My clutch guy is Shannon Halbert at GoFastHp, and he has always suggested red wheel bearing grease for the needle bearings and bushings on clutches. It does not take much, just a light film is all that's needed. I used to stick with tri flow only for the clutches and bearings but after talking to Shannon I tried the red bearing grease, and it is all ill use anymore. The bearings may not spin as free when you spin them on the kart stand or with the clutch in your hand, but then again we don't race on kart stands or with our hands, we race under load, and that bearing grease seems to do much better under load than typical lubes like Tri Flow does, with less wear and tear on the bearings and bushings. That is my experience with lubes. I trust my clutch builders experience on that
hillard flame bully conversion kit
- Thread starter SouthernStarKarting
- Start date
My clutch guy is Shannon Halbert at GoFastHp, and he has always suggested red wheel bearing grease for the needle bearings and bushings on clutches. It does not take much, just a light film is all that's needed. I used to stick with tri flow only for the clutches and bearings but after talking to Shannon I tried the red bearing grease, and it is all ill use anymore. The bearings may not spin as free when you spin them on the kart stand or with the clutch in your hand, but then again we don't race on kart stands or with our hands, we race under load, and that bearing grease seems to do much better under load than typical lubes like Tri Flow does, with less wear and tear on the bearings and bushings. That is my experience with lubes. I trust my clutch builders experience on that
Standard, straight slotted screw, or Torx which is better? The answer is as simple as it gets, the more contact points you have the greater torque can be applied. You follow engineering or industry trends when was the last time you encountered standard type screws used to assemble high stress components they are outdated and not used. Same argument I will apply to Flathead engines, a manufacturer is way behind the times if that is what the are producing and trying to race.
CarlsonMotorsports
Site Supporter
Screws. Ok.
I haven't seen a steel drum/basket wear around a Bully driver ever. (Even in some nasty opens easily making 3 times the power of an LO206.)
In the aluminum baskets? Sure. But then again, I've never known an aluminum basket to be available for the Hilliard...that means every conversion kit out there has a steel drum with a steel driver. Wear with an LO206? Seriously? If you put too much (any) endplay in the clutch at all, the first thing it wears is the crank keyway. It'll wear that well before the Bully driver and conversion basket. Now, maybe the teeth on the driver will wear, but then again if the Hilliard driver has the same number of teeth, it will wear too. By the time either would ever wear out, I suspect the rest of the clutch would need replacing as well.
What in the world are you guys seeing/comparing with?
I haven't seen a steel drum/basket wear around a Bully driver ever. (Even in some nasty opens easily making 3 times the power of an LO206.)
In the aluminum baskets? Sure. But then again, I've never known an aluminum basket to be available for the Hilliard...that means every conversion kit out there has a steel drum with a steel driver. Wear with an LO206? Seriously? If you put too much (any) endplay in the clutch at all, the first thing it wears is the crank keyway. It'll wear that well before the Bully driver and conversion basket. Now, maybe the teeth on the driver will wear, but then again if the Hilliard driver has the same number of teeth, it will wear too. By the time either would ever wear out, I suspect the rest of the clutch would need replacing as well.
What in the world are you guys seeing/comparing with?
Jimbo
You can fool some of the people some of the time
It has always been my opinion that if you already have a bunch of Bully drivers then the bully conversion might be the way to go for economical reasons.
If you don't already have Bully drivers there is absolutely no reason to pay more for the conversion!
If you are happy with the Bully system then by all means do what makes you happy but the science doesn't support it.
Unfortunately, there are some that don't believe in science.
If you don't already have Bully drivers there is absolutely no reason to pay more for the conversion!
If you are happy with the Bully system then by all means do what makes you happy but the science doesn't support it.
Unfortunately, there are some that don't believe in science.
Flash-o-matic
Member
The Premier Titan clutch as used on the World Formula clutch will hammer the slots on the steel drum ( uses Bully type sprockets). I'm positive the Stinger clutch, in the right hands, will do the same on a LO206. ( sprint kart)
CarlsonMotorsports
Site Supporter
Jimbo,
With all due respect:
Let's dissect your statement one part at a time:
IF the Bully conversions wear out like you suggested, how can you recommend that a customer purchase one simply because he already owns Bully drivers? That doesn't sound economical, especially if they'll have to replace parts more often.
Well, except for that pesky little fact of the Bully drivers costing less than the Hilliard drivers and being stuck with their bushing... only recently did they become available with needle bearings (which cost even more.) ...And the bushings are just terrible (especially for dirt racers.) Better buy a couple extras.
It's not a matter of making you or I happy. For me, it's a matter of making my customers happy. This is the product that they continually ask for. It's a proven, reliable, and cost effective product that is a good fit for the LO206 engine package.
I get your argument on screws -- but again, I have to ask what you are seeing in the field regarding clutch basket wear.
Flash shared his experience with another brand of clutch on an engine with higher HP and torque -- yea, I can see that. Kinda like comparing mandarins to oranges though I suppose. I have yet to see evidence of Bully conversion kit steel baskets (or drivers) wearing any quicker than Hilliard baskets and drivers with use on the Lo206. I rebuild 100 or more clutches every year and I'm just not seeing this wear that you are reporting. The evidence simply does not support your statement.
Yup there has been issues with NOT installing the screw! I have seen the damage. Please follow the instruction they are ment to be followed to save you issues.
jstrawser
Member
So does anyone make a Bully Conversion Drum for a NORAM Clutch. I am aware of the Noram Ge Ultimate Clutch and that drum features replaceable drivers but it cost north of 110.00
I road race LO206 with hilliard clutch and bully conversion. I have about 10 race events on my clutch and the drum double D is way wore out. The drums are soft and mash out the flat area on the loaded side of the D. We run large drivers (25-27tth 219) and run 30 minute races so have quite a few hours on the drum/clutches in a year. But they DO wear out.
racinnut15xm
Member
I believe the stinger is another that noram makes that has replaceable drivers.
Jim I'm with you on the torx analogy 100%. (As I am referencing how to make use of 7- #219 SMC drivers on my #35 Flame collection, LOL)