I’m completely a newbie. Need some input

Bobzilla

New member
I need some opinions...
I’m completely a newbie when it comes to Kart racing and I’ve always wanted to get into it. I’m tired of thinking about and want to start entertaining the idea of buying one. I don’t know anything about what’s good and what’s bad and the why behind it. I would say the only things I’m pretty confident about is that I’m not ready for a shifter or DD2. Lol. From what I’m guessing the class below A DD2 would be a Rotax 125 Max evo

I’m looking at a few different kart setups and why would one be better than the other. I’m 5’9. 260 lbs.

1. 2016 SODI Sigma RS3 - TAG Kart
IAME X30 125CC Motor

2. 2008 CRG Road Rebel kart with 125cc Max
Rotax motor


These are two different types of motors but similar in class. Can you race a Rotax engine or IAME 30 in the same class?




Thanks for the input.

Bobby.
 
Awesome. Thanks for the help. I tried googling some kart forms but couldn’t find crap. I will check it out.
 
The first thing for you to do is to visit the tracks where you will be racing and learn which class which meets your performance expectations has the most entries. Then walk around the pits asking each racer you see who has something for sale which will fill your needs.

Then rule #1 comes into play which has been true for every racer.

Rule #1, no matter what you pay for your first kart and cost to put it on the track, you paid too much so don't worry about it and go race.

Rule #1, buy something and go race because the most important 3 things are seat time, seat time and seat time.

Then follow rule #1, The only reason to race is to find out who the winner is and your only reason for being there is to race to win. Satisfaction/fun will then show itself to you in bits and pieces of a puzzle which you will have to put together. As with any puzzle you will look for and find the corner pieces first. ... :)

If you have questions on sprint/road racing this is also a great place for help. Right now I don't think you even know what questions you need to ask. Ask what ever comes to mind because the number of questions about racing sprint or oval are endless. Ask ! ... :)
 
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There is a sprint section Don't be afraid to make a post there .
I'm thinking the rotax is high maintenance and the x 30 could be out of date.
post where and which tracks as it will make a difference in whats raced .
go to the track see whats really going on.
the lo206 would be my recommendation , for a first timer .
Rule #1 still applies .
 
First off where are you located? Where are you planning to race?

The Sodi with the X30 is a newer setup and the X30 is the newest IAME engine. It is very popular and can pretty much be raced anywhere.
The Rotax is a great engine and requires less maintenance and rebuilds, but it is finicky for newbies. And not as popular as it once was.

Depends on the series and track, but both can be raced together in a Tag class. However a lot of places will separate them into their own class.

Ok, here is my bit of advice. I've been racing karts for 35 years and have raced in every type of karting, oval, sprint, road racing.

Skip the Tag engines and get a Briggs LO206. Yes it is slower, but far less of a headache than jumping into karting and going to a Tag engine. You can always start with the 206 and then sell the engine to get a Tag later. After all my years racing I really enjoy running the 206 even though it is slower than almost everything else I've raced. But with the close wheel to wheel racing it feels very fast. Plus it is very easy to maintain and it is really the perfect engine for some one just getting into karting.

If you still decided to go with a Tag, even though they are a bit much for a newbie. I'd go with the X30, since a lot of people race them.

However, I've seen many people jump into karting and go straight to a Tag and end up leaving karting after a year or 2, because they get discouraged and are sick of the headaches and costs of a Tag.

Any other questions just ask.
 
X30's need a piston after 5 hrs. Many Rotax's have gone 50+ hours. X30's are the current pinnacle of US non-shifter racing, and you'll get frustrated quickly... Rotaxes are making a resurgence now that J3 has acquired the US rights for series... Between those 2 options, I'd pick the Rotax, no question. And they're not finicky if jetted properly, and Rotax has an app to tell you how to jet properly. the parts, however, will be more expensive. But they'll last longer, so kinda' a wash. And the Rotax series offers its' own nationals which qualify you to go to an international race, everyone on same engine. LO206 great place to start....it won't be "slow" to a karting newb.
 
LO206 is the biggest class at most sprint tracks now. It's very simple and reliable, so it makes a perfect platform for newbies to jump in and get their feet wet. Good competition, very close racing, and not nearly as hard on tires (and wallet) as higher HP classes. That would be my recommendation.
If we can help with the engine package, we'd be glad to talk to you further about it. Just give us a call at the shop.


-----
Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
30 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
X30's need a piston after 5 hrs. Many Rotax's have gone 50+ hours. X30's are the current pinnacle of US non-shifter racing, and you'll get frustrated quickly... Rotaxes are making a resurgence now that J3 has acquired the US rights for series... Between those 2 options, I'd pick the Rotax, no question. And they're not finicky if jetted properly, and Rotax has an app to tell you how to jet properly. the parts, however, will be more expensive. But they'll last longer, so kinda' a wash. And the Rotax series offers its' own nationals which qualify you to go to an international race, everyone on same engine. LO206 great place to start....it won't be "slow" to a karting newb.


Thanks for the info! Can you race x30 and Rotax in the same class?
 
If you're interested in LONG TRACK (think Road America, CoTA, etc.,) then your best option, bar none, is Rotax, running in TaG heavy. LO206 is great on sprint, but less than exciting on a long track unless you're into drafting and wide open all the time... If you want sprint, there are some places where the X30 and Rotax MAY run together in a lumped TaG class, but probably X30 has its' own classes and the rest are lumped together...
 
