Lo206 clutch..

J

J par

Member
How do I know if my current clutch is good or going bad or needing replaced? And what is the best clutch? And why??
Thank you for everybody's help an experience...
I just looked this up and all I seen was talk about brands and installation...
 
Ha ha if it's red hot it's going out .
What type drum or disc .
If it's reving up and going not as fast as normal or revs up in a slow turn .
They usually last pretty good .
The bearing needs a dab of grease now and then. Lightly .
 
flattop1 said:
Ha ha if it's red hot it's going out .
What type drum or disc .
If it's reving up and going not as fast as normal or revs up in a slow turn .
They usually last pretty good .
The bearing needs a dab of grease now and then. Lightly .
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Thank you! I do have a couple things from drag racing I can use. So far I've used tire pressure gauge. I can bring my infrared heat gun and check the actual temperature...??..
Mostly asking because I don't see it lasting forever but maybe...
it seems like I hear some rattling noise and I assume that's where it's coming from..
It's certainly not a whole shot machine LOL off the start but does seem to grab and not let go once moving..
I guess I just don't have a lot of gauge between what's good and what's bad and when it's bad what to get. I did count the teeth and it is 16...
 
Watch your rpm at take off . Hopefully it in the 26-3200 range . When that starts changing it it's time for new shoes or replacement .
The shoe clutch's can make a little more noise then the disc .
Watching the temp could be good idea .
 
flattop1 said:
Watch your rpm at take off . Hopefully it in the 26-3200 range . When that starts changing it it's time for new shoes or replacement .
The shoe clutch's can make a little more noise then the disc .
Watching the temp could be good idea .
Click to expand...
I know when I have the wheels off the ground on the stand it connects right at 29 to 3K...
 
J par-- the question was asked if you have a disc clutch or a drum clutch. I can tell you what to look for on a Max-Torque but I will let the others tell you on their own clutch what to look for to determine when you need to replace things. A clutch can only transfer horsepower from the engine to the axle, it cannot generate any horsepower. Tell what kind of clutch you have would certainly help.
 
Jim Donovan said:
J par-- the question was asked if you have a disc clutch or a drum clutch. I can tell you what to look for on a Max-Torque but I will let the others tell you on their own clutch what to look for to determine when you need to replace things. A clutch can only transfer horsepower from the engine to the axle, it cannot generate any horsepower. Tell what kind of clutch you have would certainly help.
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I think it's a "stinger"?.. I have changed my drive gear and cleaned it.. I'm am aware a clutch cannot generate horsepower, but I was only concerned about loosing it... After some testing and seat time I'm confident it's just fine.. I'll likely just stick with what I have until I get a new WF motor and a new class spec clutch.. thank you for your input on the subject....
 
You don't get horsepower to the rear axle, you get torque. Horsepower is a calculation, it's how much power (torque) in a given amount of time.
Torque X RPM / 5252.1 = HP.
It can be calculated at the engine or at the axle. When the clutch is slipping, the HP is different at both.
You always want the clutch to slip (stall) at the engines peak torque RPM. Like on the starts. In Sprint racing when coming out of a tight corner.
 
When your clutch becomes inconsistent on engagement rpm, then it's time to rebuild or replace.
Regular maintenance goes a long way.
Heat hurts clutches and should be avoided. Heat in a clutch also robs power (because it's the result of it slipping away.)

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🏁Thanks and God bless,
Brian Carlson
Carlson Racing Engines
Vector Cutz
www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
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31 years of service to the karting industry
Linden, IN
765-339-4407
bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com
 
CarlsonMotorsports said:
When your clutch becomes inconsistent on engagement rpm, then it's time to rebuild or replace.
Regular maintenance goes a long way.
Heat hurts clutches and should be avoided. Heat in a clutch also robs power (because it's the result of it slipping away.)

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Click to expand...
It takes power to produce heat. The more heat that is produced in the clutch, the less power goes to the rear wheels. It really is just that simple!
 
On the Stinger Clutch just sand the shoes to get the glaze off them and well as the drum. Rust in a clutch is "ok" it improves the coefficient of friction but will only be there a short time. The heart of a clutch is the spring or springs. When they are going bad your engagement will be coming in sooner and sooner because they have become annealed by the heat from slipping. All clutches will have some slippage, there is no getting around this. Music wire doesn't take as much heat as a stainless steel spring, in fact stainless will take twice the heat compare to music wire springs. When a single garter spring style clutch has blued shoes all the way through the shoe the spring will be shot. The easy way to tell is when you take the clutch apart if the spring stays in a "U" shape it is bad and needs replacement.

Watch when you lube your chain and watch what you put on the chain. Any lube that has Teflon or silicone in it are clutch killers and they will make the clutch slip excessively and clutches do not like heat. Lube your chain when you are done racing for the day to give the lube time to penetrate to the pins. Lubing the chain just before you go out on the track is a waste of time and lube. It is gone the minute you accelerate.
 
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