but here goes. INMO - for best value CLASS stock competitive racing u can't beat a 14 - 19hp Yamaha if u weigh UNDER 150#. U DON"T. For best value RWYB/Outlaw competitive racing u can't beat most any (OOTB stock- out of the box) JICA 24hp (official class discontinued) 100cc UNDER 175#. You can't beat either one for value (Both will hammer nails all day, all season, & all year long w/o re-build, given appropriate maintenance/care) for practice 2 stroke racing skill sharpening practice engines, bc (hypothetically w/ all things being equal) turning lower lap times than your competitor utilizing substantially less HP should translate to you being the more efficient driver, notwithstanding race competition traffic/passing. skills & compensating for in-race mechanical set-backs) Both are $250 - $400 (used) simple piston ports & durable as hell & HP can be increased by 5 - 30% for an additional approximate $75/hp w/ your best value HP increase derived from fuel type, pipe, and carbe, respectively in descending order (notwithstanding, many work matched in conjunction with each other) with a pp 100cc max HP ceiling of approx 35hp. That being said, IMHO - at over 200#, for race competitive purposes, you shouldn't consider any engine under 32hp (i.e. stock late model triple collision port 100cc reed/rotary) w/ same HP increase parameters as aforementioned with a 100cc reed/rotary max HP ceiling of approx 44hp. JMHO - At 230#, you should consider a min 36hp 115cc reed/rotary, but if I had my druthers, & value for the long run, I'd like to see you acquire a stock 34hp a/c (air-cooled) 125cc -135cc reed/rotary bc it would give u competitive HP headroom (62hp max) to grow (notwithstanding the option of a dual 100cc engine rig down the road). *** Note ***All the above is 2 smoke a/c engine focused opinion, as I don't favor water cooled or 4 stroke at this time. - JMHO * for Any engines/parts/rebuilds/custom made parts/machine work/HP development PM me anytime and I'll give my very best to further your karting experience . Thank you for your trust & consideration.
**JMHO - In the interest of goodwill, to eliminate redundant PM's, and for all interested parties, I believe posting this for general discussion would be of value for the karting community.
I'm embarrassingly & humbly flattered Thank you . You omitted whether it was UAS, enduro, or sprint but here goes. INMO - for best value CLASS stock competitive racing u can't beat a 14 - 19hp Yamaha if u weigh UNDER 150#. U DON"T. For best value RWYB/Outlaw competitive racing u can't beat most any (OOTB stock- out of the box) JICA 24hp (official class discontinued) 100cc UNDER 175#. You can't beat either one for value (Both will hammer nails all day, all season, & all year long w/o re-build, given appropriate maintenance/care) for practice 2 stroke racing skill sharpening practice engines, bc (hypothetically w/ all things being equal) turning lower lap times than your competitor utilizing substantially less HP should translate to you being the more efficient driver, notwithstanding race competition traffic/passing. skills & compensating for in-race mechanical set-backs) Both are $250 - $400 (used) simple piston ports & durable as hell & HP can be increased by 5 - 30% for an additional approximate $75/hp w/ your best value HP increase derived from fuel type, pipe, and carbe, respectively in descending order (notwithstanding, many work matched in conjunction with each other) with a pp 100cc max HP ceiling of approx 35hp. That being said, IMHO - at over 200#, for race competitive purposes, you shouldn't consider any engine under 32hp (i.e. stock late model triple collision port 100cc reed/rotary) w/ same HP increase parameters as aforementioned with a 100cc reed/rotary max HP ceiling of approx 44hp. JMHO - At 230#, you should consider a min 36hp 115cc reed/rotary, but if I had my druthers, & value for the long run, I'd like to see you acquire a stock 34hp a/c (air-cooled) 125cc -135cc reed/rotary bc it would give u competitive HP headroom (62hp max) to grow (notwithstanding the option of a dual 100cc engine rig down the road). *** Note ***All the above is 2 smoke a/c engine focused opinion, as I don't favor water cooled or 4 stroke at this time. - JMHO * for Any engines/parts/rebuilds/custom made parts/machine work/HP development PM me anytime and I'll give my very best to further your karting experience . Thank you for your trust & consideration.
**JMHO - In the interest of goodwill, to eliminate redundant PM's, and for all interested parties, I believe posting this for general discussion would be of value for the karting community.
