Key way damage

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Noticed some barely perceptible keyway damage on a blue slide LO206 (it may not even be new). We have run Hilliard, Rocket Rim and now Stinger clutches (inboard). I have always tried to either manually or impact gun the bolt on tight. With no bolt the stinger clutch has a little rotational slop (I can turn the cartridge a few degrees without moving the crank) - is this normal or should it all be tight even with no bolt? I don't want to destroy the crank and I'm not sure if we are doing something wrong. I have been concerned about over torquing so it's possible we undertorqued with the gun -
 
My feeling is it should be barely perceptible .
The bolt should not be relied upon to keep it from rotating .
The fit of the key is the concern .
 
The rev limiter is hard on the keyways. If you race at a track where you need to be on the rev limiter a lot, you will see key damage. To minimize the impact, keep keys fresh and de burr your crankshaft regularly.
 
This is our first season with this style of clutch. We have one straight where we are on the limiter and my kid has gotten faster so he's on the limiter a little longer. I'm hoping a new key will be tighter in the keyway - it looks like the old key is a little beat up.
 
Stinger keys are the worst enemies of your crankshaft. You have to make sure you shim the clutch so its tight on the crankshaft. Any free movement and you will sustain crankshaft damage. Its a really piss poor design with the two piece inner hub shaft and clutch cartridge creating two different pressure points on the clutch key.
 
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Stinger keys are the worst enemies of your crankshaft. You have to make sure you shim the clutch so its tight on the crankshaft. Any free movement and you will sustain crankshaft damage. Its a really piss poor design.
I might go back to the Hilliard. The integrated key seems like it won't wobble around. And now I have an impact driver taking it on and off is not such a big deal.
 
The key issue is one of the things SMC fixed when they made their Rocket Rim clutch, which is not legal now.
 
The key issue is one of the things SMC fixed when they made their Rocket Rim clutch, which is not legal now.
Yes - I really liked the Rocket Rim. $20 more for a clutch that won't destroy a $300 short block made sense to me. Would an oversize key help with the Stinger issues - especially if the keyway has been enlarged a slightly?
 
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The clutch choice is a non issue when the clutches are installed properly and locked onto the shaft
I was second guessing myself but I installed them all correctly. Keyway-wise the Hilliard was fine, the Rocket Rim was fine. The Stinger messed up the keyway (and it was only on for one practice and one race).
 
I was second guessing myself but I installed them all correctly. Keyway-wise the Hilliard was fine, the Rocket Rim was fine. The Stinger messed up the keyway (and it was only on for one practice and one race).


Wait a sec...In your original post, you stated:

"Noticed some barely perceptible keyway damage on a blue slide LO206 (it may not even be new)."

Now you are convinced it is the fault of the clutch that your keyway is "messed up," or is it really "barely perceptible keyway damage?"

Hmmm. I know we all tend to get dramatic at times, but this sounds more and more like crying over spilled milk about this whole clutch rule deal. It just gets old.

Thanks,
Brian Carlson
 
When I went to switch back to the Hilliard (most of the 50 hours we have on the motor have been with a Hilliard) the race would not slide on the crankshaft until I filed a bunch of burrs off the edge of the keyway. I've never had to do this before in dozens of clutch swaps or after going back to the Hilliard after the Rocket Rim. So yes, the keyway was damaged after 2 days with a Stinger. I'm just looking for the best legal option that won't destroy my engine which looks like Hilliard right now. Unlike the kart shops on the board I pay full retail for all my clutches and have and have no conflict of interest or even an appearance of conflict.
 
Run the Hilliard then.

I've got customers winning on both Hilliard and Premier, and nearly ever model of clutch that each makes.
I've got my favorite for sure, but within the rules, you've got several to choose from.
Pick one that makes you happy.
 
What did the Rocket Rim clutch do that was so good for the key way?
I don't know - the Rocket Rim key is square - not 3/16x5/16 (tall key) for the Stinger. I just know the Hilliard race went on easily after the Rocket Rim and the race would not go on at all after the Stinger (without some filing). I don't know if my keyway was just a little beat up and the stinger key just started destroying it - or if maybe a .002 oversized key (if I made one from keystock) would work for the Stinger. The Stinger key+a .0015 feeler fit tight in the keyway. The Stinger was fast - we ran our best lap ever with it.
 
Unlike the kart shops on the board I pay full retail for all my clutches and have and have no conflict of interest or even an appearance of conflict.
What board I would like to volunteer, is there a board that you know of that makes Briggs decisions?
 
I just came up on this thread. It appears I have the same problem. I had bad chatter problems. Some of it may be my fault. My question is should it be mounted tight to the crankshaft. I took if off and changed the springs and now I can't get it back on the key won't go in the keyway . I had set it up with end play which it looks like i wasn't supposed to. Looks like I am going to have to do some filing to get it back on. Just wasn't clear on end play or not. I hope I didn't mess the crankshaft up.
 
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