Infiniti 2010 epic evolution bad push

Anyone have problems with there chassis not being very consistent it's either unbeatable or pushes very badly it seems to be very tire pressure sensitive
 
It still pushes when the track hasn't dusted off but not as bad I need to get it on the scales to give everyone my #'s but I also probably need to find out what #'s I should run I weight 165 need to weigh 375 adult clone I have the RF spindle center and LF I started with the spindle all the way up with only 2 washers on top for the most cross and then changed it to the middle on the LF didn't seem to notice much of a difference to help to push
 
That's more from the track changing than pressure change unless your going to extreme, as Kyle points out give details of when good and when bad.
 
It still pushes when the track hasn't dusted off but not as bad I need to get it on the scales to give everyone my #'s but I also probably need to find out what #'s I should run I weight 165 need to weigh 375 adult clone I have the RF spindle center and LF I started with the spindle all the way up with only 2 washers on top for the most cross and then changed it to the middle on the LF didn't seem to notice much of a difference to help to push
Sounds like you started off without scaling it, your lucky there is any point where it's anywhere close.
 
I have heard some people say cross is a fine tune adjustment and some say it's a very important adjustment, before I have noticed it make a big difference on a 4 wheel drift loose everywhere added cross and it went away now I'm fighting to figure out why nothing a change air, cross, and left side weight has done anything to help the push and my front nose of my body have 4 or 5 laters of fiberglass on it the nose weighs allot like 3 or 4 times more then a regular fiberglass nose so I technically should be way over on nose and my seat is all the way forward
 
I have heard some people say cross is a fine tune adjustment and some say it's a very important adjustment, before I have noticed it make a big difference on a 4 wheel drift loose everywhere added cross and it went away now I'm fighting to figure out why nothing a change air, cross, and left side weight has done anything to help the push and my front nose of my body have 4 or 5 laters of fiberglass on it the nose weighs allot like 3 or 4 times more then a regular fiberglass nose so I technically should be way over on nose and my seat is all the way forward
You really need to get on scales asap and start over.
 
Your spindle position seemed close that’s about where mine where when I had mine, probably put your around 62/64 cross depending on other variables but keep the RF there.
 
46 nose weight, 46.5 max. Too much left will make a 4 wheel drift as well as a push if your not unloading the LR. Is your seat strut 3.5” in from the inner motor rail or close to it? Your about the same size as me, no lead you should be around 56/56.5 left mount your lead equally on the sides of your seat, if you need more or less left take one off and double up the other side
 
It took me a little while to figure mine out, wanted it gone in the worst way at one point. Glad I kept it, with a little help it was a rocket. First time I ever went to racingpromotors track I had engine problems all day, finally switched to my backup for the bmain started 24th and drove up to 4th (only 3 made it) with a lap time around what 5th was in the Amain for a $2000 to win show. That was in 2014 with a 2008 Epic 👌 I been at this for 15 years, still learn a lot every day. Not always the fastest but have my moments against the big guys
 
Ya I have had this chassis since 2013 or 2014 it was my newsest chassis I ever owned stepup from my older 90's legend I usually ran an open animal or predator on treads now switching to slicks and wanting to run a clone class some this year it's either unbeatable rocket or it's a turd in the corners have to stab the brake to even get it to turn into the corners very upset after being completely outran in my first clone race at a new track I went to gearing was correct for the cl1 cam that was in a older clone I had need to refresh and get a new cl2 cam and new valve springs, i bought a phantom minecon this year and love it always wanted a phantom i haven't even had it on the scales yet bought it used from a buddy and it's always fast i run Hoosier treads class with a out of box stock predator I need to get my epic on the scales for sure and get some base #'s in it called Carlson today going to use there tire program on my maxxis tires we have Sandy corn dirt here in nebraksa track is the fastest when it drys out and dusts off, I really need to figure it out tho because I got my 4 year old son a 2010 epic also for a good price and want him to be competitive when he is able to start racing rookie next year
 
I still run my 2012 champ from time to time. All I can add about the cross is I’ve come to realize it may be more in the driver than you think. Example two different drivers same kart all I change to run myself is like 3 washers which on our kart is almost 9% which is a huge swing and we’ll run same lap times. Have you played with rf camber or the caster at all yet? There is speed up there to be found.
 
Anyone have a setup for an R1 champ that they would like to share? Maybe a starting point?

Clone 410/425 on dirt
 
I still run my 2012 champ from time to time. All I can add about the cross is I’ve come to realize it may be more in the driver than you think. Example two different drivers same kart all I change to run myself is like 3 washers which on our kart is almost 9% which is a huge swing and we’ll run same lap times. Have you played with rf camber or the caster at all yet? There is speed up there to be found.
I haven't messed with camber and caster much I think I usually leave caster 12-8 and camber at around LF +.5 to +1 and RF at -2.75 one day I was running my treads with my open motor had a 4 wheel drift kinda all over didn't seem like I was getting any forward bite just blowing the tires off added some cross not sire how much but it gave it allot more forward bite and tightened the chassis up
 
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