Left rear tight

J

jc57

Member
Hi everyone, this is my first post on here so bear with me. I have a 99 Rage silencer that i am needing some help with. weights are LF83 RF64 LR123 RR85, 58% left, 41% Front, 53% cross. I run a 350 limit class so i am ok on weight without having to add any. I am 6'2", and around 225lbs. We run a banked short track and i am having a hard time getting the left rear to unload, atleast thats what im thinking. when i go into the corner it wants to push bad. I've tried lowering right front air pressure, increasing rear pressure, but at this point i need a bigger change. I cannot move my motor or seat any more to the right, possibly move seat forward a little, but im really looking for something i can do to the chassis/setup, in order to help with this problem. I am going to look into getting some more stagger by trying to shrink a LR tire. But any pointers on getting the weight off the LR, or any tips in general, im fairly new to the sport? Thanks!
 
We'll see what others have to say but my thinking from reading your post is your on the RR too much not the LR.

Just IMHO now but if your on the LR and can't get off it you will likely/probably be able to turn in but after that it won't want to turn or complete getting you around the turn.

Again just IMHO if it's the RR your on with a ton of weight all the time that's when it just wants to go straight at the end of the straight.

Another thing which I think can make it want to go straight at the end of the straight is chopping off the corner on entry. Chopping off the corner is when you get down low into the corner pointing more straight and you simply can't make it turn enough to get into the corner. Chopping off the corner is about not being able to complete enough of the total turning you must do early on enough in a turn.

And that's all just my thoughts. With your question and what you already gave us i'm sure you'll get help.
I'm sure all would also like to know how much stagger you have now and how much banking, even maybe letting us know the track or maybe a Google Earth so we can see the track. I've found if you look at the track on Google maps/earth many times you can see the line most run. From that you may be able to tell if your running the same line others do on entry? A lot of times new racers sort of force themselves to chop off corners on entry trying to stay out of the way. That's good to get you comfortable with what your sitting on at first but sooner or later you have to take the part of the track which needs taken by all to get around ok.
 
Your to low on nose weight need 44 % Min 45 % would be better, move seat forward and add 5lb to 7lb up front if needed having the kart turn will well out weight the added weight. what are your cambers even if there not adjustable.
 
^^^ My thoughts as well . 41% nose is super low .
53 cross is pretty low as well .
Notch the seat so it can move forward .
More front stagger if your not at 1 1/2" already .
 
paulkish said:
We'll see what others have to say but my thinking from reading your post is your on the RR too much not the LR.

Just IMHO now but if your on the LR and can't get off it you will likely/probably be able to turn in but after that it won't want to turn or complete getting you around the turn.

Again just IMHO if it's the RR your on with a ton of weight all the time that's when it just wants to go straight at the end of the straight.

Another thing which I think can make it want to go straight at the end of the straight is chopping off the corner on entry. Chopping off the corner is when you get down low into the corner pointing more straight and you simply can't make it turn enough to get into the corner. Chopping off the corner is about not being able to complete enough of the total turning you must do early on enough in a turn.

And that's all just my thoughts. With your question and what you already gave us i'm sure you'll get help.
I'm sure all would also like to know how much stagger you have now and how much banking, even maybe letting us know the track or maybe a Google Earth so we can see the track. I've found if you look at the track on Google maps/earth many times you can see the line most run. From that you may be able to tell if your running the same line others do on entry? A lot of times new racers sort of force themselves to chop off corners on entry trying to stay out of the way. That's good to get you comfortable with what your sitting on at first but sooner or later you have to take the part of the track which needs taken by all to get around ok.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help! i am currently at 1 1/4" of stagger on rear and 1 1/2" of stagger on the front. I definently know what you are saying when you say chopping the corner, my problem is more when i go to run the higher groove it does not want to start to turn without me having to jab the brake and start the rotation. If i diamond off the corner i can drive a little smoother and dont have to slow down as much, but i want to be able to drive into the high groove with confidence that front end is going to steer me. the track is brand new this year and is not on google maps yet. but it is very short with the banking in the corner being about 4.5 tall all the way around.
 
