LO 206 spindle size

J

Jim G.

New member
Running LO 206 380lb weight class using 17mm spindles. Articles I have read say the 17mm spindles are used for Cadet and Junior classes mostly.
Therefore, would I be better off changing to the 25mm spindles and or longer front hubs. Kart came with Burris 45mm long hubs. Trying to get rid of kart variables so I can work on driving skill>
Thanks, Jim
 
Engine doesn't mean anything to the spindles. I'd assume sprint racing. Get some and start experimenting. Or just stick with what you have and work with it.
 
Thanks Larry,
The purpose of the post was to get opinions without spending money for trial and error.
Larry, are you using short front hubs or long? The ones that came with my kart are the shortest ones available.
 
Not to hijack the tread but somewhat related....what is the point to going to a 25mm spindle when it's hanging on a 10mm (.390") kingpin? Got to believe there is way more flex going on in the tiny kingpin than the 17mm spindle shaft.??
 
Legend said:
Not to hijack the tread but somewhat related....what is the point to going to a 25mm spindle when it's hanging on a 10mm (.390") kingpin? Got to believe there is way more flex going on in the tiny kingpin than the 17mm spindle shaft.??
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Good question
 
Stick with 17mm. Is there a particular handling thing you’re try to cure? Do you have the baseline sheet from Comet? I don’t stray far from the baseline on my Eagle.
 
Comet Eagle 10mm king pin is the big one and is quite adequate. Also, make sure they give you the right brake disk for your class not the (1/8") thin one.

One problem you might have is with the camber adjusters. The underside of the aluminum hex part has a round step machined into it that lets the adjuster rotate even when tightened. The fix is to machine the step away and let the full hex contact the top of the spindle mount bracket.
 
sundog said:
Comet Eagle 10mm king pin is the big one and is quite adequate. Also, make sure they give you the right brake disk for your class not the (1/8") thin one.

One problem you might have is with the camber adjusters. The underside of the aluminum hex part has a round step machined into it that lets the adjuster rotate even when tightened. The fix is to machine the step away and let the full hex contact the top of the spindle mount bracket.
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Thanks for the info. I will look into the cam adjusters as we have had that problem. As far as the brake disc, the thin one is the one they put on it new and my son has already roasted it. I bought the same for a replacement. Which one should I be using? Also the brake pads hang off the end of the rotor causing a lip to build up as they wear. Is it normal to have the pads hang off like that? Last year was our first year in karting so we both have a lot to learn. I've always worked on race cars with shocks and springs so it's been a challenge.
 
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fatboy1dh said:
Stick with 17mm. Is there a particular handling thing you’re try to cure? Do you have the baseline sheet from Comet? I don’t stray far from the baseline on my Eagle.
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Just trying to learn. I read that the heavier classes used the 25mm spindles, so I wasn't sure if what we had was correct.
Also trying to decide if we need to go to a 50mm rear axle. Several teams at NCMP were going to them as the season progressed.
Not sure it's worth giving up the ability to adjust the rear track width. And yes I have the baseline sheet from Comet.
Also having to replace the front hubs (the small Burris hubs) as they have worn also. The bearings fall out of the hub and spin within the hubs.
 
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Hey Jim,
Give me a call at Comet tomorrow and I can give you some guidance on your questions/concerns.

Gary Lawson
 
Had the same brake problem on my customer's (Eagle) kart. First you want the 3/16" thick MCP rotor. It's a little bigger in diameter too. You will need a 1/16" spacer that Comet sells to go in between the caliper halves.

The rotor should engage the whole brake pad. There are adjustment holes drilled in the caliper mounting bracket and they usually don't line up with anything. The fix is to take a rat tail file and drift the holes to where you need them. Next you need a thick grade 8 SAE flat washer under the head of each caliper mounting bolt to bridge across the crappy mounting holes. Even if you don't file the holes you need the thicker washer because you're still bridging a slot. With the washers and the spacer, you may have to use safety wire on the nut side instead of a cotter pin on the castle nuts. Since your brake pads have a step in them, you'll need new pads.

Now the bolts that hold the disk onto the hub were only grade 5, metric thread, not drilled for cotter keys and they have no shank. I replace mine with grade 8 hex head 5/16- 24 with 1/2" shank and all 4 are drilled for a 3/32" cotter pin. The nuts are all metal grade 8 crimp nuts.

The clevis pins on the brake rod have no washer under the tiny cotter pin. This is prone to fail, and the pin will fall out. Seen it more than twice and it usually involves a helicopter ride. You need longer clevis pins that use 3/32" cotter pins and are long enough to have a washer between the cotter pin and the clevis fork. I use a 1/4" grade 8 hex head bolt with a long shank to make mine. Also please keep the legs of your cotter pins short (1/4"). I see too many long straggly cotter pins that just vibrate and snap off leaving you with no brakes.

Hope that helps,
Sundog
 
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