It bogs down and looses rpm apex out ... the why ?

paulkish

old fart
I had some thoughts on it and didn't want to hijack another thread so here goes.

I'll start out this is IMHO and ain't necessarily right anyway. ... :)

And I'll start by making a statement where if you don't think the statement is right, then you don't need to read on listening to bull, which I think is supporting the up front statement.

Apex out any time there's a loss of rpm, it's because tires are fighting each other for control of direction.

____________________________

If your like me when someone says something like that, you immediately start thinking of conditions where it might not be true. After writing it I did the same. My first thought was well you could have a track where apex out it's up hill and it just takes some time apex out to get going. Then my thoughts went to, well yes and no it all depends on available hp too. That always happens with me because even though on here we are normally talking about racing conditions, where what your racing has more then enough available grip, but is down on available hp. But that's just me because we have raced stuff of both applications. And it especially came to mind today because yesterday I got to discuss it with someone who races UAS. When I asked do you ever have a problem with it being tight or loosing rpm apex out, the answer was never it's always only a matter of not spinning wheels apex out. Enough of that because my mind set for what follows is were on the edge of grip and able to put all the hp available to the track. And were so finely on the edge that any extra use of grip, eats hp and rpm.

Next the why of rpm loss because hp needed to accelerate apex out is eaten up by grip.

Back too the basics of my theory of how a staggered solid axle needs to be used in the ideal way. Yes it's boring to hear it again. But if it's correct which I believe it is, because of many knowledgeable racers have told me it is over the years, you won't hear about it anywhere else except from out of my fingers on here. The general reply I've gotten over the years about it is "I've never hear things explained that way before and it fits exactly into my understanding. Enough of that, nawww never enough of that for this old fart. ... :)

Anyway without throwing in some weird racing conditions, there is not going to be any loss of rpm apex out unless your available hp is exceeded by excessive use of available grip. In fact apex out you should already be on the gas and accelerating. Ideally you've already done all your slowing down, storing energy traveling up the bank of the track and have accomplished most of your turning before you got to the mythical apex how ever you define it in your mind. At that point you have already transitioned to accelerating and are exiting onto the straight needing to do less and less turning.

And naturally to understand how things are working or need to be working I have to go back to my usual basic theory. Up until the point of acceleration to cause your staggered solid axle roll around the turn while you were slowing, storing energy and turning, ideally you had enough weight on the LR that it acted like a brake or anchor, allowing the RR to roll around the anchored LR. You could only use it in that way because it is a smaller tire and the surface speed of the smaller LR tire, when pushed into the track acting as a pivot for the bigger RR tire and it's faster surface speed to roll around.

Now that that's setup and we have ended slowing down, we need to accelerate and still continue to be able to roll your staggered solid axle on to the straight, in the direction you want to go. And the definition of the direction you want to go is you need the axle to continue to turn and lessen the amount of turning on down the so called straight. That's accomplished by moving enough weight under acceleration to the bigger RR tire so it's faster surface speed, can now out accelerate the smaller LR tire and it's slower surface speed. Here's the picture to digest. Going into the apex your slowing down anyway and moving weight away from the left side and LR. And ideally you've retained enough weight on the LR to allow it to act as an anchor for the RR to roll around. You've needed next to nothing in the way of steering input. Very little steering input was needed, because you have your axle rolling in the direction you want to go and all the fronts are needed for is to carry weight sent to them because your decelerating and to get the front to go where the back already wants it to go.

The situation is you have a LR still loaded enough that the RR can roll around it and the slightest acceleration, instantly starts weight back to the rear and the reduction in turning instantly starts weight back to the left side. Here's the ideal for the acceleration which is to come. Weight which instantly is moved to the left and rear because acceleration has started and turning is being reduced, will be moved mainly to the LR, with just enough going to the RR, so the RR with it's faster surface speed will be able to out accelerate the LR as needed to head onto the straight in the direction you want to go.

That's the ideal and sorry I can't write things in a quick short manner.

OK, so we have little hp available for the acceleration, gobs of grip and lets get on to where the problem of loss of rpm comes from. I guess the easiest way to do it is to move on to something not ideal which causes a conflict between tires for control of direction apex out while accelerating, having limited hp to accelerate. The first is what if too much weight gets moved to the RR apex out.

