KT 100 rods

rainman

Member
Anyone can tell me what the number/letter on the Yamaha KT-100 connecting rods mean? I know there are heavy and light rods, but I have seen some with the number 397 and a Q and some with an H.
 
I'm pretty sure that it's an identifier of the forging die used for that particular rod.

If you can ever find one, the "X" rods (from back in the late 70's) were the best of the best, in my opinion. Finding one that isn't worn out would be little running across a unicorn, but you never know!

I believe that the "early" con-rods from Yamaha were made from better material. They are definitely considered "light" rods, but I never had the big-end go out of round on one of those early rods, even in my direct-drive Yamaha that regularly turned 17,000. When Yamaha change the forgings slightly to make the "beefier" looking rod, I believe they used material that was not as good (cost savings?).

To add one other piece of information (that you didn't ask for, haha), shoot for about .0013" clearance on the big end, and .0009"/.0010" on the small end. That seems to be what works best for performance.

PM
 
I'm pretty sure that it's an identifier of the forging die used for that particular rod.

If you can ever find one, the "X" rods (from back in the late 70's) were the best of the best, in my opinion. Finding one that isn't worn out would be little running across a unicorn, but you never know!

I believe that the "early" con-rods from Yamaha were made from better material. They are definitely considered "light" rods, but I never had the big-end go out of round on one of those early rods, even in my direct-drive Yamaha that regularly turned 17,000. When Yamaha change the forgings slightly to make the "beefier" looking rod, I believe they used material that was not as good (cost savings?).

To add one other piece of information (that you didn't ask for, haha), shoot for about .0013" clearance on the big end, and .0009"/.0010" on the small end. That seems to be what works best for performance.

PM
Thanks a lot.
 
Any time rainman!

On the off chance that "best Yamaha cases" might interest you, I've had this article online for... probably 20+ years:

http://www.muller.net/tech/docs/casenum.html
PM

Excellent article. Some of that info makes complete sense for some issues I have experienced with the die cast type. I think I might even have one of the oldest type. Appreciate the info. Do you know anything about the 90s PCR reeds? I have 2 TSL 98s, a 95, a 93 and an older one.
 

Attachments

  • 101910788_10219573592462672_4471643172312711168_n.jpg
    101910788_10219573592462672_4471643172312711168_n.jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 30
  • 101382944_10219573592022661_3861560638627119104_n.jpg
    101382944_10219573592022661_3861560638627119104_n.jpg
    91.7 KB · Views: 30
  • 101166244_10219573592222666_7148717212990177280_n.jpg
    101166244_10219573592222666_7148717212990177280_n.jpg
    87.2 KB · Views: 26
rainman,

I'm sorry, but don't know much about that series of engines. I vaguely recall that I may have blueprinted a few sets of those cases for someone many years ago, but that's the extent of what I can remember.

PM
 
Then I am sure you don't know anything about the one in my avata either, lol. Thanks again for the KT100 info.
 
Back
Top