Issue with axle

Ok, you need to take the right caliper half off and slide the brake rotor to the right so it's a non factor. Now everytime you use your file you have to sandpaper the file marks smooth and clean everything in that area again.

You can distort the end of the axle if you hit it too hard so use a piece of wood to even out the hammer blow. If it won't go through the right bearing the cir clip slot probably has some high metal or the end of the axle is out of round or maybe there's high metal on the end of the axle.

Worse case take the axle out the other side, even worse take the bearings out of the chassis and beat them off the axle with a mallet. If lines and grooves start to form along the length of the axle stop and call in the experts.

You have to keep working with it and cleaning it before each attempt and don't beat it to death. Once you get it off go over the whole thing and smooth it out good and clean it before putting it back.
 
I have to change out my sprocket hub to put a new one on. I got some advice about what I needed to do. Slide the axle out, put the new one in, then slide it back in. I loosened all the screws I was supposed to, removed the screws from the bearings, filed down the spots from those screws. I had to use a rubber mallet just to get the axle to move. I got it all the way flush with the bearings. I tried pulling from the other end and it will not budge. Any tips on what to do..

Been there done that as most on here have too but they ain't going to admit starting out they also screwed up axle parts like your likely to do. ... :)

Unless you've been a real fuss budget all your life keeping everything spotless the axle is bound and not wanting to come out because of dirt being caught between the axle and parts slid onto it. You did your duty well filing and deburring but the smallest piece of dirt can and "will" negate all your machine shop efforts.

If your like me your most likely to end up using brute force to get the axle and parts apart. The better way to go from here is to use minor/limited brute force to get each part to move just a smidgen. Once you got something on the axle to budge even the slightest and assuming you did indeed get rid of burrs, then it's get some wd40 or what ever else you think will cut the dirt and drip/soak/dribble some liquid or cleaner in between the axle and the part your removing. I think you will find if your very patient and take your time the little bit of movement you get will gradually increase as the dirt binding the axle to what ever part slowly is melted and removed. It's usually dirt or chemical build up that binds it so tightly. Usually you don't have to worry about a small stone which will not dissolve jammint the part to the axle because the tolerances between the axle and part are small. And if you keep the key way aligned when flushing/cleaning the part loose any bigger stuff which might be causing a problem will remain in the large slotted keyway area.

Good luck. At this point I think your either going to have to beat the heck out of or even press parts appart slightly screwing them up or your going to have to have patience getting each item to slightly move and then clean and work it loose.

... and that is all with my first cup of coffee, is IMHO and ain't necessairly right anyway. ... :)


edit for more useless info: I know one racer who was taught as a youngster by his dad, per his dads story to me, to clean his kart after each race with a tooth brush. I asked him as a young adult if he really did it, he told me yes and then explained to me the karts not all that big and it really doesn't take as long as you might think to clean your kart with a tooth brush. I think after years of thinking about what he does that it's not a bad idea and doing so will force you to look at each and every part of your kart after each race.
 
Been there done that as most on here have too but they ain't going to admit starting out they also screwed up axle parts like your likely to do. ... :)

Unless you've been a real fuss budget all your life keeping everything spotless the axle is bound and not wanting to come out because of dirt being caught between the axle and parts slid onto it. You did your duty well filing and deburring but the smallest piece of dirt can and "will" negate all your machine shop efforts.

If your like me your most likely to end up using brute force to get the axle and parts apart. The better way to go from here is to use minor/limited brute force to get each part to move just a smidgen. Once you got something on the axle to budge even the slightest and assuming you did indeed get rid of burrs, then it's get some wd40 or what ever else you think will cut the dirt and drip/soak/dribble some liquid or cleaner in between the axle and the part your removing. I think you will find if your very patient and take your time the little bit of movement you get will gradually increase as the dirt binding the axle to what ever part slowly is melted and removed. It's usually dirt or chemical build up that binds it so tightly. Usually you don't have to worry about a small stone which will not dissolve jammint the part to the axle because the tolerances between the axle and part are small. And if you keep the key way aligned when flushing/cleaning the part loose any bigger stuff which might be causing a problem will remain in the large slotted keyway area.

Good luck. At this point I think your either going to have to beat the heck out of or even press parts appart slightly screwing them up or your going to have to have patience getting each item to slightly move and then clean and work it loose.

... and that is all with my first cup of coffee, is IMHO and ain't necessairly right anyway. ... :)


edit for more useless info: I know one racer who was taught as a youngster by his dad, per his dads story to me, to clean his kart after each race with a tooth brush. I asked him as a young adult if he really did it, he told me yes and then explained to me the karts not all that big and it really doesn't take as long as you might think to clean your kart with a tooth brush. I think after years of thinking about what he does that it's not a bad idea and doing so will force you to look at each and every part of your kart after each race.

Thanks for this info. That's what I have been trying. I have sprayed wd40 in the holes from the set screws, where the axle is passing through the bearing cassette, the brake hub. I have been working the brake hub back and forth trying to get it to loosen up. I have been using the rubber mallet to move the axle back and forth from both ends. Hoping that something would loosen up with more movement, eventually getting it to the point where I can get the axle all the way out. Now that I am learning more about the kart, I want to be able to do routine maintenance on the kart on a regular basis not only to keep it in the best shape possible, but I'm sure it will help with performance as well. I paid a decent amount of money for the kart and I would like to try and protect the investment. I plan on cleaning this regularly. It's obvious the person I bought it from did not. If this keeps giving me problems, I might just take it to the kart shop at the track. I spoke with them and they charge $65/hr for labor and said they could get the axle out and put on the new sprocket hub and guard in about 30 minutes. Might be worth the small investment, and then ask them to show me how they got the axle out so I would know exactly what to do if this issue comes up in the future.
 
