Hilliard flame engagement for LO206 sprint kart

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We are running an LO206 blue slide sprint kart. Our track has some tight hairpin turns.

We have tried a few different engagement setups. 4 white (2800) 2 white/2 black (3400 - this seems too high) and some in between. Peak torque for a generic blue slide is about 2950 I think. We do a rolling start and the 4 white seemed pretty good on the start, but may be too low for all the tight turns where RPM are more in the low 3000 RPM range. I have heard that it is faster to have the clutch slip off the corners. Is this just something where one just needs to try a bunch of things close to peak torque and see what works best? For the next time out I am thinking 2 black/2 yellow or maybe go back to the 4 white.
 
It's hard to differentiate the clutch pulling well vs competition or if your gearing is just different. Around 3200 should good overall. Time is better spent working on the kart than the cutch or engine.
 
Hilliard makes a weight kit if you want to change your engagement in smaller increments than what a spring change does. I've been experimenting with them trying to improve acceleration out of the 180 hairpin on our track. I can't honestly say if they'll help you or not, but they are available and simple to work with.
 
I have the big and small weights and have tried them. I need to get more of the tiny little self destructing circlips to hold the weights in. I am going to try 3200 for the next race. The consumables on the Hilliard clutch are getting expensive. The springs don't seem to last very long and each set of springs is something like $12 or $14. I can barely get new black springs on but after even one session at the track the black springs come off very easily it makes me think they are worn out.
 
Get the clutch to work properly after the clutch has been run a few times on track. Don't tune it to be right when its out of the box or you'll be constantly maintaining it. I promise you're working too hard.
 
FatOldKartDad said:
I have the big and small weights and have tried them. I need to get more of the tiny little self destructing circlips to hold the weights in. I am going to try 3200 for the next race. The consumables on the Hilliard clutch are getting expensive. The springs don't seem to last very long and each set of springs is something like $12 or $14. I can barely get new black springs on but after even one session at the track the black springs come off very easily it makes me think they are worn out.
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Gary's right. Tune them after they have worn in, not as brand new. Then they will last forever at that tuned point. I run a flame for a whole season and do not do anything besides clean it. I got a buddy who wins about every race he enters and I've never even seen him take his off the motor. You are not losing because of your clutch (especially in blue slide Jr classes).
 
Coil springs generally change in length,(and rate, slightly) when run the first few times. They then take a set and stay pretty consistent, unless overheated, or over stretched/ compressed.

Springs need to be broken in, then make adjustments.
 
To install the hilliard clip springs easily use a set of snap ring pliers that expand when you squeeze them. This makes putting the springs on a simple 30 second effort for any combination of them
 
If your springs are losing a lot of tension after one session on the track there is something else wrong. My first thought is that the pilot is driving around the track right at clutch engagement rpm. If so the clutch is slipping constantly and getting so hot that the springs are losing their strength.
4 White springs start to engage at about 2800 and 2 white and 2 yellow start to engage at about 2500.
I think many times people over think the clutch engagement more than they need to.
For most, not all, tracks once the clutch is locked up you never slow down enough for it to disengage.
If you have a flying start the clutch should be locked up when you put the hammer down.
If you have a very slow or standing start clutch engagement is more important.
 
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