Front End Adjustments

Just for fun, I took the percentages for superheavy and put the highest recommended numbers into my corner weights spreadsheet. F 46, L 61, C 70. The rear cross (and I know everybody thinks that's a useless number) was -269.6% L – R. Meaning the left was that much heavier, percentagewise, than the right.
I don't know if that means anything, I've never tried it, but it does occur to me that with that much weight on the LR, your stagger better be right!
 
So I looked last night, the seat is about an inch from contacting the post. My only concern is that I'm 6'3" 240lbs, and Im not sure I would fit if I moved the seat up. Its pretty tight for me as it is.

I'm surprised nobody has asked if its pushing on entry or corner exit?
Its definitely not loose on entry, but my bigger issue right now is the push on exit. I tried to change my style up different ways and it seemed to not change a whole lot. I tried driving in deep and hard on the brake, rolling in easy to get on the throttle sooner, I tried whipping it in to intentionally slide the rear out, in all of those situations, it still pushed like a truck.

I am going to try and find some scales to use tonight or tomorrow to get some numbers.
 
So I looked last night, the seat is about an inch from contacting the post. My only concern is that I'm 6'3" 240lbs, and Im not sure I would fit if I moved the seat up. Its pretty tight for me as it is.
I am working towards getting that 240 back down into the 190s low 200s like it was a year ago. Got a desk job, and got a little extra padding along with it. I guess getting the kart lighter is a little extra motivation.
 
Driving style has a lot to do with it to. I see you tried a few different strategies but believe me at speed lifting a foot before your normal spot or driving it in a foot past your normal spot is huge... if it was me and I’m no expert by a long shot... I would of tried either sliding the LR tire out 1/2 inch to see if that helped or dropped a pound out of the RF.
 
I'm surprised nobody has asked if its pushing on entry or corner exit?
Post #1 he confirms he was slinging rear into turn on entry to help get it through the middle. But your right I usually confirm details 100% as it now looks like I should of here since he's saying Push is worse off. But with out scale numbers and cambers it's a crap shoot.
 
Post #1 he confirms he was slinging rear into turn on entry to help get it through the middle. But your right I usually confirm details 100% as it now looks like I should of here since he's saying Push is worse off. But with out scale numbers and cambers it's a crap shoot.
I'll get some scale numbers tonight. My first thought depending on the numbers is to go to what U-max says it should be and then work from there.
 
Just to clarify raising and lowering.
You want to raise the FRAME at the corner where you want more weight. This will require (on the Front) more washers on top and fewer on the bottom, so in effect you lower the spindle within in the knuckle, which in turn raises the frame.
The LF will have more washers on the bottom than the top and that corner of the frame will be lower.
Each washer is a couple of % up or down.
 
First make sure scale pads are all 100 % level including across corners, and are solid no blocking that will cause a cushion. Then I would scale kart as it is now with air pressure set of course, and note all the numbers, Then make sure your staggers are set I'd set front at 1 1/2 " and rear at 1 1/4 " for 1/8 th mile, then set air pressure say 5 lb left and 6 lb rights, put wheels & tires on kart check rear hub spacing RR 3/16 " from inside edge of the wheel to the cassette hanger, and LR 3/4 " off hanger, If there not correct move before setting numbers. I would start it out slightly more stable than Idea numbers with, 57.75 % left, 46 % nose,
 
You can somewhat eye ball camber on the RF if you don't have a gauge right now. If it looks like its got a bunch compared to what everyone else is running take some out and it will help with push/tight off
 
First make sure scale pads are all 100 % level including across corners, and are solid no blocking that will cause a cushion. Then I would scale kart as it is now with air pressure set of course, and note all the numbers, Then make sure your staggers are set I'd set front at 1 1/2 " and rear at 1 1/4 " for 1/8 th mile, then set air pressure say 5 lb left and 6 lb rights, put wheels & tires on kart check rear hub spacing RR 3/16 " from inside edge of the wheel to the cassette hanger, and LR 3/4 " off hanger, If there not correct move before setting numbers. I would start it out slightly more stable than Idea numbers with, 57.75 % left, 46 % nose,
I plan to scale it as it was Saturday so that I know what not to do in the future. I will have to see if I can make 1 1/4" rear stagger happen. I am actually somewhat interested in what the nose numbers are as both spindles are almost bottomed out. I believe the the LF had 2 thicks and a thin under it, and the RF had 1 thick and 1 thin under it.

Theoretically, that should have me pretty close to max nose weight without any other variables being considered correct? Since the frame would be close to as high as it can go?

I'll get the numbers this evening after work.

Camber wise, it doesn't look crazy compared to others, but I will try to get it measured somehow.
 
I plan to scale it as it was Saturday so that I know what not to do in the future. I will have to see if I can make 1 1/4" rear stagger happen. I am actually somewhat interested in what the nose numbers are as both spindles are almost bottomed out. I believe the the LF had 2 thicks and a thin under it, and the RF had 1 thick and 1 thin under it.

Theoretically, that should have me pretty close to max nose weight without any other variables being considered correct? Since the frame would be close to as high as it can go?

I'll get the numbers this evening after work.

Camber wise, it doesn't look crazy compared to others, but I will try to get it measured somehow.
Check it where it's at BUT you don't want to adjust nose weight in that manor, you want washers more even and move only to adjust cross, count washers later and let us know.
 
I plan to scale it as it was Saturday so that I know what not to do in the future. I will have to see if I can make 1 1/4" rear stagger happen. I am actually somewhat interested in what the nose numbers are as both spindles are almost bottomed out. I believe the the LF had 2 thicks and a thin under it, and the RF had 1 thick and 1 thin under it.

Theoretically, that should have me pretty close to max nose weight without any other variables being considered correct? Since the frame would be close to as high as it can go?

I'll get the numbers this evening after work.

Camber wise, it doesn't look crazy compared to others, but I will try to get it measured somehow.
no, both spindles raised as high as they will go, will lower the front rake on the chassis and raise the nose% a little, having the frame as high as it will go will slow/delay weight transfer.
This could also be the cause of your issue.
Center the spindles back up, manufacturers weld the front ends in the jig, so that when they are centered they come out to X amount of cross for us it was 60%(with the right staggers), ours had 13 washers 1 more on top of the right side, and 1 more under the left, get it back balanced.
1 1/2 stagger front and rear wont bother you on an 1/8.
And for an 1/8 I wouldnt be using the baseline Umax recommends
 
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