Favorite Cam for Big Tracks?

Still hard to beat a 96-3 for big momentum ovals.
With a good flowing block and carb, you can throw a sheet over most all of these grinds at the finish line - just move the graph to the right or left a couple hundred rpm.


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It is not really a momentum track. 7-800 drop with long straights. I am thinking on the cam that stops pulling as high as possible. Is there an advantage to the 96-3 over the 96-3OM. I see that the 07-03 is the only one that Dyno lists to 7000. It is also at a high weight. 425Lbs.. Thanks to all of you.
 
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It is not really a momentum track. 7-800 drop with long straights. I am thinking on the cam that stops pulling as high as possible. Is there an advantage to the 96-3 over the 96-3OM. I see that the 07-03 is the only one that Dyno lists to 7000. Thanks to all of you.
Why is it a fad now to be chasing max rpm? All high rpm will do is shorten the life between rebuilds. Also i doubt you will find 7000 benefits you with an 07-3. Unless you happen to have an exceptionally flowing carb. 6800 is the best place to run that cam according to most guys here. It can be done but you gotta have your ducks in a row.
 
Why is it a fad now to be chasing max rpm? All high rpm will do is shorten the life between rebuilds. Also i doubt you will find 7000 benefits you with an 07-3. Unless you happen to have an exceptionally flowing carb. 6800 is the best place to run that cam according to most guys here. It can be done but you gotta have your ducks in a row.
Not necessarily seeking 7000. Just noticed that 7000 was in the Dyno book on that cam. Flatheads are new to me (again) and I am looking for a more up to date perspective, if anything has in fact changed. Back years ago we won a lot of races turning only 62-6400 (at 300-350 Lbs.). The 7X was the only Dyno cam I have any experience with, used to like the Zoomer Z800R2 back when I could get it.
 
Personally i would say not much has changed . The clone and class structure changed and further development stopped .
Maybe a few machining techniques even that was pretty well developed .
 
Rpm can be setup differently depending on your valves and springs how they are setup, a lot more than just the cam itself. A lot of these cams are hard on the block and valve guide areas so keep that in mind if your not using a raptor 4 block or block that has not been welded up around the valve area it could crack the block
 
I have built up some flatheads recently after not touching them for years. I used to build some that were damn good yet my recent efforts suck. Asking around I was told a couple of things. #1 Carbs are much better. But my flow bench didn't show it as I wasted money on some new "great" carbs. #2 Lots of cheater cams out there. Didn't seem to be true because I don't think there is much cheating in karts and cams really have not been so available that so many cheater cams would be out there. I have finally decided that my problem is in valve springs. In the past I always used the comp Gp958 springs in all applications. Those are no longer made so I ordered multiple Dyno springs of all types and set springs by installed pressure while also trying several grinds. Not working. So my plan over the winter is to experiment with one cam and one spring. Probabaly 7X, 07-3 or 04-3 with 1420 springs.
 
If you feel you need to turn rpm, the 04-3 would be my go to cam. Conditions apply -- that you have a VERY good flowing block and excellent flowing carb (an average one will not cut it) and that you have plenty of time on a dyno to play with ignition timing. That cam, in particular, is very finicky on timing. I've had motors run great with very little timing and others with a ton of advance. Some of that depends on how much your coil retards as well. 04-3 is definitely NOT plug-n-play performance. Great cam that wills till make power @ 7200, but you had better really have a lot of patience. :)

The 96-3OM is based on an earlier version of the cam that will float the valves harder/sooner because of the smaller base circle. I'm sure Randy can explain it better, but that's been my understanding and experience.

Getting valve springs right in a stocker has always been a challenge. What spring to start with, what depth to cut the back-facing, what upper shims (if any) does it need, etc. One thing for sure, when it's right, write it down. Every rebuild after that, duplicate the springs as best as you can.
 
The 96-3 or 04-3 works well on most tracks, in general. Playing around with timing for a certain track does help. Places that still run the flathead is hard to find. Have 2 stock appearing and 9 wka flathead engine, fresh, ready and nowhere to go. Have 3 others ready to build and have enough parts to build 4 more if can find IC blocks.
 
It was reliably reported to me (15 or so years ago) that Tod Miller used to buy 95-3 classic grinds in lots of 25. :)
Just sayin'
 
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