If you're interested in LONG TRACK (think Road America, CoTA, etc.,) then your best option, bar none, is Rotax, running in TaG heavy. LO206 is great on sprint, but less than exciting on a long track unless you're into drafting and wide open all the time... If you want sprint, there are some places where the X30 and Rotax MAY run together in a lumped TaG class, but probably X30 has its' own classes and the rest are lumped together...


Is spring racing “oval track”
 
Is spring racing “oval track”

Oval or LTO (Left Turn Only) = OVAL
Sprint - Short track (.5-1.2 mi. road course asphalt racing)
Road Racing - Long Track (1-3 mi.) full size car track asphalt road racing
Street Race - Temporary course on city streets that are blocked off
 
Oval or LTO (Left Turn Only) = OVAL
Sprint - Short track (.5-1.2 mi. road course asphalt racing)
Road Racing - Long Track (1-3 mi.) full size car track asphalt road racing
Street Race - Temporary course on city streets that are blocked off



Ahhh. Thanks!! Then I’m interested in Sprint racing not road course. I’m glad I asked the question! Thanks for the help.
 
Bobby, you're getting real good advise from these folks.

My Son and I road race (sports car tracks, half hour races). We have both run nearly every type of kart except dirt ovals. 250 Superkarts down to 206's. Sprint and road racing. My Son Clark Jr for 30 years, me at 57 years. That said:

Currently Jr. runs a DR kart with a IAME X30 Tag and a CIK style Margay Ignite Briggs LO206. I also run a Margay Ignite LO206. I'm 70, so the 206's have kept me in it. I can still drive a 206, where an X30 or shifter has become a bit too much.

X30. to be truly competitive, new tires at each event (two day events). Engine, top to bottom rebuild every 8 -12 hours. Price $800 to $1000. If you wait too long and it breaks something...keep your head down!!! Engine package $4K. Clutch friction hub replacement $180, 2 or 3 a season. Onboard battery which MUST be keep healthy and charged, or it will not start...or external starter which must be charged as well. Various lengths of flex for pipe adjustments. It eats sprockets and chains. Carb adjustment done on the fly, and you need to know what you're doing or you will seize it. High quality gauge for exhaust temp, water temp and RPM critical! 32+ HP, no joke for a newbe. They are a handfull. Note: NEVER under any circumstance let ANYONE talk you into a shifter of any sort for your first kart!!! They are an absolute hoot, but they won't be fun for very long! Maybe years down the road, but not now!!

206. clutch $120-130? Hilliard's we've both had for 3 seasons. Take off, clean, lub, reinstall. I have no idea how long they'll last! We MIGHT just change them or buy a spare for no good reason. Tires, once a season and not because they're worn out. It just seems like the right thing to do! My son runs his take off MG's from the X30 on his 206 AND they work GREAT! Freshen motor (head and carb) once a season...Brian/Jim/others? $100 and a bit, plus parts!!! WOW. Not sure how long sprockets and chains last. They don't have enough HP to top heat them up and wear them out. Maybe 2, 3 seasons? Pump gas if fine. (X30 needs 98 ish octane to be reliable, plus VERY high end oils). Briggs 4T oil, not that pricey and change it a lot. No big deal. Does not require high end Euro chassis to work. You'll spend MUCH more time on the track and messing with your driving and chassis adjustments, then mother henning a motor! Motor package about $1000, including high end engine mount, pipe, chain guard, clutch, air cleaner, etc. (worth every penny I might add on the engine mount. Jim, just saw one of yours last weekend..neat! We already have Odenthal's). For $600 you can have a spare motor!!! Geeez.

At a typical event we spend most of our 206 time (which isn't much) monkeying with front end, tread width, seat position, and tire pressures adjustments. Then going out in practice with a few other friends and see what our crazy adjustments did! MOTOR is NOT an issue or a worry!! Put them aside and WORK on the X30!! All the same stuff we do with the 206's, we do with the X30...but we ALWAYS are double and triple checking the motor. It's also very handy that our engine builder is at most of our road race events. Constant plug, piston and pipe readings. Temp checks on the gauge to correlate gauge vs plug readings. Water check. And NEVER forget to check and oil the chain between every track session. Check it's reeds between events, rebuild card a couple times a season. Plugs that are stupid expensive, at least one or two per event.

Getting then picture? Go with the 206 1st. You'll have way more fun and learn more then any X30/Rotax could ever do. Watch the Tag's and shifter's for future reference. Also watch the air cooled 100cc Tag's. They are the next big thing. (ref: IAME KA100 or Vortex equivalent. Really neat packages. We're watching them very closely in WKA road racing land. They're already there in sprint racing).

BUT, if you really insist---go with the X30. They are more popular Nation wide. And you have Brian Fisher (Fisherracingengines) in Texas to help!

There are a lot of very experienced and helpful folks on this site. Do your research, go to your local tracks, look around, ask questions, learn. There is NO hurry! Buy what you need the first time. Not what you think you want now! I have seen too many times someone buy a shifter because they are so cool>>>and be out of karting in two season, totally frustrated, with a lot less money and pissed at themselves for buying such a stupid thing. Take your time.

Good luck, enjoy the research, have fun, and welcome to karting.
Clark Gaynor Sr.
WKA NRRC Member.
WKC Board Member.
 
Get in the smallest motor class you can . It will force you to learn how to drive very smoothly and to set the kart up right . GCK in Kady use to run 820's , you had to have everything right to win. A year or two in that class move up and you will be fast
 
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