Intek 900 series flywheel options

S

scooter_trasher

Member
I recently acquired a cast iron bore, bearing crank Intek 900 series engine that is going on a mini bike that will see around 6k on occasion ,not a racer, pipe, carb and governor delete will be the performance upgrades , a new takeoff animal rod, a stock animal cam ( if the one on it is plastic when I pull the cover) and flywheel for strength.
I'm looking to decide between a castiron flathead wheel ( if it will fit), a jr racer, stock animal (steel?) or an ARC wheel, any thoughts ?
 
Depends on the coil it has .
If its the standard two leg the jr race car will work .
Animal uses pvl coil .
Except the very first ones with jr race car flywheels.
 
Ya on the coil ,it should be a stock magnatron, I'm wondering if converting to a PVL coil is worth the trouble, if a jr dragster will fit , will an ARC Flathead billet wheel, or a stock 5hp flathead wheel, I have a couple of those, just looking to weigh cost vs benefits, Have the carbs, $25 shipped scored a new takeout animal rod, the new stock animal cam is 10 bucks + 10 to ship ( I may grab two of those) My thoughts are I can have a ball bearing, cast iron bore ,Briggs 205 ,with a pipe and vm22 or pz22 for the price of an aluminum bore, bushing crank predator 212, half the cost of a ghost , or a quarter the cost of a LO206, if they were available at suggested retail.
 
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flattop1 said:
The coils are not direct fit .
Click to expand...
OK I would need to make or buy a bracket, I guess I'll find out if a flathead wheel will fit when I take the shroud off, I don't need to make things complicated, I just like the idea of having an ignition that retards for pull starting.
 
scooter_trasher said:
OK I would need to make or buy a bracket, I guess I'll find out if a flathead wheel will fit when I take the shroud off, I don't need to make things complicated, I just like the idea of having an ignition that retards for pull starting.
Click to expand...
If you slowly pull the engine up to compression, the reset your starter rope, you will have 2 complete revolutions of the crank before the ignition has any effect on starting difficulty.
That usually gives enough momentum that you don't notice any kickback.

Just fyi, if you cannot make the briggs pvl coil work for your application.
Usually the compression release or lack thereof, has a larger effect than the spark.
 
95 shaw said:
If you slowly pull the engine up to compression, the reset your starter rope, you will have 2 complete revolutions of the crank before the ignition has any effect on starting difficulty.
That usually gives enough momentum that you don't notice any kickback.

Just fyi, if you cannot make the briggs pvl coil work for your application.
Usually the compression release or lack thereof, has a larger effect than the spark.
Click to expand...
I figured the PVL would be one revolution retarded , electronic ignition cant advance past the trigger they only retard , usually nearly one revolution behind. Been there with Shovelhead Harleys. I guess it's moot now, I just found a Jr Driver wheel, a Dyno cam an001 w/compression release and some other bits for a sweet price.
 
All flywheel triggered ignitions fire the spark plug on every revolution .

The Briggs pvl simply delays the fire point, until a certain rpm is reached.
 
95 shaw said:
All flywheel triggered ignitions fire the spark plug on every revolution .

The Briggs pvl simply delays the fire point, until a certain rpm is reached.
Click to expand...
Absolutely , they fire every time they cross the trigger, but they cant advance past the trigger , they have no crystal ball saying it's coming , they only really retard the timing
 
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