Just for fun, I took the percentages for superheavy and put the highest recommended numbers into my corner weights spreadsheet. F 46, L 61, C 70. The rear cross (and I know everybody thinks that's a useless number) was -269.6% L – R. Meaning the left was that much heavier, percentagewise, than the right.Just an observation here.
https://ultramaxracing.com/DOWNLOAD-1/SET-UP-SHEETS/SET-UP-SHEET-RIVAL.pdf
Its definitely not loose on entry, but my bigger issue right now is the push on exit. I tried to change my style up different ways and it seemed to not change a whole lot. I tried driving in deep and hard on the brake, rolling in easy to get on the throttle sooner, I tried whipping it in to intentionally slide the rear out, in all of those situations, it still pushed like a truck.I'm surprised nobody has asked if its pushing on entry or corner exit?
I don't know if that means anything, I've never tried it, but it does occur to me that with that much weight on the LR, your stagger better be right!Just an observation here.
https://ultramaxracing.com/DOWNLOAD-1/SET-UP-SHEETS/SET-UP-SHEET-RIVAL.pdf
I am working towards getting that 240 back down into the 190s low 200s like it was a year ago. Got a desk job, and got a little extra padding along with it. I guess getting the kart lighter is a little extra motivation.So I looked last night, the seat is about an inch from contacting the post. My only concern is that I'm 6'3" 240lbs, and Im not sure I would fit if I moved the seat up. Its pretty tight for me as it is.
Post #1 he confirms he was slinging rear into turn on entry to help get it through the middle. But your right I usually confirm details 100% as it now looks like I should of here since he's saying Push is worse off. But with out scale numbers and cambers it's a crap shoot.I'm surprised nobody has asked if its pushing on entry or corner exit?
I'll get some scale numbers tonight. My first thought depending on the numbers is to go to what U-max says it should be and then work from there.Post #1 he confirms he was slinging rear into turn on entry to help get it through the middle. But your right I usually confirm details 100% as it now looks like I should of here since he's saying Push is worse off. But with out scale numbers and cambers it's a crap shoot.
If I missed it sorry but what size track ? on a scale of 1 - 10 how well does it grip up ?I'll get some scale numbers tonight. My first thought depending on the numbers is to go to what U-max says it should be and then work from there.
Straight aways are around 250ft, Id say total its about an 1/8th mile maybe a bit larger. Red clay, normally gets pretty hard, Id say grips up to about a 7 by feature time.If I missed it sorry but what size track ? on a scale of 1 - 10 how well does it grip up ?
I plan to scale it as it was Saturday so that I know what not to do in the future. I will have to see if I can make 1 1/4" rear stagger happen. I am actually somewhat interested in what the nose numbers are as both spindles are almost bottomed out. I believe the the LF had 2 thicks and a thin under it, and the RF had 1 thick and 1 thin under it.First make sure scale pads are all 100 % level including across corners, and are solid no blocking that will cause a cushion. Then I would scale kart as it is now with air pressure set of course, and note all the numbers, Then make sure your staggers are set I'd set front at 1 1/2 " and rear at 1 1/4 " for 1/8 th mile, then set air pressure say 5 lb left and 6 lb rights, put wheels & tires on kart check rear hub spacing RR 3/16 " from inside edge of the wheel to the cassette hanger, and LR 3/4 " off hanger, If there not correct move before setting numbers. I would start it out slightly more stable than Idea numbers with, 57.75 % left, 46 % nose,
Check it where it's at BUT you don't want to adjust nose weight in that manor, you want washers more even and move only to adjust cross, count washers later and let us know.I plan to scale it as it was Saturday so that I know what not to do in the future. I will have to see if I can make 1 1/4" rear stagger happen. I am actually somewhat interested in what the nose numbers are as both spindles are almost bottomed out. I believe the the LF had 2 thicks and a thin under it, and the RF had 1 thick and 1 thin under it.
Theoretically, that should have me pretty close to max nose weight without any other variables being considered correct? Since the frame would be close to as high as it can go?
I'll get the numbers this evening after work.
Camber wise, it doesn't look crazy compared to others, but I will try to get it measured somehow.
Will doCheck it where it's at BUT you don't want to adjust nose weight in that manor, you want washers more even and move only to adjust cross, count washers later and let us know.
no, both spindles raised as high as they will go, will lower the front rake on the chassis and raise the nose% a little, having the frame as high as it will go will slow/delay weight transfer.I plan to scale it as it was Saturday so that I know what not to do in the future. I will have to see if I can make 1 1/4" rear stagger happen. I am actually somewhat interested in what the nose numbers are as both spindles are almost bottomed out. I believe the the LF had 2 thicks and a thin under it, and the RF had 1 thick and 1 thin under it.
Theoretically, that should have me pretty close to max nose weight without any other variables being considered correct? Since the frame would be close to as high as it can go?
I'll get the numbers this evening after work.
Camber wise, it doesn't look crazy compared to others, but I will try to get it measured somehow.