A flat file may do wonders for you too.

You may have a high spot next to what your trying to slide off the axle axle for what ever reason. If you can back it off away from where it becomes stuck, careful observation may show you a high spot that has developed in the axle. Sometimes it just takes a few swipes with a flat file to knock it down and then the hub will move more. If you get a part which you can spin or revolve around the axle, sometimes if you move the keyway to the high spot you can get the part past it without any filing. You'll get it it's just a matter of patience finding out why it's stuck and either washing it away or removing it(file), it can and will come apart.
 
OK, problem solved. I tried everything I could. Nothing worked. I got to a point where I started to see a scratch develop along the axle. As soon as I saw that, I stopped. Didn't want to do any damage. Took the kart up to the shop at gopro. I gave them the new sprocket hub and guard I bought and asked them to remove the axle and put that stuff on. Only took 1 hour and the charge was $65 bucks. I hated to do that, but nothing was working for me. I asked them how they got the axle off, but they didn't really want to tell me. They did a great job. If I had something serious that was above my knowledge level, I would absolutely take it to them again. I did notice that the axle had a good bit of grease on it when I picked it up from them. Can't wait to get this kart on the track and start practicing.
 
OK, problem solved. I tried everything I could. Nothing worked. I got to a point where I started to see a scratch develop along the axle. As soon as I saw that, I stopped. Didn't want to do any damage. Took the kart up to the shop at gopro. I gave them the new sprocket hub and guard I bought and asked them to remove the axle and put that stuff on. Only took 1 hour and the charge was $65 bucks. I hated to do that, but nothing was working for me. I asked them how they got the axle off, but they didn't really want to tell me. They are a business, so they can try and get me to come back. They did a great job. If I had something serious that was above my knowledge level, I would absolutely take it to them again. I did notice that the axle had a good bit of grease on it when I picked it up from them. Can't wait to get this kart on the track and start practicing.

Doesnt sound like a good shop. Another reason. New castle is one of if not the best track in the country. Comet karts supports their customers on race day [they own the track] for free. Have an engine that won't start? They will help you at the track. Carb issues, chassis issues, etc all available.

There's more to business that keeping secrets to yourself. You likely would never have to go back to them for this exact reason so they could have gotten so much future bus in mass from you if they would have shown you how they did it or at least told you. Not to mention they should want karting to grow not foster a situation where karters can't work on their own karts and get discouraged.
 
Doesnt sound like a good shop. Another reason. New castle is one of if not the best track in the country. Comet karts supports their customers on race day [they own the track] for free. Have an engine that won't start? They will help you at the track. Carb issues, chassis issues, etc all available.

xxxx
 
You actually made the right choice.
Kart shop on site is pretty handy.
Your skill level will continue to improve.
They may not have said much because some times repair can be pretty barbaric or just the opposite higly technical.
 
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If it was a 5 minute job I would agree, but it is a business, not a charity. 65.00 for an hour is a bargain. Kartsport is not run by GoPro, they have rent to pay also.

I'd say the grease tells the tale Bill, if you look at your axle carefully, it'll probably tell the rest of the tale.

Most guys fall into two categories. The manimals, like me, and guys that are too careful, like Bill. We all learn our lessons eventually and end up in the same place.
65.00 is still much cheaper than a new 50mm axle. Get your stuff together Bill. Next race us 8-25. Be ready to race, you can only learn so much driving around on practice days.
 
True . The real secret. Was likely a bigger hammer. Or the technical use there of . Hard to fatom but you can use a hammer with technical delicately . I've seen plenty of people struggle with the axle and it's components.
 
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If it was a 5 minute job I would agree, but it is a business, not a charity. 65.00 for an hour is a bargain. Kartsport is not run by GoPro, they have rent to pay also.

I'd say the grease tells the tale Bill, if you look at your axle carefully, it'll probably tell the rest of the tale.

Most guys fall into two categories. The manimals, like me, and guys that are too careful, like Bill. We all learn our lessons eventually and end up in the same place.
65.00 is still much cheaper than a new 50mm axle. Get your stuff together Bill. Next race us 8-25. Be ready to race, you can only learn so much driving around on practice days.

I'm not complaining at all about what I had to pay. I was actually quite pleased with it only being $65 dollars. I thought it was going to be more. Bruce, I tried everything with that axle. All the suggestions from people on here, I tried. If I had more experience with removing an axle, I would have continued to try myself. I understand kartsport is a business, I stated that in one of my posts. I never expected them to do work for free. They have been very helpful to me. They always take the time to answer my questions, and they took the time to help when my front wheel came flying off. They did that work for free. My frustration was having to take it there in the first place, and not being able to do the work myself. I don't think there is anything wrong with being too careful. I personally believe " measure twice, cut once". . I have looked at that axle and cannot figure out why it would not come off. There was something I was missing.
 
It always amazes me when I see business owners that don't really understand how to use social media to their advantage!

I don't completely understand the real meaning of your post but I guarantee Peewee and MGM team are the best help you can get. That's the main reason why I offered you my MGM kart but many times when we buy a kart we forget to check this aspect. When I bought my MGM new I was gonna buy a used kart and before I even considered buying a new one or anything from them Paul and his dad at MGM were already offering to help me at the track with no charge. That made me think I should check their karts and they gave me a great price and we're at the track to help me those 1st races on the new MGM. Then whenever I had any issue or needed help their customer service was great and never got anything overpriced from them. I still have that MGM and when I see most people buying karts from fancy brands that offer no help or very expensive help or when people buy stuff forgetting they might need assistance if they haven't got much experience it makes me wonder...
 
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