Here we go again...

496 BB

New member
Seems like I just had this problem not even 3 weeks ago. Nothing like winning the race only to find out your pouring oil all over yourself. Kept going anyways since it was last race but then lost chain from a hard bump and said screw it and came in.

Side cover gasket came loose AGAIN. I had blue loctite AND saftey wire thru bolts and still came loose. Loose enough to crack the outside of the block by the lefthand dowel. Crack is not all the way thru.....yet.

I tried the fuel line trick. Couldnt get the bolt in without it pushing line out back side of cover. Im about to use red loctite next time. Has anyone done this?

Im wondering WHY this keeps happening. I added another vent to valve cover in hopes to vent block better. I opened up oil galley hole also in hopes to get more pressure from under piston out. I know this motor is somewhat tourquey but I dont see why I should have to check these bolts every race. This time around Im going back to the stock gasket instead of the thin one Ive been running.

Will the billet side cover help matters any? I run clutch outboard. Is that too much stress on bearing then transferring to side cover bolts? Bearing is golden. Can I use lock washers on these bolts?

Maybe liquid nails will seal this thing.
 
I use red loctite on our open motors, but I loctite the studs in the block first and let dry or set up for 24 hours before installing the cover and nuts. Need to make sure all threads are cleaned with brake cleaner or something like that before for the loctite We are turning the open motors 7800 rpm's all night long with no problems. Never used the blue much. jmo
 
Might as well just weld it up, when it's time to rebuild just pop the head off and toss everything else! Most of it's junk by that time anyway! LOL
 
Do you have clearance for the crank side to side. I had the same problem. Run the heat with no problem and got about 5-6 laps in the feature and it lost all the oil and I pulled off. Added a gasket for some room and walla, it worked.
 
I use red Loctite on studs and stock bolts as well. I also use star type locking washers with stud kits and stock bolts (like the washers on automotive flexplate bolts). Also, I go back and retorque them several times until they seat. JMO
 
Yea it for sure times for studs this go around. I like the red loctite idea as well. Got all winter to get it right...lol. Now just gotta think about how to make more power but not sure if Im gonna do it in this block. Matter of fact Im not. Will just use this as a backup kart. New chassis and all next year.

Well while we're at it lets hear about experiences on the big bore kits? Kinda wanna keep this s/a on outside so a tall deck and stroker is not in the works. Was looking at Mike Clements website and saw his big bore short blocks. Anyone use them? Or his H beam rods?

What Im thinking for this build is more and as follows:

Big bore
Billet rod
Wiseco oversize piston
Tq Cam (Havent decided which but probably Isky or NR)
18cc head with bigger valves and milled for compression along with porting (mild)
Somewhere in 14+ CR
No more than .020-24 total in the hole
Dover or whoever else builds a good carb
Adjustable FW
Shaft mount rockers (Either RS or Champion depending on cam and ratio)
Already have 930 pipe
No pull start
Billet sidecover
New bearings (already have a year on it)

I dont know what HP Im at now but have a flat top and 14cc with mild porting. As usual I want more. Im never satisfied so its game on...lol. Anyways I havent decided on alky or race fuel as of yet. I want to go alky but I may have problems with older guys at the track that are always complaining even though there are no rules per se.... (Fun track) just whiners.

So whos got a big bore? I know youve tried it Young...lol. Your like me. You always want more.
 
Spend the $$$ on the 'stud kit' and 'blue' loctite the studs into the block. Use the 'black' side cover gasket from DynoCams and apply a 1/16" bead of Permatex #82180 'Ultra-Black' Gasket Maker from the Oil fill hole-Oil fill hole of the side cover ONLY! Position the dowels (solid w/stud kit) and the gasket into/onto the side cover and install it onto the block....onto the studs. Make sure it 'nest' properly, then....evenly torque the nuts to 185-190 inch lbs. Mystery solved! (assuming this is a non-stock motor, of-course)
 
Don't weld it!!! Buy the billet side cover red locktite the bolts (not studs) provided with the kit, use the o ring, rtv the supplied gasket after you clearance side play for the gasket and o ring. I run this on my big bore stroker clone with way more than 14:1 comp and never once had side cove bolts back out( the ARC crank will break first). Only thing that ever made the bolts back out of anything on my motor is turning the little pressure washer motor over 9000 rpm which nobody makes a cam that makes much power at many more than 9000rpm so there's no need to turn one that hard your just wasting your motor, these are tourqe motors not high rpm flatties. Plus turning too many rpms over 9000, how are you gonna keep oil in it.
 
Yea it for sure times for studs this go around. I like the red loctite idea as well. Got all winter to get it right...lol. Now just gotta think about how to make more power but not sure if Im gonna do it in this block. Matter of fact Im not. Will just use this as a backup kart. New chassis and all next year.

Well while we're at it lets hear about experiences on the big bore kits? Kinda wanna keep this s/a on outside so a tall deck and stroker is not in the works. Was looking at Mike Clements website and saw his big bore short blocks. Anyone use them? Or his H beam rods?

What Im thinking for this build is more and as follows:

Big bore
Billet rod
Wiseco oversize piston
Tq Cam (Havent decided which but probably Isky or NR)
18cc head with bigger valves and milled for compression along with porting (mild)
Somewhere in 14+ CR
No more than .020-24 total in the hole
Dover or whoever else builds a good carb
Adjustable FW
Shaft mount rockers (Either RS or Champion depending on cam and ratio)
Already have 930 pipe
No pull start
Billet sidecover
New bearings (already have a year on it)

I dont know what HP Im at now but have a flat top and 14cc with mild porting. As usual I want more. Im never satisfied so its game on...lol. Anyways I havent decided on alky or race fuel as of yet. I want to go alky but I may have problems with older guys at the track that are always complaining even though there are no rules per se.... (Fun track) just whiners.

So whos got a big bore? I know youve tried it Young...lol. Your like me. You always want more.

If ur gonna be @ 14-1....Alky is a 'definite'!! (let-um eat their hearts out) :)
 
If there is any cracks or dowel holes are "wallowed" out, you will NEVER keep a side cover tight. If there is a crack, get a block. No amount of tightening or studs will work if its already cracked.
 
Blocks are cheap, Isky sells them already bored if you don't have the means to bore one. Clements is good but Isky is equally as good and has better cam profiles and he's cheaper.
 
You could always use small "cider clamps" to physically hold the cover on. Its not enough to maintain a seal, but the added pressure will keep the cover from oscillating (and backing off)
 
cometic makes a gasket called AFM they dont leak they got them in .018,.020,.032 and the side cover did`nt come loose eather, there like the fel pro`s that we used on the flat heads.
 
Im wondering WHY this keeps happening. I added another vent to valve cover in hopes to vent block better. I opened up oil galley hole also in hopes to get more pressure from under piston out. I know this motor is somewhat tourquey but I dont see why I should have to check these bolts every race. This time around Im going back to the stock gasket instead of the thin one Ive been running.
Can I use lock washers on these bolts?

This isn't a blue Greyhound block is it??? I recently had issues with one of those. Safety wire and blue loctite works for me now.
 
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