Back to basic theory first. All tires have a natural way they want to roll and the way they want to roll, for all practical purposes, defines the direction straight. Anytime you need to make a tire roll in a direction other then what I defined as straight, input will be needed. When your slowing down you have stored up momentum to use to force them to go where you want to go. If your slowing down and already loading the axle as needed to make it roll in the direction you want to go, then your saving or maintaining maximum momentum. When accelerating if you don't have the axle loaded to go in the direction you want to go, you don't have stored up momentum to make them go where you want to go, you only have engine hp to do it. Well let's look at what happens if there's too much load moved to the RR. You only need to put enough weight to the RR so it will out accelerate the LR and make you go the direction you want. Now remember the RR even though your using it to out accelerate the LR, it still had a natural direction it wants to go which I defined as straight. Yes your using engine hp to force the RR tire to accelerate around the LR tire, but your only weighting it enough to make it out accelerate the LR. Now if you add more weight to it then is needed it's still going to want to roll in it's natural direction of straight, but because of the added weight it will take more effort to make it not roll straight. The only place to get the extra effort is from your accelerating engine. Put too much weight to the RR apex out and you can loose rpm's apex out, until you get to a point on the track where you are no longer turning as much and you have moved weight off of the RR. I started this thinking only about apex out or from the moment of acceleration out. How easy it is to over load the RR depends on where you start your acceleration and how much turning is being done when your acceleration starts. I think you will instantly relate to things hogging down if you start to accelerate while turning too much. Over loading the RR is not going to be so easy to perceive or tell when your apex off line is not as sharp a turn. You may not even notice any loss of anything. But weather you can tell or not if your putting more weight to the RR apex out or start of acceleration out, then is needed to cause the RR to out accelerate the LR, ... your eating hp and could be faster.

... got to stop and hope to continue on with this later by reading through it and editing it. posting it as is hoping it made some sense ... thanks for reading and any input at all is welcomed.
 
Just got back and took the long laborious time to read the bull I wrote.

all I can say is 'like' and thought I see some errors, it ain't bad nuff to take the time to fix. ... :)

My plan was to then bring in "what if apex out we get the LR loaded too much or too soon", ... but it's proly going to be a waist of time doing it, if what I wrote above isn't logical or true, can't be followed or is just flat out wrong. so I'll wait and see if it is meaningful to anyone and if it invokes a response or two, pro or con. ... :(
 
Keep it going Paul. It's making sense to me (sort of.) I'm willing to keep working the idea if you'll keep writing it ;)

DD
 
I had some thoughts on it and didn't want to hijack another thread so here goes.

I'll start out this is IMHO and ain't necessarily right anyway. ... :)

And I'll start by making a statement where if you don't think the statement is right, then you don't need to read on listening to bull, which I think is supporting the up front statement.

Apex out any time there's a loss of rpm, it's because tires are fighting each other for control of direction.

____________________________

If your like me when someone says something like that, you immediately start thinking of conditions where it might not be true. After writing it I did the same. My first thought was well you could have a track where apex out it's up hill and it just takes some time apex out to get going. Then my thoughts went to, well yes and no it all depends on available hp too. That always happens with me because even though on here we are normally talking about racing conditions, where what your racing has more then enough available grip, but is down on available hp. But that's just me because we have raced stuff of both applications. And it especially came to mind today because yesterday I got to discuss it with someone who races UAS. When I asked do you ever have a problem with it being tight or loosing rpm apex out, the answer was never it's always only a matter of not spinning wheels apex out. Enough of that because my mind set for what follows is were on the edge of grip and able to put all the hp available to the track. And were so finely on the edge that any extra use of grip, eats hp and rpm.

Next the why of rpm loss because hp needed to accelerate apex out is eaten up by grip.

Back too the basics of my theory of how a staggered solid axle needs to be used in the ideal way. Yes it's boring to hear it again. But if it's correct which I believe it is, because of many knowledgeable racers have told me it is over the years, you won't hear about it anywhere else except from out of my fingers on here. The general reply I've gotten over the years about it is "I've never hear things explained that way before and it fits exactly into my understanding. Enough of that, nawww never enough of that for this old fart. ... :)

Anyway without throwing in some weird racing conditions, there is not going to be any loss of rpm apex out unless your available hp is exceeded by excessive use of available grip. In fact apex out you should already be on the gas and accelerating. Ideally you've already done all your slowing down, storing energy traveling up the bank of the track and have accomplished most of your turning before you got to the mythical apex how ever you define it in your mind. At that point you have already transitioned to accelerating and are exiting onto the straight needing to do less and less turning.

