Hoosier kart tires

We run the red and green clone plate classes. Track seems to have some moisture most nights. Its a flat kart that i put a spring cage on like a qrc. I copied below off the Carlson webpage. I was curious if all the sidewalls are the same stiffness? I feel like most of the karts in our class are on d10a most likely for ease of maintenance. I don't mind prepping throughout the week. Do i just go with the d10a like everyone else and prep them as needed or do i bring one of the harder compounds down to the d10a duro level to get the stiffer sidewall?

Hoosier D10A = 34d
Hoosier D20A = 45d
RD30, D30A = 50-52d
Hoosier RD35 = 50d
Hoosier D40A = 58-60d
Hoosier D50 = 70d
Hoosier D60a = 63-65d
Hoosier A30A = 52d
Hoosier A40A = 58d
Hoosier R50 = 70d
 
You'd do best to give us a call.

Most of the info on that page is very out-dated.
Unfortunately, we cannot update our website using the html program that it was created with and will require a complete reset/remake.

But, to answer your question....The D10A has a VERY soft floppy sidewall.
As does the D20A and D30A, each having slightly stiffer spring rates. These 3 are essentially equivalent to the Burris tires (11-22-33.)
The next "current" tire available is the A40 which is very similar to a Vega Yellow. If you are familiar with Vegas, this is a very stiff sidewall, high spring rate, tire that works very well on low/no bite tracks. This tire punches around 60d and can be prepped down much like a Vega.
The next tire is the FK compound that is very similar to the Maxxis Pink. It has a bit better(thicker) shoulder design (in my opinion) and stiff sidewall excellent for higher speed higher biting tracks. 60d and likes prep.

That's pretty much the current Hoosier line-up.
If everyone is on D10As, then the track must be very soft/wet and small. If the track has decent straights and momentum corners, then a D30A prepped down would have better roll speed, simply because of the higher spring rate.

If you've got ANY questions, please feel free to give us a call at the shop number listed below.


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Carlson Racing Engines
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Its a kids class, they rarely run more than 3-4 laps without a yellow and I don't think the tires ever build any heat. I was thinking of trying to get rid of all the rolling resistance I could. Possibly running the asphalt versions and grooving it as they show a narrower option and try to get it on a wider rim to take some of the flop of the side wall out. We have 6in rims on the front right now. With a 11-6.5 D10a. I will give you a call trying to sort through what sizes/compounds offered by hoosier about wore me out last night. I might be trying to over complicate it.

Thanks
 
Its a kids class, they rarely run more than 3-4 laps without a yellow and I don't think the tires ever build any heat. I was thinking of trying to get rid of all the rolling resistance I could. Possibly running the asphalt versions and grooving it as they show a narrower option and try to get it on a wider rim to take some of the flop of the side wall out. We have 6in rims on the front right now. With a 11-6.5 D10a. I will give you a call trying to sort through what sizes/compounds offered by hoosier about wore me out last night. I might be trying to over complicate it.

Thanks

Yea, Just call. Sarah or I can help you.
I suppose you could go with one of the road race tires (R60A or something along those lines), but I think you'd do better with the A40, personally. You can prep that tire down as much as you want. They don't work well without building some heat, so be ready to prep the snot out of them. The FK tires are pretty stiff sidewall as well, so that may be a good choice, although I've not found them to be as fast prepped way down. The D30A will be stiffer sidewall than the D10s for sure (and that's what I typically steer people toward when they want stiffer sidewalls but very soft duro,) but for your application, I'm still thinking the A40 would be the way to go.

Give us a call and we can get you some tires right out to you, mounted, cut, prepped, just about anything you could ever want. :)
 
When we ran the Hoosier tire we ran D10A’s with a rougher 36 grit finish. We would prep them with trac tac SAA GRAPE or Donny Nall wet track and usually ran 6psi in the rights and 5psi in the lefts. Track was still really moist when we went out.
 
When we ran the Hoosier tire we ran D10A’s with a rougher 36 grit finish. We would prep them with trac tac SAA GRAPE or Donny Nall wet track and usually ran 6psi in the rights and 5psi in the lefts. Track was still really moist when we went out.

Ok let me come clean lol it was his first race ever. I knew the tires were junk but i didn't figure he would be able to compete his first few races but sure enough he had no fear was blasting the top in hot laps running outside of the previous weeks winner and would eventually spin out off the corner from crumbs. I had 10 in RS tire and 8 in LS. Dropped to 9 and 7 for feature he ran 2nd until the last lap where he spun in 3/4 getting into the corner. We have 3 22's and a 10 on the RF a guy helping me gave me the d10 and it punches mid 30's. The burris tires are probably older than him and came with the kart. Now that i've told the truth i still believe my plan of action is the same, least rolling resistance possible.

All that to say was i out to lunch having him at 9-10 on RS tires and 7-8 on lefts? The guy who helped me put the kart together suggested that and he has been running these classes for years. We could only get about 1/4 of stagger in the rear with the tires we had, had an inch in front.
 
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