Kart is Pushing Bad in One Corner, Perfect in the Other

K

kartstud98

Member
I ran into a new problem last night a Dumplin Valley. In turns 1 and 2, the kart was perfect and I was able to put the kart anywhere it needed to be and made several passes. However, going into turn 3, the kart was pushing so bad I had to turn the wheel as far left as possible. I tried taking some cross out, decrease left side weight, and lowered the right front air pressure, but it didn't seem to help.

Any suggestions on what other adjustments I can make? I've only ran this track a few times, but never had an issue with it handling well in one turn and bad in the other.
 
It's not uncommon Late in the season with cooler temps for the track to be different on each end, most tracks have a shaded end anyway, That could of been the case the track on that end was lacking grip.
 
racing promotor said:
It's not uncommon Late in the season with cooler temps for the track to be different on each end, most tracks have a shaded end anyway, That could of been the case the track on that end was lacking grip.
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that's good thinking! It hadn't occurred to me when I first read the post.

Another thought came to mind; could it be possible that one end of the track has more groundwater under it? Way out I know. Almost grasping. For sure I like your idea better!

How do you prepare, set up, drive, for such a situation?

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
It would be very possible Al that yes that area just draws more moisture to top.

As far as Set-up I would try to fix push even if I ended up tick loose in other end my driver could better compensate for the little loose, but that's just my thinking.
 
If the kart has the correct numbers in it, it wont push on entry (as long as you have the correct driving line) unless tires are wrong. Fix the tires and your push will more than likely take care of itself.
 
Nose-47.0
Left-56.0
Left front spindle all the way up
Right front spindle all the way down
Right front camber-3 1/2
Left front camber- 0.0
Right front castor- 11.0 pos.
Left front castor-7.0 pos.
Front stagger 1 1/2
Rear stagger 1 1/4

Tires maxxis pinks rights
3/4 ounce lambert blue
3/4 ounce mafia original
Mixed together in a glass container which combined =1 1/2 ounces
Take valve stem out squeeze or push down on tire place a small tube on a small funnel
Then with valve stem to the bottom place funnel on valve stem and pour mix into funnel while relaxing tire
Put valve stem in being careful not to move tire not to splash onto side walls put 10 psi air
Carefully carry to roller and let roll 24 hours do not put anything on the outside

Left rear- straight up nothing on inside

Left front - 1/2 ounce lambert blue and 1/2 mafia original
Roll all tires together at the same time.
Before the bashing starts:
I have been out of karting for a few years. Why?
I am in late model stock cars now, but I have a trophy case full of trophies from karting
And I have been on a lot of different chassis and I can say this though experience.
And have outrun big names in karting on old chassis.
I have come to learn they are all a piece of metal and they all will take the same numbers
Now kart manufactors will not like this post as well as tire guru's that want your money
The only reason I am giving out this secret is I am no longer in this sport after a lot hanging around all the right people. Here is my email just in case someone wants to see if I know what I am talking about.
Wayneshell4@gmail.com
 
What's the deal? Why are you doing this? You're wasting a lot of people's time. I suppose you probably don't care about that! What do you hope to gain by messing with Bob's?

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
 
So what you saying you are the best setup guru around and everyone should listen to you
I have never in my karting ever see you run a race yet you are on here everyday talking setup
What's the deal with you?
 
What I am saying works, why I have race karts all my life
And when people finally take a chance to do this they will see
That the left front wheel is nothing but a training wheel.
Now your confused but until you try this you will never know I what mean by that
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink
No matter what tire you have to run these are the chassis numbers when you win a race this day and time you will be on or close to it. Wanna bet?
 
alvin l nunley said:
What's the deal? Why are you doing this? You're wasting a lot of people's time. I suppose you probably don't care about that! What do you hope to gain by messing with Bob's?

From the desk of Al Nunley
Comments compliments criticisms and questions always welcome.
If the data does not support the theory, get a new theory. (Al Nunley)
Click to expand...

Actually he has every right to post. Just as you do.
 
kartstud98...DVR is a different bird period. Being D shaped you come into #3-4 from the arc of the D and 1-2 is on the smaller end. It is a common thing for that to happen there. Turns 3-4 are near a creek get the creek fog and are shaded. What Wynn said plus what SoCo said is the ticket. At this time of the year low 50 duro and Goat is your friend....I will be there Sat..kart B-7 Brian Giles (2010 track champion ) . It is my home track.
 
