Box Stock

Explain this please

Quick easy fairly accurate method of determining center to center pin distance:

Tools needed calculator, caliper.

Measure piston pin bore enter in caliper, measure crank pin bore add to pin bore, divide by two, measure straight line from lower side of pin bore to upper side of crank pin bore ad to the number in calculator. This is the CtoC distance.

Yes I know there are better ways.
 
496, I'm confused why you didn't just toss a billet rod into a complete Hemi predator? Why the 730 engine with the Hemi piston?
 
I had same thing happen too me .my predator was 30 in the hole with stock rod and dish piston. I got a hemi flat top and 20 long rod came out 50 in the hole . so I had too mill the block problem solved..
 
Just measured. Hemi pistons are .020" shorter from wrist pin top to top of piston. My rod is a +.020" as measured. Maybe there should be a sticky about this or others can please confirm this.
 
rkcarguy said:
496, I'm confused why you didn't just toss a billet rod into a complete Hemi predator? Why the 730 engine with the Hemi piston?
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The older style predator blocks are much better casting than the Hemi blocks is one reason that most of us prefer the old style predator, 69730. I prefer a better quality casting than having the advantage of using the clone cams in the predators and having a flat top piston. The head is the main reason people are buying the hemi engines, if not just the hype. Itll die down sooner or later when people start realizing that the old style predators are the better quality ones.
 
I agree the casting looks better on the old Predator, but I have a Hemi block that shows 26hp on my dyno, turns 8000+, with a fair amount of run time with no issues. I did brace it up some. I also have another hemi predator that makes 20hp on my dyno, and has a pile of running, no problems.
 
helpful hint ,,, imo and many machinist will say the same , calipers are not the device of choice for precision measurement. anything that needs to read accurate under .003 (3 thousandths) and calipers is all you have, you MUST be very consistent in the way you apply pressure to them, if your measuring depths you need to be square each time you do it . for depth checks I recommend a flat block with a with some 3/16 holes , 1 in center and one on each end so you can stand calipers on end and measure center and near the outer edges of the piston. just tryin to help, jack
 
youngengines said:
I agree the casting looks better on the old Predator, but I have a Hemi block that shows 26hp on my dyno, turns 8000+, with a fair amount of run time with no issues. I did brace it up some. I also have another hemi predator that makes 20hp on my dyno, and has a pile of running, no problems.
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That's the thing, I'd rather drill some holes in some aluminum and brace things up than have to mess around with everything else inside the engine. Sneaks, young, and a few others have proven the Hemi is the best bang for the buck. Add a rod, toss in your favorite cam, head of your choice and go.
 
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