How do you turn your clone off?

racer10

Member
Me and my stepson are having a little disagreement he says you should pull plug wire off to kill the motor I say you can use kill switch I know in old flathead days we use to pull plug wire just curious getting back into karts this year after not racing for last 17 years just little friendly arguement we are having
 
Why not use the kill switch as designed, pulling the plug wired has been blamed for damaging the coil, I cannot verify and I do not see any reason why it would cause any damage.
 
Haven't been in the sport long but have noticed maybe alot of big name engine builders take kill switch off! maybe its one less thing that could go bad and have a bas finish, with that being said i see guys either flip choke lever, or pull plug wire, myself I pull plug wire so i can pull motor to top dead without having to worry about it firing, then replace wire so we're ready for next session, this is for clone
 
It is bad in practice to pull the plug wire to stop an engine plain and simple. Will it work? Yes. Is it good practice? No. Will it damage the coil on a clone? Verdict is still out. Will it damage a CDI ignition system? You betcha. Do we have CDI ignition systems in the clone? No. Do we have a rash of kill switch failures leaving racers scratching their heads as to why they have ignitions problems on the track? No. Is there a good reason not to use the kill switch? I haven't heard one yet.

Using the kill switch sends the spark voltage/current back to the engine's ground. In other words, the path of least resistance for the power generated by the magnet passing by the coil is sent back to ground rather than trying to jump the spark plugs air gap (center electrode to ground strap). When you just pull the plug, the power generated by the flywheel/coil has nowhere to go. You are effectively hipot testing the ignition system every time you do this.

Keep in mind that ACR's billet flywheels both the 6619 and 6689 recommend a larger air gap between the magnet and coil leg than the PVL because they use a stronger magnet in the flywheel than the PVL. The reason is setting this air-gap too close can "overload" and damage the coil. So if the coil can be damaged by too strong a magnet set too close to the coil, that should tell you everything you need to know about the "robustness" of the coil. So then why stress it?

Someone will chime in a n say they have been doing this for years with no problems. It still doesn't mean it's good practice.
 
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until that 1 time the kill switch craps out in a feature or money race and then you cut them all off. I personally like the kill switch on the clone I just know one day it’s gonna get me.
 
Kill switch , now as stated it can go bad . You could be hit by lightning also .
That said an important race or money race i disconected the kill switch😉
Right or wrong thats my story . Shoot you could pull the end off the wire .
 
Kill switch is designed with a purpose and easy to replace. Cheap too.

Buy 2 put new one on before season and a spare in your spare parts bin. (don't have one start putting one together)

I have 2 of everything and can overhaul a kart out the box. Bearings, tie rods, ends, Heims, etc.

I won't go to the track any other way.
 
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One animal coil failure for me in15 years , the flathead i changed enough stuff no telling .
Its monkey see monkey do .
The kill switch is really handy theres no denying that .
 
thanks for all the input his reasoning as well as a local engine builders reasoning is if you pull the plug wire off the plug wont become black on the end funny his looks just like mine when he pulls it out
 
We pull the plug, why you ask ? cause those stupid $2 kill switches have cost us a few races in animal, clone and LO206 over the years.
 
We pull the plug, why you ask ? cause those stupid $2 kill switches have cost us a few races in animal, clone and LO206 over the years.
There you go .
I have not had that issue .
It eliminate that failure point .
Always carry spares .

Edit Spare Coil . 4:25 pm .

The color of the plug tip ,,,,, no .
 
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I'm guessing the first thing teched after the race should be for a working and not disabled kill switch.

If you tend to it properly because it's an important thing on the engine you probably won't have a problem.
If you do anyway that's racing in the class you picked to race.

Disable or alter the switch and you should get DQ'ed.

Good thread and from now on if a racer i'm supporting gets beat and the other goes to tech, the first thing i'm going to expect to be checked is for a working kill switch. If it's not working then it should be taken apart to see if it's been altered.

Cheating is still cheating even if it's for reliability giving you an edge over your competition.
 
I'm guessing the first thing teched after the race should be for a working and not disabled kill switch.

If you tend to it properly because it's an important thing on the engine you probably won't have a problem.
If you do anyway that's racing in the class you picked to race.

Disable or alter the switch and you should get DQ'ed.

Good thread and from now on if a racer i'm supporting gets beat and the other goes to tech, the first thing i'm going to expect to be checked is for a working kill switch. If it's not working then it should be taken apart to see if it's been altered.

Cheating is still cheating even if it's for reliability giving you an edge over your competition.
Back in the 60's McCulloch / west bend etc era there were rules that you could not have your kill switch mounted on the steering because racers were flatfooting it and using the kill button as a brake . I guess that tactic works well on a 2 stroke.
 
I'm guessing the first thing teched after the race should be for a working and not disabled kill switch.

If you tend to it properly because it's an important thing on the engine you probably won't have a problem.
If you do anyway that's racing in the class you picked to race.

Disable or alter the switch and you should get DQ'ed.

Good thread and from now on if a racer i'm supporting gets beat and the other goes to tech, the first thing i'm going to expect to be checked is for a working kill switch. If it's not working then it should be taken apart to see if it's been altered.

Cheating is still cheating even if it's for reliability giving you an edge over your competition.
How in the heck would you ever see this as cheating Paul??? It would have absolutely NO benefit by adding power. Its a $2 chinese switch and they do fail as does the wiring for them running across the hot block, it has cost more than one racer a no start or a dead engine mid race. I'll pull the plug and replace the $10 coil every couple races!
 
There you go .
I have not had that issue .
It eliminate that failure point .
Always carry spares .

The color of the plug tip ,,,,, no .
How does a spare help you when your on the track racing ? The only motor I never disconnected it on was the LO206.
 
I'm guessing the first thing teched after the race should be for a working and not disabled kill switch.

If you tend to it properly because it's an important thing on the engine you probably won't have a problem.
If you do anyway that's racing in the class you picked to race.

Disable or alter the switch and you should get DQ'ed.

Good thread and from now on if a racer i'm supporting gets beat and the other goes to tech, the first thing i'm going to expect to be checked is for a working kill switch. If it's not working then it should be taken apart to see if it's been altered.

Cheating is still cheating even if it's for reliability giving you an edge over your competition.

Paul where in the clone rules does it say a motor must have a kill switch ?
 
How does a spare help you when your on the track racing ? The only motor I never disconnected it on was the LO206.
Spare coil , the switch you can do with out .

I was in agreement with your assessment.
 
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