Shell Motorsports said:
What I am saying works, why I have race karts all my life
And when people finally take a chance to do this they will see
That the left front wheel is nothing but a training wheel.
Now your confused but until you try this you will never know I what mean by that
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink
No matter what tire you have to run these are the chassis numbers when you win a race this day and time you will be on or close to it. Wanna bet?
Click to expand...

Not saying you dont know what your doing or don't know setup, but if you know anything about karts you can not seriously believe that you can max out the cross like that on just any chassis made no matter what brand, and put the rest of those numbers in it and expect it to work the best no matter what track or tire you are on....that is pretty far fetched to say the least. On some newer chassis, maxing out the spindles like that would put you at 70+ cross, others it might be at 65, which is a substantial spread on something as sensitive as cross. Different chassis also have different spindles and L Blocks, different degrees and KPI, they also flex differently from one chassis to the next, so many different variables here. Also, the tire prep reccomendation you gave may work some days and may put you in the back other days, I'm sure you know this if you have the experience you said you do. If what your saying is the case, then why do we bother carrying 10+ sets of tires to each race, all with different amounts of internal or prepared differently externally? Or why do we adjust the chassis to keep the kart free as the day/night goes on? Why even take scales to the track and spend the time setting them up if those numbers are all thats going to be used? It may have worked like that 10, 15, or 20 years ago when most chassis were relatively close to the same, but I guarantee it won't with todays chassis and tire programs. One driver on a Millenium may have his tires worked completely different than another driver on a Phantom or Kinetik chassis, some like more chemical to get the speed and some like less, it all comes down to chassis, tire brand, track conditions, driving style, and even time of the year/day you are racing, as well as track size and layout.
 
Weddle Racing said:
Not saying you dont know what your doing or don't know setup, but if you know anything about karts you can not seriously believe that you can max out the cross like that on just any chassis made no matter what brand, and put the rest of those numbers in it and expect it to work the best no matter what track or tire you are on....that is pretty far fetched to say the least. On some newer chassis, maxing out the spindles like that would put you at 70+ cross, others it might be at 65, which is a substantial spread on something as sensitive as cross. Different chassis also have different spindles and L Blocks, different degrees and KPI, they also flex differently from one chassis to the next, so many different variables here. Also, the tire prep reccomendation you gave may work some days and may put you in the back other days, I'm sure you know this if you have the experience you said you do. If what your saying is the case, then why do we bother carrying 10+ sets of tires to each race, all with different amounts of internal or prepared differently externally? Or why do we adjust the chassis to keep the kart free as the day/night goes on? Why even take scales to the track and spend the time setting them up if those numbers are all thats going to be used? It may have worked like that 10, 15, or 20 years ago when most chassis were relatively close to the same, but I guarantee it won't with todays chassis and tire programs. One driver on a Millenium may have his tires worked completely different than another driver on a Phantom or Kinetik chassis, some like more chemical to get the speed and some like less, it all comes down to chassis, tire brand, track conditions, driving style, and even time of the year/day you are racing, as well as track size and layout.
Click to expand...

He's not running that much cross. He's actually running about the same cross you say you run on the Impulse. Read other post on other threads.
 
rebsfan4 said:
He's not running that much cross. He's actually running about the same cross you say you run on the Impulse. Read other post on other threads.
Click to expand...

Agreed
If I were gonna question any part, first one would be Nose as far as working on every chassis, there are a bunch of chassis especially little older that only like 45 %.

Al of all people posting how dare you, Now that's Funny !!
 
I'd question the Left side more than anything. I'm 205 pounds, Left side weight is not gonna work the same for me as it would a 140 pound driver. Nose tends to fall in that category as well. I've ran that much cross in a triton, No matter how hard/soft the tires are it eats the RF tire up bad by the time you have enough bite in the tires to make it work. 12-15 laps the RF starts sliding. I did run with the big dogs for a while at the midwest maxx daddy. Runnnig that high of cross.

Also, on a triton with my spindles set at .5/.5, an 1/8th pill in the LR (cross out), 1 3/8 front and 1 1/8 rear stagger i'm over 70% cross. So your numbers arent jiving there either.
 
I don't understand what your trying to say... But i got it figured out the same day. Just had to run less cross at that race track.
 
1.5/1.5 washers was the right answer. Which is the same cross that feller said to run, Just couldn't get there the same way he is.
 
Make sure your king bolt or nut is not hitting the rt front wheel. I had this stupid mistake happen one time when alot of washers got moved around. Was fine on the stand but scraped wheel in corner and drug rt front wheel. Also check bearings in same wheel.
 
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