Track Tac

Hillard Flame vs Stinger drum clutch

Same driver ? Driver lubricated ? Chain same tigthness ?
Can you stop them from spinning easily with the brake ?
I would say they tend to have more drag .
So yes iits possible . It acts different on the stand .
 
flattop1 said:
Same driver ? Driver lubricated ? Chain same tigthness ?
Can you stop them from spinning easily with the brake ?
I would say they tend to have more drag .
So yes iits possible . It acts different on the stand .
Click to expand...
Yes everything same and driver lubricated.
Stops easy with brake
 
I have run Hillard clutches roadracing LO206 (30 minute races) for 3 years now. The bully style drums last about 4 race weekends until they are wallered out too much to use. The keys shear off of the drive hub after 2-4 race weekends, and they destroy a crankshaft in less than a season. I've run them loose with about .010 end play and run them tight with the thick washer removing all end play and hammered tight. They rip up the crankshaft no matter what I do. I was running the clutch with the driver inboard but the keyway was so destroyed on my crank that I had to flip it around and run the driver outboard to get some more keyway. Anyone else ruining a crank this fast?
 
Legend said:
I have run Hillard clutches roadracing LO206 (30 minute races) for 3 years now. The bully style drums last about 4 race weekends until they are wallered out too much to use. The keys shear off of the drive hub after 2-4 race weekends, and they destroy a crankshaft in less than a season. I've run them loose with about .010 end play and run them tight with the thick washer removing all end play and hammered tight. They rip up the crankshaft no matter what I do. I was running the clutch with the driver inboard but the keyway was so destroyed on my crank that I had to flip it around and run the driver outboard to get some more keyway. Anyone else ruining a crank this fast?
Click to expand...
I've not heard this experience at all (through hundreds of customers.) Granted only a few are running road racing, most are sprint, street, or dirt. The only time I've seen crank keyway wear with the L206 is when the clutch has endplay (NOT recommended by Briggs or Hilliard,) or if there were some other issue (chain tension, alignment, etc.)
The fact that you're wearing the driver slot out of your drums makes me think there's something else going on. EVen if you are running 30 minute races, the clutch driver will have constant tension on it for 29 minutes and 59 seconds. Where the driver inserts into the drum gets the most wear at clutch engagement. For that reason, I would think that the sprint guys would be seeing more wear than the road race guys, but again, I have few road race customers to compare that with. I suppose it could also be due to the length of time spent on the rev limiter (maybe.)
No, I'm not seeing crank wear near this fast. I've still got some 1st gen L206s out there running where allowed.
Make sure you have NO endplay of the drive hub on the crank with the Hilliard/Briggs L206 combo.
 
Legend said:
I have run Hillard clutches roadracing LO206 (30 minute races) for 3 years now. The bully style drums last about 4 race weekends until they are wallered out too much to use. The keys shear off of the drive hub after 2-4 race weekends, and they destroy a crankshaft in less than a season. I've run them loose with about .010 end play and run them tight with the thick washer removing all end play and hammered tight. They rip up the crankshaft no matter what I do. I was running the clutch with the driver inboard but the keyway was so destroyed on my crank that I had to flip it around and run the driver outboard to get some more keyway. Anyone else ruining a crank this fast?
Click to expand...
I have run these clutches on dirt, sprint and Road racing and never had any issue with them. If that's the case something else is wrong. i have even run them with open clones without any issue.
 
Collin said:
Thanks for the advice, we won the feature tonight!
Click to expand...
Tool apart the stinger clutch to clean it. Do u need this thin washer? It was coming out on one side. Its like a paper thin metal.
 

Attachments

  • 6131A23D-A587-4401-813C-1887FDCEFDBA.jpeg
    6131A23D-A587-4401-813C-1887FDCEFDBA.jpeg
    121.3 KB · Views: 27
Collin said:
Tool apart the stinger clutch to clean it. Do u need this thin washer? It was coming out on one side. Its like a paper thin metal.
Click to expand...
Yes, you likely need it to keep the driver snug in the drum. Some drivers fit tighter than others. This thin shim is just that, a shim to take up slack in the driver snapring fit to make it tight.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top