Gearing / setup

Bweston

Member
I’m new to the page and also new to the karting world I have a predator 212 box stock (non hemi) on a late 80’s early 90’s margay chassi and I’m trying to get my speed up Iv been running on a 1/6th mile I ran a 16/62 Saturday night and as soon as we all took off fell back almost immediately broke the chain right after the flag dropped and when I looked at the tach it read 4600 rpm. Don’t know if my gearing was way off or if it was somthing else in my heat race I had a 16/68 ran decent just didn’t seem to have as much power as everyone else thank you in advance
 
I’m new to the page and also new to the karting world I have a predator 212 box stock (non hemi) on a late 80’s early 90’s margay chassi and I’m trying to get my speed up Iv been running on a 1/6th mile I ran a 16/62 Saturday night and as soon as we all took off fell back almost immediately broke the chain right after the flag dropped and when I looked at the tach it read 4600 rpm. Don’t know if my gearing was way off or if it was somthing else in my heat race I had a 16/68 ran decent just didn’t seem to have as much power as everyone else thank you in advance
Is non-hemi required? People claim they are equal to hemi, but having rode my kart on both motors same setup I felt the hemi was much stronger of a motor. First race I was a lap down, and next I was on pace with the field. That's the first thing that sticks out to me, but it could be a thousand things depending on the specifics of track/kart/tires/rules.
 

mike97760

Site Supporter
I have always run the non hemi (except once) and can't tell the difference on track. Seems if a track has more of either motor winning it's because there were more of them in the field. We haven't lost a race because we didn't have a hemi.
 

Bweston

Member
Is non-hemi required? People claim they are equal to hemi, but having rode my kart on both motors same setup I felt the hemi was much stronger of a motor. First race I was a lap down, and next I was on pace with the field. That's the first thing that sticks out to me, but it could be a thousand things depending on the specifics of track/kart/tires/rules.
No it’s not required no but I couldn’t find a hemi at the time they was all sold out and I was just trying to get some seat time before the end of the season at first my gearing was way off didn’t have no drive and wanted to bog down then I changed gears to a 16/68 was better but not enough then the feature I was a 16/62 still a bit better still not enough tho my chain snapped after the dropped the checkerd when I looked at my tach it was only 4600 our lemit is 5300 I do believe
 

mike97760

Site Supporter
The key to hitting the rpms you want is corner speed and keeping rpms up thru the corners. You, like most guys having rpm/slow kart issues, don't even mention this. You have to run box stocks with your foot to the floor all the way around the track. It takes way too long to regain the rpms you lost when you decelerated. You also confuse on track rpms with track rule rpms, which are checked with your kart on the stand, not on the track and under load. fix your handling, tire, and driving issues and then start questioning what you think are motor issues. Gear it so it's hitting 4900 at the end of the straight. As your kart gets faster you will be taking teeth off the back yet running the same rpms because you're not slowing so much thru the corners.
 

Prorookie34

Member
The key to hitting the rpms you want is corner speed and keeping rpms up thru the corners. You, like most guys having rpm/slow kart issues, don't even mention this. You have to run box stocks with your foot to the floor all the way around the track. It takes way too long to regain the rpms you lost when you decelerated. You also confuse on track rpms with track rule rpms, which are checked with your kart on the stand, not on the track and under load. fix your handling, tire, and driving issues and then start questioning what you think are motor issues. Gear it so it's hitting 4900 at the end of the straight. As your kart gets faster you will be taking teeth off the back yet running the same rpms because you're not slowing so much thru the corners.
Yes and if you can't hold it to the floor, either your fronts, rears or all four tires are sliding too much. That being too tight, too loose, or just really far off on setup. Tires are the first place to start. Pressure and duro (if youre allowed to prep)

Also if your chain broke, I will assume you used a master link. Don' t, if you did. They always fail. Get a good chain breaker used for kart racing.
 

Prorookie34

Member
If your chain broke, your tach only showed 4600? Im sure you floored it, to make sure the chain was gone. 4600 sounds like an issue as well.
 

DD83

Member
If your chain broke, your tach only showed 4600? Im sure you floored it, to make sure the chain was gone. 4600 sounds like an issue as well.
4600 at the flagstand doesnt sound bad to me, and I've never had a problem with the master link. I'd start on the scales tires will only do so much if your set up is way off. What's the scale #'s? once he has a good baseline, the right stagger and the right tire will really dial him in.
 

Bweston

Member
The key to hitting the rpms you want is corner speed and keeping rpms up thru the corners. You, like most guys having rpm/slow kart issues, don't even mention this. You have to run box stocks with your foot to the floor all the way around the track. It takes way too long to regain the rpms you lost when you decelerated. You also confuse on track rpms with track rule rpms, which are checked with your kart on the stand, not on the track and under load. fix your handling, tire, and driving issues and then start questioning what you think are motor issues. Gear it so it's hitting 4900 at the end of the straight. As your kart gets faster you will be taking teeth off the back yet running the same rpms because you're not slowing so much thru the corners.
I have the throttle all the way down never let off unless it’s a yellow and on my stand I hit 5100
 

Prorookie34

Member
Master links are an extreme weak point, and far from necessary, but if it ain't broke....

If youre talking about max rpms on your tachs recall, 4600 is too low. When the chain broke, the only way to know, is to rev it the rest of the way, which should of been 5100, like on your stand.

Were you on the throttle when it broke and do you run a master link?

Sounds like youre trying to setup and change the gear on an engine with issues..did I miss something?
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
I’m new to the page and also new to the karting world I have a predator 212 box stock (non hemi) on a late 80’s early 90’s margay chassi and I’m trying to get my speed up Iv been running on a 1/6th mile I ran a 16/62 Saturday night and as soon as we all took off fell back almost immediately broke the chain right after the flag dropped and when I looked at the tach it read 4600 rpm. Don’t know if my gearing was way off or if it was somthing else in my heat race I had a 16/68 ran decent just didn’t seem to have as much power as everyone else thank you in advance
A late 80 - early 90 margay is going to be a struggle period.
Put a mid gear . 16/64 . On .
Then drive it , experience driving will yield more result in speed then a gear change . If you can. Make laps within a tenth for the entire race then change gear .
 

Bweston

Member
Master links are an extreme weak point, and far from necessary, but if it ain't broke....

If youre talking about max rpms on your tachs recall, 4600 is too low. When the chain broke, the only way to know, is to rev it the rest of the way, which should of been 5100, like on your stand.

Were you on the throttle when it broke and do you run a master link?

Sounds like youre trying to setup and change the gear on an engine with issues..did I miss something?
The engine is brand new and I was running a master link and I just passed the checkered just letting off in 1 and 2 when it snapped
 

DD83

Member
Master links are an extreme weak point, and far from necessary, but if it ain't broke....

If youre talking about max rpms on your tachs recall, 4600 is too low. When the chain broke, the only way to know, is to rev it the rest of the way, which should of been 5100, like on your stand.

Were you on the throttle when it broke and do you run a master link?

Sounds like youre trying to setup and change the gear on an engine with issues..did I miss something?
4600 is 300 rpm away from target rpm so wouldn't think this is an engine problem more of a set up, driver issue. Especially on a late 80's early 90's margay. low hp classes are all momentum... corner speed... without that the pack is going to pull you every time... that's why you have guys cheating finishing 7th thinking the winners have to be cheating if they won by so much when in reality they got beat by set up driver and tires.
 

Bweston

Member
The Lowest I seen was 4600 and that when I looked at it after the Cain snapped I need to relocate my tach I can’t see it when I’m on the track
 
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