I agree with all the guys above, I'm unfamiliar with that chassis but generally your going to have 44-45 nose min, 55-57 left, and 53-56 cross for around that year of chassis. next time your out really try to feel what your karts doing your sitting on the rear tires right now not allowing your kart to transfer weight like it was setup to do.
 
GeneticTireWorks said:
I agree with all the guys above, I'm unfamiliar with that chassis but generally your going to have 44-45 nose min, 55-57 left, and 53-56 cross for around that year of chassis. next time your out really try to feel what your karts doing your sitting on the rear tires right now not allowing your kart to transfer weight like it was setup to do.
Click to expand...
Thanks!

Aside from moving the seat what adjustments can i make to get more front nose weight??
 
On the first page, in the light green corner weights cells, I placed your numbers. In the shaded blue cells at the top, I placed your numbers. They don't match, whether or not very far off, could be from the decimal places.

After charting hundreds of weight post, and understand I have no idea what would be best, your numbers are pretty far off from the norm. "Norm" whatever that is. These are the numbers, maybe somebody could help you with correcting them.
Jcharris_1 8 20 20.jpgJcharris_2 8 20 20.jpg
 
Still no mention of cambers, I assume that's because it's not adjustable, but you still need to check them as If the RF is over 3 for that year chassis that's a problem, we used to have an older shadow not adjustable for camber I would slide an old axle over the spindle shaft and bend it slightly to keep the camber right, 2.5 RF neg and .5 LF pos is close what you need.
 
racing promotor said:
Still no mention of cambers, I assume that's because it's not adjustable, but you still need to check them as If the RF is over 3 for that year chassis that's a problem, we used to have an older shadow not adjustable for camber I would slide an old axle over the spindle shaft and bend it slightly to keep the camber right, 2.5 RF neg and .5 LF pos is close what you need.
Click to expand...

Camber is adjustable by pills. i am runing 2.5 RF neg and .5 Pos on LF as you mentioned.
 
alvin l nunley said:
On the first page, in the light green corner weights cells, I placed your numbers. In the shaded blue cells at the top, I placed your numbers. They don't match, whether or not very far off, could be from the decimal places.

After charting hundreds of weight post, and understand I have no idea what would be best, your numbers are pretty far off from the norm. "Norm" whatever that is. These are the numbers, maybe somebody could help you with correcting them.
View attachment 10818View attachment 10819
Click to expand...

Thanks for that! do you have a "norm" number as to what i need to adjust to?
 
jcharris1991 said:
Thanks for that! do you have a "norm" number as to what i need to adjust to?
Click to expand...
Don't pay any attention to that statement, the only reason your numbers are different from what he's used to seeing is you have such an old chassis, Your numbers are fine to start with the exception of NOSE being way to low your numbers are OK to start, get the nose up eliminate the push then tweak from there.
 
flattop1 said:
^^^ My thoughts as well . 41% nose is super low .
53 cross is pretty low as well .
Notch the seat so it can move forward .
More front stagger if your not at 1 1/2" already .
Click to expand...
I know cross is a confusing thing to look at and usually only fine tuning, but if i were to say make my cross 60% to were my Left is also 60% what would that do to my kart, would going that high in cross make it looser or tighter?
 
jcharris1991 said:
I know cross is a confusing thing to look at and usually only fine tuning, but if i were to say make my cross 60% to were my Left is also 60% what would that do to my kart, would going that high in cross make it looser or tighter?
Click to expand...
Read your title to this post what your thinking is happening, adding cross would only excelerate that, 53% cross is low compared to normal but not for that old of a chassis low cross was common, once you fix the push you might be able to tweak cross slightly but not to 60 % might get as high as your left, and make NO mistake 85 % if not 100 % of your push problem is NOT ENOUGH NOSE WEIGHT !!
 
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