And naturally to understand how things are working or need to be working I have to go back to my usual basic theory. Up until the point of acceleration to cause your staggered solid axle roll around the turn while you were slowing, storing energy and turning, ideally you had enough weight on the LR that it acted like a brake or anchor, allowing the RR to roll around the anchored LR. You could only use it in that way because it is a smaller tire and the surface speed of the smaller LR tire, when pushed into the track acting as a pivot for the bigger RR tire and it's faster surface speed to roll around.

Now that that's setup and we have ended slowing down, we need to accelerate and still continue to be able to roll your staggered solid axle on to the straight, in the direction you want to go. And the definition of the direction you want to go is you need the axle to continue to turn and lessen the amount of turning on down the so called straight. That's accomplished by moving enough weight under acceleration to the bigger RR tire so it's faster surface speed, can now out accelerate the smaller LR tire and it's slower surface speed. Here's the picture to digest. Going into the apex your slowing down anyway and moving weight away from the left side and LR. And ideally you've retained enough weight on the LR to allow it to act as an anchor for the RR to roll around. You've needed next to nothing in the way of steering input. Very little steering input was needed, because you have your axle rolling in the direction you want to go and all the fronts are needed for is to carry weight sent to them because your decelerating and to get the front to go where the back already wants it to go.

The situation is you have a LR still loaded enough that the RR can roll around it and the slightest acceleration, instantly starts weight back to the rear and the reduction in turning instantly starts weight back to the left side. Here's the ideal for the acceleration which is to come. Weight which instantly is moved to the left and rear because acceleration has started and turning is being reduced, will be moved mainly to the LR, with just enough going to the RR, so the RR with it's faster surface speed will be able to out accelerate the LR as needed to head onto the straight in the direction you want to go.

That's the ideal and sorry I can't write things in a quick short manner.

OK, so we have little hp available for the acceleration, gobs of grip and lets get on to where the problem of loss of rpm comes from. I guess the easiest way to do it is to move on to something not ideal which causes a conflict between tires for control of direction apex out while accelerating, having limited hp to accelerate. The first is what if too much weight gets moved to the RR apex out.

Back to basic theory first. All tires have a natural way they want to roll and the way they want to roll, for all practical purposes, defines the direction straight. Anytime you need to make a tire roll in a direction other then what I defined as straight, input will be needed. When your slowing down you have stored up momentum to use to force them to go where you want to go. If your slowing down and already loading the axle as needed to make it roll in the direction you want to go, then your saving or maintaining maximum momentum. When accelerating if you don't have the axle loaded to go in the direction you want to go, you don't have stored up momentum to make them go where you want to go, you only have engine hp to do it. Well let's look at what happens if there's too much load moved to the RR. You only need to put enough weight to the RR so it will out accelerate the LR and make you go the direction you want. Now remember the RR even though your using it to out accelerate the LR, it still had a natural direction it wants to go which I defined as straight. Yes your using engine hp to force the RR tire to accelerate around the LR tire, but your only weighting it enough to make it out accelerate the LR. Now if you add more weight to it then is needed it's still going to want to roll in it's natural direction of straight, but because of the added weight it will take more effort to make it not roll straight. The only place to get the extra effort is from your accelerating engine. Put too much weight to the RR apex out and you can loose rpm's apex out, until you get to a point on the track where you are no longer turning as much and you have moved weight off of the RR. I started this thinking only about apex out or from the moment of acceleration out. How easy it is to over load the RR depends on where you start your acceleration and how much turning is being done when your acceleration starts. I think you will instantly relate to things hogging down if you start to accelerate while turning too much. Over loading the RR is not going to be so easy to perceive or tell when your apex off line is not as sharp a turn. You may not even notice any loss of anything. But weather you can tell or not if your putting more weight to the RR apex out or start of acceleration out, then is needed to cause the RR to out accelerate the LR, ... your eating hp and could be faster.

... got to stop and hope to continue on with this later by reading through it and editing it. posting it as is hoping it made some sense ... thanks for reading and any input at all is welcomed.

Tires are going forward, all tires are moving in a forward direction so ill disagree here. Theres a number of factors that could be happening, wrong set up, wrong tires, wrong seat location, just to name a few.
If it was only because tires are fighting for control, then all you have to do is square the kart.
 
