How to Install Flame Clutch

Got a new Flame clutch because Briggs outlawed our Rocket Rim.

If you go to the hilliard website, the instructions for LO206 with Bully conversion do not match what comes in the kit.

Here are the instructions, see bottom of page 3, Option 2 https://www.hilliardextremeduty.com/media/8444-7f-019.pdf

Here are my issues:

1. The directions say nothing about what to do with the chamfered spacer. I assume it goes on first?

2. The directions tell you to use 2 small washers first, but the kit only comes with 1. But the image from the Hilliard website shows 2 washers as seen here: https://www.hilliardextremeduty.com/media/bully_conversion_kit.pdf

3. The instructions make no mention of the mandated grease shield or the shoe retaining washer?

4. However, they do mention a "large washer" that is not included in the kit?

Does anyone have proper instructions or a video on how to install a Flame with Bully conversion on a LO206? Thanks.
 
The instruction seem pretty clear . It does say 2 washers with kit 6 washers with conversion kit . (The caveat not all parts are supplied or work in your situation no guarantees are given or implied ) .
You appear to be missing washers .
Screenshot_20200602-122818_Drive.jpg
 
Well I guess it's a good thing I'm walking out the door the JC's lol
The clutch that comes with the bully drum has 1 thin and zero large washers.

Seriously, who the hell sells a product without all the parts?

Edit: still doesn't explain why the directions leave out the grease shield since it is mandatory.
 
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I bought 2x Hilliard part # LD4S-FLAME-BULL

It however seems like they are a mix of what is in these 2 pictures.

It is the bully drum, but with only 1 thin washer and not that large washer in the upper right of picture 2. But then it has the chamfered spacer from picture 1, along with the keyed washer and grease plate from picture 1. Very strange and confused the guys as JC as well. The only 2 washers they sell are the thin and the keyed, they don't stock the missing large washer. Nor can I figure out why the 2 chamfered spacers are different in these pictures.
 

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Well I guess it's a good thing I'm walking out the door the JC's lol
The clutch that comes with the bully drum has 1 thin and zero large washers.

Seriously, who the hell sells a product without all the parts?

Edit: still doesn't explain why the directions leave out the grease shield since it is mandatory.
Joshua
I sell lots of Hilliard clutches and have only had one that has had a missing part.
I'd be more suspicious that someone (like some one from the store you bought it from) opened the box and didn't put all the parts back in.
 
Yeah I just find it odd I can't buy those parts anywhere. Guess I'll call Hilliard tomorrow and see what we can do.
 
Well I guess it's a good thing I'm walking out the door the JC's lol
The clutch that comes with the bully drum has 1 thin and zero large washers.

Seriously, who the hell sells a product without all the parts?

Edit: still doesn't explain why the directions leave out the grease shield since it is mandatory.
I think the directions are old and that's why the grease trap is left out. Look at the Fire directions and those should work. That's the clutch the grease trap was intended for. It should give a pretty good idea where everything goes.
 
I think the directions are old and that's why the grease trap is left out. Look at the Fire directions and those should work. That's the clutch the grease trap was intended for. It should give a pretty good idea where everything goes.
That should work based on a test fit here. I see it doesn't use the large washer but a second thin washer inside.
 
The large "keyed" washer is the newer version of the washer in your picture from the right.

The grease trap, which is mandatory for LO-206 Racing, must be used.

In some series, the large keyed washer must be present, and unaltered.....meaning the key tab must be present, as well as the key tab in the grease shield.

To quote the Tech Inspector, " I don't write the rules, I only enforce them."

I brought the fact that the nomenclature/directions were needing updated almost four months ago to both Hilliard and Briggs. They must be busy 🙄
 
Joshua, don't feel bad.
We've seen the same from Hilliard/Bully conversions that we have purchased from 4 different distributors. Some come with extra parts, some come with not enough. Some come with an extra drum, some come with only the conversion drum. It makes it hard to compare prices when you don't even know what you're getting each time. :) There's almost always something missing, or at least different, between them.

The grease trap wasn't used in these clutches last year, but with the rule change, they now must be added. That may explain the lack of one in your clutch. It could have just been older inventory I suppose.
Another recent addition is the thick black radius spacer that replaces the 6 washers. Nice update, but we still get clutches in with washers from time to time.
Next issue is the driver needle bearing and the inner race. It is DIFFERENT from the conversion clutch to the original Hilliard. Some fit up fine, some fit very loose (too loose.) It also makes a difference in what driver you are using, genuine Bully, vs SMC or WMS.

As in most manufacturing changes, things generally sort themselves out over time when old stock is used up. I hope that is the case, as we're accumulating tons of spare clutch parts that we really don't need to carry in our inventory.


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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
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Linden, IN
765-339-4407
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After trying about 300 different configurations, I went with how the fire clutch diagram is, using a this washer inside the bell, then the grease shield and the keyed washer.

My issue with this is that none of those items are bigger than the bearing sleeve, so there is a good amount of play on the bell as a SMC sprocket slides along the sleeve. Seems to me you either need that large washer or a slightly shorter sleeve?
 
Buller's sprockets and sleeves use a small washer that fits over the sleeve to reduce the end play. The little washer comes with each sprocket kit. I consider it part of the driver so I think it is legal
 
Mounting a clutch on some chassis can be a challenge if you are a large person or the chassis has seat struts welded in place.
Mounting the sprocket outboard often helps.
Notice that the Hilliard clutch hub has a generous chamfer or relief built into the hub so you can mount it directly on the crank without using the 1/4" wide black radius washer. However, you will have to be creative when mounting the chain guard since the drum will hit the bolts.
A solution to that is to chamfer the mounting holes in the chain guard and use flat head bolts.
Be aware that it can be difficult to get the flat head bolts out the next time you need to remove the chain guard.
What ever you do don't use locktite on the button head or flat head chain guard bolts!!
 
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