hillard flame bully conversion kit

It's supposed to hold the snap ring from spinning. I have ran without them though without issue.
 
Thank you , that makes sense . looks like an extra part to get caught in something and lock the clutch up, i dont think i will put it in.
Steve
 
If the snap ring rotates ( which it can if the screw is not in place ), the snap ring can come off the sprocket. Ask me how I know !!!! Bully makes the conversion for Hilliard. That screw is in every Bully clutch. They know what they are doing.
 
They provide it for a reason. Use the screw with lock tite. The head goes on the outside of the clutch so even if it were to unscrew it would not fall into the clutch.
 
the directions say you can snug the clutch drum up tight on the shaft, but the hillard calls for some play. I tighten my bully conversion, and it locked up. I think there should be some play, the same as the hillard installation, your thoughts
 
If you have end play in the clutch hub on the crankshaft (not the drum) you will damage the keyway of the crankshaft.
Go to the www.Briggsracing.com and you will find that Briggs recommends that there be no end play of the clutch hub on the crank.
I can personally confirm that if the clutch is allowed to slide back and forth on the crank it WILL damage the keyway!
I've seen several motors with the damage!
If you tighten the clutch drum so that there is no end play the clutch will be locked up.
 
I have a Hillard fury and I think it has the Bully conversion but how do you tell for sure? The center hole is 1.125" the outer hole is 1.445" and the flats on the rectangle are .805" wide. It has the anti rotation bolt. Are there gears with a similar drive system like Tomar ect.?

Thanks,
Sundog
 
I never use the bolt with snap rings, but some drivers have a spiral ring and that bolt helps hold the spiral ring in place, you would put the head of the bolt on the inside of the clutch, pinning the spiral clip to the drum. Mostly smaller drivers use these type of rings instead of the snap ring, from my experience. I have used the bolt inside and outside the drum both, no difference to me either way. Go to the hardware store and get some extras of that little bolt, the head strips easily if you try to tighten it too much. Its easier for me to use a dab of blue loctite on the threads and just barely snug it down. If you use the correct snap ring, you should not have any problem with it spinning in the groove, and even if it does spin in the groove, the tension will keep it from popping off or loose. I have seen some people reuse the same snap ring over and over all season, then wonder why they fail in the middle of a race....they are not designed to be reused over and over like that, they are designed to be replaced after each use i believe, or after a couple of uses. You can literally feel the snap ring losing tension after a few times of taking it on and off.
 
SouthernStarKarting said:
I am stumped , what is the 4-40 screw for that comes with the ķit, i know where it goes but what is the purpose? Thx
Click to expand...
Direct from Bully instructions "a screw must be installed in the basket between the snap ring ends" we know why it is needed why would anyone advise against installing it? When not if the snap ring turns the sprocket will come loose from the drive drum, your race is finished why would you take the chance?
 
The set screw is only necessary when using the BULLY EZ-SPIN snap ring.

If you are using WMS Tuck-N-Run sprockets, their snap ring is specific to their brand of sprockets and will not come off if properly installed. It does not matter if the WMS snap ring spins or is held stationary.

If using a Buller brand sprocket, you can use the Premier double wound spiral retaining ring (which is my personal preference) as it fits the Buller brand sprocket nicely, and needs no other help staying in place. We have used this snap ring in excess of 18,000 RPM on two cycle clutches so we know it will work fine in the 8,000 or less range of a stock clone or LO-206.

I have forgotten (I am getting old) what snap ring size is OEM on a TOMAR brand sprocket, but the one that come with each new sprocket is adequate and does not need the little 4-40 BHCS installed.
 
The Bully conversion for a Hilliard is not my favorite.
The OEM Hilliard drum lasts longer.
 
Let me give you a simple example of why the Hilliard drive system is better than the Bully drive system.
Picture a straight slot screw driver or even a Phillips. Then picture a Torx drive system.
The Bully is like a straight slot screw driver and the Hilliard is like a torx.
The bully only has 2 spots on the drum that drive the sprocket.
The Hilliard has 12 drive teeth.

I know what type of bit and screw i would use in my drill to attach a piece of 4 x 8 plywood.
I would never use a straight slot or even a Phillips especially if i ever wanted to get the screw back out.

Just about every Bully or SMC clutch i have ever seen that has time on it has a worn drum and the sprocket is loose in the drum.
 
Jimbo said:
Let me give you a simple example of why the Hilliard drive system is better than the Bully drive system.
Picture a straight slot screw driver or even a Phillips. Then picture a Torx drive system.
The Bully is like a straight slot screw driver and the Hilliard is like a torx.
The bully only has 2 spots on the drum that drive the sprocket.
The Hilliard has 12 drive teeth.

I know what type of bit and screw i would use in my drill to attach a piece of 4 x 8 plywood.
I would never use a straight slot or even a Phillips especially if i ever wanted to get the screw back out.

Just about every Bully or SMC clutch i have ever seen that has time on it has a worn drum and the sprocket is loose in the drum.
Click to expand...

When you put it that way, think about this....which is easier to strip out...the torx or the flathead bolt? I don't know about everyone else, but I have stripped the heads on far more torx bolts than I have on flat head bolts or screws Jimbo.

The bully drums and drivers are proven to work and work well, they are all we use anymore. When we buy a Hillard clutch the first thing we do is throw away the stock drum and buy a conversion drum, mainly because we already have about 10 different sizes of bully gears that will fit them, and wont have to buy 10 new Hillard gears. Have you seen how much hillard sells the gears alone for? Most racers already have plenty of Bully gears, so buying new gears is just an added expense that is not neccesary. The drums usually wear out of round before the driver slot wears out anyways in my opinion
 
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