The solid dowels will crack the block if the sidecover comes loose. The hollow dowels will give/collapse but the solids will not and they most generally will break the block at the base of the cylinder.
I repaired mine by making dowel pins at 3 and 9 o'clock out of 3/8 in stainless steel tubing. I then used the metric good grade allen bolt and washer. Hasn't come loose yet.
Great idea Don!
Im lost on where your putting these dowels? Pics please.
Don't weld it!!! Buy the billet side cover red locktite the bolts (not studs) provided with the kit, use the o ring, rtv the supplied gasket after you clearance side play for the gasket and o ring. I run this on my big bore stroker clone with way more than 14:1 comp and never once had side cove bolts back out( the ARC crank will break first). Only thing that ever made the bolts back out of anything on my motor is turning the little pressure washer motor over 9000 rpm which nobody makes a cam that makes much power at many more than 9000rpm so there's no need to turn one that hard your just wasting your motor, these are tourqe motors not high rpm flatties. Plus turning too many rpms over 9000, how are you gonna keep oil in it.
How you do that when your still torquing them to specified ftlbs? Take out and start over until clocked? Im going studs and locknuts with red loctite this time. Not playing around anymore. Never had a prob until I added more compression and power.If they were safety wired and they came loose, then they were not properly safety wired. They should be clocked so the wire does not allow the bolt head to turn at all.
-Shannon
If they were safety wired and they came loose, then they were not properly safety wired. They should be clocked so the wire does not allow the bolt head to turn at all.
-Shannon