Hp and set up

Phiddy

Member
I would think just the opposite. Not getting the RR too hot is a key for me, once its done you are just along for a ride. Usually high HP karts weigh more, so getting it around the turn is a bigger issue. Nose weight is still important to me, less if you have a wing up front. Not overdriving, being smooth, and getting it to rotate properly is top on my list. Hitting your marks is a big plus, but that is in the overdriving it part, I guess? I would say tires are the biggest difference, but I never ran stock classes so I really don't know?
 
Im not in a wedge kart. Just our open small block class. I just think most setups on here are for the stock clone stuff and was wondering what people change for closer to double hp of stockers.
 

flattop1

Dawg 89
One thing to consider is your going to be entering the corner faster .
You need good turning ability .
Big brakes also are a help , when you hit them you want to slow down not just glide slower .
 

1fasttiller

Active member
I think higher HP karts need to turn much better and can afford to be slightly loose and kick the rear end around. Corner entry speed is much higher so a push is detrimental. I would also think slightly higher duro tires, as the extra HP and weight could easily kill a set of soft tires in a few laps. I also know a few guys that run open and use much lower cross. They need to stay "locked down" as much as they can.
 
I have dropped cross some and it seemed to help. I run both low and higher hp classes so I noticed it seems to like 2 totally different setups. Of course its 2 different karts but way different setups.
 
What is the reason for this? Because ive always seemed to have to add a .5% or so. Maybe my lack of driving skills lol.
 

paulkish

Premium User
It's all about available grip and how you use the grip available to you.

Raise hp or weight and if your going to go faster you need to have more grip available to use.

The thing about fast no matter what your racing is being able to maintain as much momentum as possible between turn in and the start of acceleration. The only trade off is dependent on hp. If you have hp available to you for straight away acceleration then you might give up loosing some momentum between turn in and the start of acceleration to your tires being bound to the track when turning. But even then if you have grip available then because of additional right side grip you might even maintain a higher speed between turn in and the start of acceleration.

There's only two reasons which will cause you to slow during turn in and the start of acceleration. The first is not having hp or grip available to maintain a set or average speed between turn in and the start of acceleration. And two is using too much of your available hp per the amount of available grip. Running it loose between turn in and the start of acceleration or high speeding it in to slide it around the turn may be fun but it ain't fast.

I think with the amount of hp your indicating all you need is a box stock type setup for a slick track at the most. Putting any more grip to it front or back, to do this or that, will just slow you down and screw up any chance of the balance you still need between the fronts and back, "between turn in and the start of acceleration".

maybe??? because this is all just IMHO and ain't necessarily right anyway. ... :)
 

Yakattack

Active member
I don’t have a lot of HP out of my Yz250f, or my yz144...
From a pro-Clone I would be pretty much set it at factory settings on everything...
When I mounted the YZ on the Kart...
I left nose the same 45-47%, dropped cross from 65% down to 50%... left side same at 56-57%
Touch more positive LF +1-1.5 camber, RF around -2.5...

Tires mostly 33’s... at around 4.5-5lbs all tires except RF which I usually run around 7lbs...
Which is pretty much the same set up as the billet bored and stroked Animals I run with...
 

paulkish

Premium User
Low cross verses high cross can always be faster but the sweet spot with low cross is not as big as with high cross.

The difference IMHO is in the amount of time you have to get weight moved between your weights physical and dynamic location and where it needs to be to take care of you between turn in and the start of acceleration. The lower you have your cross, the closer weight is already located towards where you'll need it at your right side tires, again between turn in and the start of acceleration.

The rest is the path you cause weight to travel to where you need it for acceleration.

High or low cross is also only relevant to what your racing your basic setup and the basic setup of what your racing against and the situation. If you really want to compare your increased hp and moving towards lower cross in hp terms then you might want to attend a WoO 410 race and concentrate your low cross thoughts on Donny Schatz's car. IMHO with more then only my thoughts on it if your going to compare WoO 410's then his car is low cross in comparison. again all of this is really just IMHO and ain't necessairly right anyway. ... :)
 
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That's the reason I think it will work on my local tracks if im reading your statement correctly. Very small tight corner tracks. I could just not be understanding correctly also.
 

paulkish

Premium User
That's the reason I think it will work on my local tracks if im reading your statement correctly. Very small tight corner tracks. I could just not be understanding correctly also.
yep, i'm sure I could just not be understanding correctly also. this stuff ain't easy ... :)
 

paulkish

Premium User
Very small tight corner tracks
Thinking about what I quoted and never considering it from a time perspective before, I'm thinking yes quicker reacting weight placement to where it's needed, if it is true with low cross as I'm indicating, might help.

What kind of banking do your small tight corner tracks have?

Banking as well as grip effects how you need to aim weight moving towards the right.

Here's a question for you if your into Super Late Models. When a track is high grip and you see the Supers hiked up in a corner throwing their spoilers into the sky, are they dumping weight onto the right rear so they put maximum hp to it and go ... or are they freeing the car up raising weight up and aiming it out into never never land? ????????? ... :)
 
Both have banking. One is almost 45 degree in the straits but much less in the corners. The other is maybe 20 degree with less in the corners. Still banked in the corners just less than the straits.
 

95 shaw

Premium User
45 degree on the straight?

I kart raced on Lebanon Mo 3/8 stock car track with 30 degree in top of corners. You could hang your feet over the top edge of the track.

Racing groove was 10 degree on straights with corners banked 7 at bottom, 15 in middle, and 30 on top. Engine gained rpm as you dropped into the corner. Massively intense.

Of course, you realize 45 degrees is a 1:1 slope?
As in, 1 foot over in 1 foot up . Road ditch back slopes are generally 3:1.

Cannot imagine dropping off 45 degree straights to a corner with much less banking.
A pic, or link to pics would be awesome. Video of a lap, even moreso.
 
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