Paul, I hope I am understanding what you are saying. I may disagree because of terminology or context of word meaning, so please bear with me…

My chassis setup philosophy appears to be opposite to yours, in that I’d rather have my front end steering the kart rather than the back end. But maybe you’re just focusing on the contribution to steering that the rear can make. Still it is the front end that enters and exits turns first, and the driver controls the front end, so I’d rather think of what it does first and then consider the rear end’s contribution second.

I also don’t like to carry a lot of weight on my LR tire from turn entry through mid-turn – I definitely don’t like to “anchor” my chassis to the LR and force the RR (and the rest of the kart) to rotate around it. That might cause the excess drag that in turn is overloading the engine and causing your bog. I’m not sure how much of a true anchoring you get in the LR since weight is transferring away from it and to your right side tires. Today’s karts may not unload as much as the older karts, but there is still significant weight transfer. From the apex out the LR tire should reload (sit down) and contribute to your forward bite and help get you out of the turn. The driver shouldn’t have to steer very hard because he’s already set the new direction for the kart and just needs to manage completion of that transition.

If you are bogging coming from the apex out I’d wonder if the engine has a fuel delivery problem. Although that’s more likely to happen when using a carburetor with a float rather than the diaphragm pump carburetors most of us are using today. Or it could be a dead spot in the engine’s torque curve – it cannot build power fast enough to accelerate and overcome the load at the same time. If so, changing gearing and / or clutch engagement rpm might be the ticket.

I not sure about your idea that slowing down results in stored momentum. If it was stored then you should be able to get it back, like a spring recoiling, but instead you have a bog (loss of energy). I would expect that while slowing down your momentum isn’t stored – it is transformed into different energy; mainly weight transfer, tire sidewall flex, right side tires digging in, and chassis flex. Those processes consume energy and explain where that momentum went.

If your RF tire is really biting hard enough through the turn to cause a bog then I’d expect the rear end to be loose, maybe even snap loose. Or are you saying that when the LR reloads it is gripping so much that it is taking control of turning the kart? It takes a lot of grip to overcome engine torque. Is this kart following the trajectory your driver wants?
 
"But maybe you’re just focusing on the contribution to steering that the rear can make."

Yes I am focusing on it with my thoughts of what is ideal. I think my reply to the next thing I copied will help show my mind set to you.


"I also don’t like to carry a lot of weight on my LR tire from turn entry through mid-turn – I definitely don’t like to “anchor” my chassis to the LR and force the RR (and the rest of the kart) to rotate around it."

I don't have a problem at all with using the staggered solid axle as you described from turn entry to(not through) mid-turn. It's fine because in my thought process, that's where your doing your slowing down. My thoughts of what's also going on when slowing down is your both turning and traveling up the bank of the track storing energy for acceleration.

With your next thoughts you seem to me to see an advantage of having the LR loaded after mid turn. My critique of that is it takes time to get the LR loaded as needed from mid-turn out, wouldn't it be a wise move to also get the loading done between turn in and mid corner? I'm hoping you'll say, yes it would be good if you also got the loading of the LR done while slowing down to mid corner.

... I answered quickly without reading the rest of your post, I'll go do so now.

paul

I'll read it later, got to head out for Friday fish dinner with my wife. ... :)
 
"If you are bogging coming from the apex out I’d wonder if the engine has a fuel delivery problem. Although that’s more likely to happen when using a carburetor with a float rather than the diaphragm pump carburetors most of us are using today. Or it could be a dead spot in the engine’s torque curve – it cannot build power fast enough to accelerate and overcome the load at the same time. If so, changing gearing and / or clutch engagement rpm might be the ticket."

All true. And in practice the above usually will be combined with lower levels of experience. If I'm correct on it the above will eventually become a non issue. It's the seldom things which generally create on track problems. Multiple issues because of how what your racing is driven and how what you race interacts with the track, will come at you from different directions and from unsure directions.
________________

"If your RF tire is really biting hard enough through the turn to cause a bog then I’d expect the rear end to be loose, maybe even snap loose. Or are you saying that when the LR reloads it is gripping so much that it is taking control of turning the kart? It takes a lot of grip to overcome engine torque. Is this kart following the trajectory your driver wants?"

