Box Stock

Gearing question?

M

MattRoss87

Member
I would like to know if there is a difference between running what we currently run which is a 17/63 to 17/58, to if we switched to like a 15 tooth and whatever that sprocket equivalent would be.
 
Kinda loaded question here, but hope this helps, it’s just my opinion and we all know what that means… if you’re on a wide open momentum track go with the larger clutch driver, but if it’s a on and off throttle corners, you will benefit going smaller on the clutch driver… some will say ratio is ratio but my experience tells there there is gains and losses to the theory..
 
Petty Race Engines said:
Kinda loaded question here, but hope this helps, it’s just my opinion and we all know what that means… if you’re on a wide open momentum track go with the larger clutch driver, but if it’s a on and off throttle corners, you will benefit going smaller on the clutch driver… some will say ratio is ratio but my experience tells there there is gains and losses to the theory..
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It's an 1/8th mile oval, and my son is running one of those mini wedges and it's built to turn left as wide open as we can get it. It's a blue plate clone. And any information is appreciated.
 
Experiment with it, keep good notes. I’d say 1/8 mile would have to be rounded straights to be a full momentum, and keep in mind if you have to lift, try different entry techniques, back the corner up some and roll into the corner but you should be back on the throttle by the center off, driving hard in is not always the fastest… thing to remember, if you can’t get off the corner, change the way you get into the corner
 
Run 5-8 good laps with one and look write down your lap times. Then make the switch and run it again. Seems to be the only way to know for sure. I gained a couple tenths on mini gear. But now that I've improved my kart, tire game and driving I'm thinking about going back to a larger driver and see if it helps with the momentum that I've gained.
 
MattRoss87 said:
It's an 1/8th mile oval, and my son is running one of those mini wedges and it's built to turn left as wide open as we can get it. It's a blue plate clone. And any information is appreciated.
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First big difference with a 17/58 and a 17/63 what RPM readings are you getting with each , should be low a Blue plate clone should avg 6500 RPM a 17 driver is to big for a 1/8 th mile track for that engine package , a 15 / 60 would be much closer If it's momentum , If it's higher drops it's smaller driver .
 
racing promotor said:
First big difference with a 17/58 and a 17/63 what RPM readings are you getting with each , should be low a Blue plate clone should avg 6500 RPM a 17 driver is to big for a 1/8 th mile track for that engine package , a 15 / 60 would be much closer If it's momentum , If it's higher drops it's smaller driver .
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It's actually a 1/5th mile oval. And I'm only getting peak 5200 rpms. We also can't tune our engines at all. The most I can do is set the valve springs
 
MattRoss87 said:
It's actually a 1/5th mile oval. And I'm only getting peak 5200 rpms. We also can't tune our engines at all. The most I can do is set the valve springs
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What do you mean, you cannot tune your engines?
Set the valve springs? Or adjust valve lash.
Simply adding an outerwear, or different foamy can be a tuning adjustment.

Float level?
Coil air gap? Spark plug gap, or type/ heat range?

All these things are tuning.
 
95 shaw said:
What do you mean, you cannot tune your engines?
Set the valve springs? Or adjust valve lash.
Simply adding an outerwear, or different foamy can be a tuning adjustment.

Float level?
Coil air gap? Spark plug gap, or type/ heat range?

All these things are tuning.
Click to expand...
We can put new springs and I just valve lash. I've never thought about adjusting the spark plug gap. And I don't know what the coil air gap is. I'm still relatively new to this.
 
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