Hillard Flame Clutch

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bullerman

Member
Hillard shows a Inboard leading shoe and a inboard trailing shoe in their instructions. What is the difference? Just for a box stock class does it matter which way they are turned? I am using white springs with no weights. Just wondering which way to turn the shoes.
 
Yes, there is a difference. Turn the shoe so the "L" shape of the shoes are towards the rotation of the clutch drum. That's what 95% or so of the people running them do. The other 5% complain about the shoes not engaging correctly and not wearing evenly.
 
Set them in the trailing position for rolling (momentum) starts.
For standing (Grand Prix style) starts, some prefer to lead (or push) the shoes. I've got a few oval racers (and even a few sprint guys) that like the leading set-up....but as anyone who has run their clutch that way will tell you, it's hard on your chain, gear, (and neck!)


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Raced last night in the Bock Class. Had the shoes turned in the leading position. Clutch look like it engaged right around 2800 rpm. It hurt doesn't seem like it has a good or hard engagement to me. I know it is clean. No grease, oil or anything else. Should try the black spring, white spring combination or just black springs. Could it just be engaging to soon? Don't usually use a drum clutch. The other drivers seem to have a lot more jump than me.
 
We do a rolling start so they can be in either position I guess. I took the clutch apart awhile ago. The shoes has pretty even wear but looked glazed to me. One thing I did do I shouldn't have was spray the chain with chain lube. With the Bully drum with the holes in is very easy to get some in the clutch and I think I did. I am used to a Bully with a solid drum. Going to clean the chain and no more lube one it.
Hillard says to clean the clutch with WD40. The shoes looked glazed to me and looks like it should be taken of. What will it hurt to lightly sand the shoes and the drum? The way I always did my old Noram clutch.
 
bullerman said:
We do a rolling start so they can be in either position I guess. I took the clutch apart awhile ago. The shoes has pretty even wear but looked glazed to me. One thing I did do I shouldn't have was spray the chain with chain lube. With the Bully drum with the holes in is very easy to get some in the clutch and I think I did. I am used to a Bully with a solid drum. Going to clean the chain and no more lube one it.
Hillard says to clean the clutch with WD40. The shoes looked glazed to me and looks like it should be taken of. What will it hurt to lightly sand the shoes and the drum? The way I always did my old Noram clutch.
Click to expand...
Absolutely sand the shoes and drum to deglaze them. Keep oil away from clutches.
If you are not going to run your drum clutch for a while, you can wipe WD40 very lightly inside the drum to keep it from rusting. Treat it the same as you would a brake rotor in my opinion. Clean is best.
 
Lightly sanded the shies and drum. You still go with two white springs. I got a set of yellow springs also. I had thought about two white and two yellow and up engagement a little but I probably need to go with two white.
 
Ran my Hillard clutch with Bully conversion this season. I used to send my Bully to Martinbuilt every year at the end of the season. Is it worth it to send the Hillard Flame clutch and have them rebuild it and blue print it? Do they blueprint shoe clutches?
 
bullerman said:
Ran my Hillard clutch with Bully conversion this season. I used to send my Bully to Martinbuilt every year at the end of the season. Is it worth it to send the Hillard Flame clutch and have them rebuild it and blue print it? Do they blueprint shoe clutches?
Click to expand...
Just call David Martin he can tell you the best way to go. He will answer the phone in the evenings, he has another job during the day.
 
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