It does not matter how hard your RF bites so long as it's only duty is to turn the front and the front by itself requires very little effort to turn. The loss of momentum and over working the engine causing it to bog, comes from the RF having to force one or both rear tires to turn. If in the process of forcing the rear tires to turn they become over taxed, sure they will release from the track and snap loose.

I do not see the LR controlling anything. I see it bearing load so it can act as an anchor when slowing allowing the RR to rotate forward around it. And I see it carrying load under acceleration, which is not needed by the RR to out accelerate it while rotating forward. The pattern here is load on the LR facilitates the RR being able to rotate forward ahead of the LR, during both deceleration and acceleration.

How'd I do because I'm never completely sure about anything which is all IMHO and ain't necessairly right anyway. ... :)

thank your for the conversation

paul
 
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Tires are going forward, all tires are moving in a forward direction so ill disagree here. Theres a number of factors that could be happening, wrong set up, wrong tires, wrong seat location, just to name a few.
If it was only because tires are fighting for control, then all you have to do is square the kart.


Earl. Everything you posted above can be what the cause is that is causing one tire to fight for controll over the other tires.

Paul. It seems you are having a much better understanding of how a staggered solid axle and dynamic weight transfer affect each other and the kart. Now that you have the "G's" understood and you now seem to understand that the LR never unloads, it is all about the added g's loading the RR. It all seems to be coming together now. Nice job on post #1 Grasshopper.

If you steer the kart with dynamic weight transfer you will have much less rpm loss from apex out than you will if you actuilly steer the kart to the left with sterring input to the front wheels. A lot less.

When I am instructing a road course class I teach the students to imagine a string being attached from your right hand to your right (gas pedal) foot and now another string attached from your left hand to your right foot. As you turn the steering wheel the string pulls back on the gas pedal and as you turn back out of the corner the string starts to release and you can start to apply gas again. It should be a smooth thing. As you steer in you release the gas pedal and as you steer out you start pressing the gass pedal again.

Just like the sprint karts setups are different to LTO set ups. So are the driving styles. With LTO, I teach that it is like a solid rod is connected from you left hand to the brake pedal (not you foot). The more you turn the steering wheel to the left the more it feels like you are pressing the brakes. So, when you turn the wheel to the left you bind the kart and loss rpm. As you straighten the wheel back to center the rpm's come back up.

If you can get the LTO kart free'ed up enough that the dynamic weight transfer will rotate the kart from apex off you will have the need for very little steering input at all. So you will have very little rpm drop at all.
 
If you can get the LTO kart free'ed up enough that the dynamic weight transfer will rotate the kart from apex off you will have the need for very little steering input at all. So you will have very little rpm drop at all.

I agree Andrew. When I had my kart free rolling the steering input would always be a little to the right by maybe a degree or so. The tighter the kart became the more input to the left that it needed. Tire temps confirmed it.


The way I look at the RR is this. If you load the right rear too soon (too much rear transfer too soon), just before the apex you get a push off the corner. This is a tight kart. The kart starts off good, but gets tighter and tighter as the race goes on. Pit signals: engine heats up, needs extra gear, slow off the corner, right rear fuzzed partially on the inside edge. The easiest to diagnose and fix. Cures: reduce positive left front camber, move left rear out, add rear stagger, more air or a harder tire.

If the right rear loads too late (too much rear transfer too late), just after the apex, the rear end scoots up the track. This is a loose kart. The kart will usually improve as the race goes on. Pit signals: cool engine, RPM’s are fine, kart looks like it is on ice in the corner, tire looks black or slick. This is the best ill handling condition to have. Pretty easy to diagnose and fix. Cures: less air, softer tire, lower rear stagger and move left rear in.

If the right rear stays loaded for too long (receives the right amount of transfer for too long), before and after the apex, it overheats and the rear end gets loose. This is a tight kart. It will start with a slight push off and get looser as the tire goes away. Pit signals: right rear very hot, engine temp is high, low RPM’s, tire will be fuzzed. This is the worst to have and diagnose. Cures: move right rear out (best), higher air, harder tire or add cross.

Mike McCarty
Chassis Manual (Only $17.95)
www.kartcalc.com
 
Moving the LR out moves it further from the CG keeping in loaded more and longer with less weight moving to the RR.

Not true in all cases with all karts.

Mike McCarty
Chassis Manual (Only $17.95)
www.kartcalc.com
 
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